Switchback Install

[Longstone]

I've read the threads on the boards concerning the switchback install. I have all of the parts, specifically the GM sockets.

There is mention in two of the threads that a little dremeling will need to be done. Not a problem I have my dremel tool ready, but nothing specific as to what actually needs to be done. Perhaps it's something with the socket? Maybe I just missed the specifics when I read?

Can someone provide the details for me or a link with the details? My switchbacks will be in today and I'd like to get them install this weekend.

 

[riccoh]

If you are going to use the GM sockets, there is a small issue with fitting the bulb. You will need to:
1. try to match and insert the bulb into the socket. you will see there are to prongs that locks the bulb in the socket( one next to the base of the bulb and one 180Deg out close to the middle of the base of the socket.
2. most likely you will need to make the bottom hole on the socket a little longer so that the bulb locks inplace.
the rest is easy if you follow the tutorials here... great mod.

 

[Strife]

Yeah basically try the socket into the light housing. It won't fit,but you will see where you need to cut away at the housing so the tabs on the socket will be able slide in. simple Razor type knife(utility knife etc..) is all the is needed. Dremel will make hot specs you will only have to try to wash out from the housing. Socket should slide in and then twist. Also I used some foam washer between the socket and housing. Made it from the foam you get from Blank DVD cases that they use to help with packing.

Now once you have that done take the GM socket and try the bulb in it. Don't force it. some aftermarket GM sockets will require shaving the top of the socket so the LED bulb will be able to slide all the way in. If you use knife here careful not to cut yourself. Cut away from your hand not towards when holding it. Be surprised how many people cut stuff wrong way with a knife.

Not a very hard thing to do at all. Just take your time.

 

[Longstone]

Awesome, got the sockets ready for the bulb. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[Longstone]

Another question if I may. I have everything hooked up following the threads on the board. I think I got them all right. The running lights are correct and all, only problem is when I engage the blinker they don't blink. Just solid amber.

Anyone got ideas?

 

[riccoh]

that is because the factory relay can't handle the LED's you will need a EP-35 LED Relay. I had the same problem and that fixed it. check the TURN SIGNAL LED RELAY MOD, very good tutorial to fix that problem. that relay is in about every parts store (but NAPA has it for 12.99 whe others go as far as 34.99 for the same part. good luck.

 

[Longstone]

Already got me an EP-35. Didn't know it had to go first. I was so excited about the switchbacks I wanted to do them first.

 

[CWCobra]

I had more trouble getting the bulbs to fit into the sockets than anything else. Sockets were too deep for the bulbs. I used my pocket knife to carve away excess plastic from around the top of the socket, so that the bulbs could seat. Everything else was VERY easy.

CW

 

[Longstone]

Sockets are good to go. Since I have to have the EP-35 installed prior to finishing the switchback install I've turned my attention to it.

I'm having problems but GixerHP is working with me on them. So far, even with the relay hooked up and without the nose section connected I tested the relay install with my rear blinker lights. No blinking at all. Don't come on don't do anything. If I turn my hazards on they flash once, I hear the ep-35 click but when they turn off, they never come back on. With the hazards still on Looks like the amber lights are on and very, very dim, no blinking or nothing.

So that's my problem so far. Once the EP-35 is finished I can plug in the nose section and enjoy the switchbacks. Until I work through the EP-35 install issues my bike is parked

Going to pick up a new relay just in case that's the problem.

 

[Longstone]

I replaced the EP-35 today, thinking that it may be bad. This is where I'm at now. Anyone able to provide some feedback on this scenario?

- EP-35 Install[/url]

I'm about to just back everything out. My bike has been down for a few days now with this, and I'm itching to ride.

Thanks for the help.

 

[mallardg500]

You probably be better of getting PentaStar from Signal Dynamics and if budget is an issue you get get refurb unit at </title> <base target="contents"> <p align="center"><a href="../../index.htm" target="_top"><img border="0" src="../../images/content_2007/sdc_tab.jpg"></a><a href="../../products.htm" target="_top"><img border="0" src="../../images/content_2007/prod for $60.00 + $5 shipping and you will have stock flashing rate, self-cancelation signal, and modified braking light from turn signal. Few other modification required to convert your signal and hazard switches into a momentary switch. I simply inserted industrial grade foam into the signal housing which will reverse back the switch when you turn it on.

Check it out (I have posted this before). I know it's probably a bit late for this in your situation:

 

[Longstone]

Not sure how I missed your post mallardg500, I've combed these boards looking for a solution. I really appreciate that, I'm going to look into it.

 

[riccoh]

looking at your vid, I see you have the (appears to me) mototek tail, EP-35 Is designed for 2-4 lights, with your tail lighs that makes it 6, things to look for;
1. how are you tail lights hooked up (series or parrarel), I too have a mototeck underail and i re-did my tail lights in series,
2. you have no problem with the hazards, I would suggest to check continuity on your wiring for the front turn signals, you mighe even have blown the fuse,
3. Since everything is working at the correct flash rate in the hazard mode, if the relay was to go out, trust me you would have nothing ( ant it will definately smell burnt) .
4. take a closer look at your connections, that is whiy I hate wire splitters and and aluminum connectors, i tend to stick to soldering all my conections, heat shrink, tape and heat shrink again as I spend I lot of time ridding in the rain.
5. recheck both of your LED switchbacks with a 9V battery, this will tell you if the lights are still good.

I know that by now this all seems way to much but take a step back and don't double guess anything, double check everything (slowly), you will most likely find that probably
the wire spliter you have for the gound didn't cut the insulation properly and that is why you see a dim light. and no flash.....

 

[Longstone]

Thanks riccoh.

I've checked the fuses, and the switchbacks and everything looks good.

I'm not sure what you meant by parallel or in series for the undertail lights.

I've attached a picture of the wiring for the undertail. The black and white are the blinkers. I think they're just spliced into the cable, which i guess would be in parallel.

How would I wire them in series?

 

[riccoh]

Here is how i wired my mototeck with the lights that came with, the tail lights do have a small turn signal in but are not LED's and the turnsignals are. maybe this will help

 

[SSP13R]

dig the self canceller.

 

[heartlessbusa]

I am having a problem similar to Longstone. Everything hooked up e-35 installed. Lights up but does not blink. Rear turnsignals do work. Front solid amber fuses are good. I'm baffled.

 

[thebbbusa]

Are you guys sure you have the GM connectors hooked up right? A solid indicator usually means a bulb is out. So I would say either the bulb in the front isn't right, or if it is right, then like said above, it's not reading enough current, and think's its out. Try getting a dual filament halogen bulb (regular dual filament blinker bulb, non LED) and see what happens...that will tell you if it is merely a loading issue.

 

[alglag412]

???

 

[CWCobra]

Check for positive/ground reversed polarity by mistake?

CW