Teach Me H.I.D

SpeedAdict

Gabe
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So I relly want to make the switch over to H.I.D and I was hoping that someone can educate me on the difference between kits. I am more than happy to go to the site sponsor and purchase a hi and low beam kit for the 250.00? the website advertises, but then I look on ebay and there are hi and low beam kits with slim ballasts for 150.00 all over the place. With all do respect avid .org readers I am not looking for "you get what you pay for replys" I would just like to know what makes a H.I.D kit "good" because I know nothing about them. I just need some educating, so as I am doing my reasearch here I can justify to myself that going with board sponsors is the only choice because it is the quality product. I will be using this product daily so I want quality, but I have a very tight budget (due to baby priorities) so I need to shop wisely. I hope I am not stepping on toes here and I appreciate any input people can give me. I am looking for the brightest possible projected light to give me the most outward visability and so far that is looking at bulb temps 4500 - 5000k, best as I can tell. Thanks again guys.
 
I can't tell you the differences myself, but I can tell you the Xenonking kits are simply amazing!!! They are easy to deal with, have a group buy going, and you get the products lightning fast!

Good Luck whatever route you go!!!!!
 
I can tell you that if you get the low beam there's no reason to get the high beam unless you just want to spend money. The low beam is really all you because once you put it on it's going to be so bright that you want need the high beam. I purchase the 6K from our sponsor Xenonking. Once you get the kit just go to search and you'll find how to put the on plus you are going to have to modify the way you hold it in place and you can find that on here as well. Good Luck
 
I have no factual data...but I think it comes down to how long the ballasts/bulbs last...and the service after the sale.

Maybe someone who bought one of the $150 kits will chime in...but if they spent that $$ and it lasted 3 months....they may not want to claim shafted.
 
I have no factual data...but I think it comes down to how long the ballasts/bulbs last...and the service after the sale.

Maybe someone who bought one of the $150 kits will chime in...but if they spent that $$ and it lasted 3 months....they may not want to claim shafted.

Doeyone know how long the balasts and bulbs typically last in H.I.D kit?

coreywiley thanks for the advice and I would have headed it if I still lived in a city, but 90% of my driving is through cow country and I need so see them critters as soon as possible. If I can make it look like daylight around me that is kind of what I am going for.
 
I bought a set for $143 shipped, high and low beams, they also came with a 2 year guarantee on the ballast and bulbs!:beerchug:
 
This will be the 3rd Summer for my McCollough's.

My kit went through this crash and worked perfect when I put the HID in the new nose. Had it for two years now and still going strong. In my opinion it is the best $ you can spend on a busa.

IMG00276.jpg
 
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I went an even cheaper route (StarRotors.com) on my slims, 6k low and 10k high. Complete plug-n-play. (I missed a group buy awhile back) two seasons and counting. No warranty, but like a 30day. No problems to date. Slims are the only way to go IMO, endless mounting possibilities. For the money, I figured, if they were junk, I'd buy a "real" set from the King.
I know where your coming from on them back country roads, I'm smack dab in the middle also. Can spot a deer/goat fixin' to jump a fence 3 blocks away. Best mod you'll ever do.
good luck

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dude Xenonking is the way to go i just installed my kit from them 8k and 6k and i love it wasnt bad on price i think it was 180 deff would look into his kits.
 
i bought a set for 60 bucks BRAND NEW FROM A DUDE ON EBAY THAT SELLS A TON OF HID's and to this day im SO HAPPY WITH THEM i went the 8k high and low 4 months and THEY STILL WORk..
 
most HID bulbs last about 3000-4000 hours.. and usually the price differences in kits are usually the ballasts. I never go cheap when it comes to HIDs and bulbs.
 
you don't want to go with the 4300 on the low beam as it is the same color as the sun...if you are riding with the sun at your back, oncoming traffic will not see your headlight...i went with the 6000 low beam which is slightly bluish to attract the attention of other drivers and the 4300 high beam for maximum lighting at night when riding in the country...it has made all the difference :beerchug:

HID info

Colors:
Color is important, 4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".

3000K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light. 3000K emits GOLDEN YELLOW color and offers superior penetration power during adverse weather epically in dense fog. The applications of the 3000K kit aim more towards secondary lighting apparatus such as high beam and fog lights. The 3000K capsule is actually a 5000K capsule specially coated with a film that filters out all the wave length except the range of wave length which emits yellow.

4300K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and is the color temperature with the most output. The light appears fairly white, and has light yellowish hue when reflected off the road identical to the OEM HID equipped vehicles. This color is for customers who is looking for pure performance white improving the looks of their headlight. It is idea for customers who does a lot of back road or canyon driving and need the optimal visibility.

6000K has an approximately 2800lm output, which is 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 5000K. Although it has a bit lesser light output, it emits pure whiter light with very slight and barely noticeable tint of blue.

8000K has an approximately 2550lm output, which is about 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 6000K. While it has a bit lesser light output, it emits bluer light than the 6000K.

Power consumption:
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb. They are the perfect option for bikes with weak generators that need more light. Using higher wattage halogens will not equal the power these produce, and higher wattage halogens produce alot of glare and light scatter.
Legality:
HID conversions are not technically legal in the US, but neither is speeding, or using "race only" pipes on a bike, so take that into consideration when making your purchase.

Will they blind other drivers?
If properly installed and aimed they will not. Actually I have been flashed less since installing and properly aiming them than I did with the stock bulbs. The only time I was flashed was on a turn when it pointed the light directly at an oncoming car. With the stocks lights I had to raise the beam slightly for better vision, with the HIDs I use factory spec settings. Remember, it is imperative to properly aim your lights, as the output is much more than stock.

What separates genuine Xenon gas-filled Bulbs from Xenon HID?
HID (High Intensity Discharge) is the technology in which the filament of the Halogen Bulb is replaced with Xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas generates an arc of light. The Xenon gas generates 3x more light than standard halogen Bulbs. Most companies do produce gas-filled halogen Bulbs. These Bulbs do consist of a filament, but the gas gives off a bluer color. The negative part of xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.

How long will the Bulbs last?
An average of 2500 hours is normal from bulb testing. But, most will outlast your ownership of the bike you install them on.... Hope this helps!

Oh yea the Busa
H7 low beam..
9005 High beam..

1st pic: low beam
2nd pic: high beam

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wm_normal_eureka-2008_027_001.jpg
 
Xenonking or hit up Gixxerhp, both will take extremely good care of you. Nice write up Semi!
 
Headlamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

HID (xenon) light sources

Xenon projector low beam headlamp illuminated on a Lincoln MKS.HID stands for high-intensity discharge, a technical term for the electric arc that produces the light. The high intensity of the arc comes from metallic salts that are vapourised within the arc chamber. These lamps are formally known as gas-discharge burners, and produce more light for a given level of power consumption than ordinary tungsten and tungsten-halogen bulbs. Because of the increased amounts of light available from HID burners relative to halogen bulbs, HID headlamps producing a given beam pattern can be made smaller than halogen headlamps producing a comparable beam pattern. Alternatively, the larger size can be retained, in which case the xenon headlamp can produce a more robust beam pattern.

Automotive HID lamps are commonly called 'xenon headlamps', though they are actually metal halide lamps that contain xenon gas. The xenon gas allows the lamps to produce minimally adequate light immediately upon powerup, and accelerates the lamps' run-up time. If argon were used instead, as is commonly done in street lights and other stationary metal halide lamp applications, it would take several minutes for the lamps to reach their full output. The light from HID headlamps has a distinct bluish tint when compared with tungsten-filament headlamps.


History
Xenon headlamps were introduced in 1991 as an option on the BMW 7-series. This first system used an unshielded, non-replaceable burner designated D1 — a designation that would be recycled years later for a wholly different type of burner. The AC ballast was about the size of a building brick. The first American-made effort at HID headlamps was on the 1996-98 Lincoln Mark VIII, which used reflector headlamps with an unmasked, integral-ignitor burner made by Sylvania and designated Type 9500. This was the only system to operate on DC; reliability proved inferior to the AC systems. The Type 9500 system was not used on any other models, and was discontinued after Osram's takeover of Sylvania. All HID headlamps worldwide presently use the standardised AC-operated bulbs and ballasts.


Burner and ballast operation
HID headlamp bulbs do not run on low-voltage DC current, so they require a ballast with either an internal or external ignitor. The ignitor is integrated into the bulb in D1 and D3 systems, and is either a separate unit or integral with the electronic ballast in D2 and D4 systems. The ballast controls the current to the bulb. The ignition and ballast operation proceeds in three stages:

Ignition: a high voltage pulse is used to produce a spark — in a manner similar to a spark plug – which ionises the Xenon gas, creating a conducting tunnel between the tungsten electrodes. In this tunnel, the electrical resistance is reduced and current flows between the electrodes.
Initial phase: the bulb is driven with controlled overload. Because the arc is operated at high power, the temperature in the capsule rises quickly. The metallic salts vapourise, and the arc is intensified and made spectrally more complete. The resistance between the electrodes also falls; the electronic ballast control gear registers this and automatically switches to continuous operation.
Continuous operation: all metal salts are in the vapour phase, the arc has attained its stable shape, and the luminous efficacy has attained its nominal value. The ballast now supplies stable electrical power so the arc will not flicker.
Stable operating voltage is 85 volts AC in D1 and D2 systems, 42 volts AC in D3 and D4 systems. The frequency of the square-wave alternating current is typically 400 hertz or higher.


Burner types
HID headlamp burners produce between 2,800 and 3,500 lumens from between 35 and 38 watts of electrical power, while halogen filament headlamp bulbs produce between 700 and 2,100 lumens from between 40 and 72 watts at 12.8 V [15][16][17].

Current-production burner categories are D1S, D1R, D2S, D2R, D3S, D3R, D4S, and D4R. The D stands for discharge, and the number is the type designator. The final letter describes the outer shield. The arc within an HID headlamp bulb generates considerable short-wave ultraviolet (UV) light, but none of it escapes the bulb, for a UV-absorbing hard glass shield is incorporated around the bulb's arc tube. This is important to prevent degradation of UV-sensitive components and materials in headlamps, such as polycarbonate lenses and reflector hardcoats. "S" burners — D1S, D2S, D3S, and D4S — have a plain glass shield and are primarily used in projector-type optics. "R" burners — D1R, D2R, D3R, and D4R — are designed for use in reflector-type headlamp optics. They have an opaque mask covering specific portions of the shield, which facilitates the optical creation of the light/dark boundary (cutoff) near the top of a low-beam light distribution. Automotive HID burners do emit considerable near-UV light, despite the shield.


Color
The correlated color temperature of HID headlamp bulbs, at between 4100 K and 4400 K, is often described in marketing literature as being closer to the 6500 K of sunlight compared with tungsten-halogen bulbs at 3000 K to 3550 K. Nevertheless, HID headlamps' light output is not similar to daylight. The spectral power distribution (SPD) of an automotive HID headlamp is discontinuous, while the SPD of a filament lamp, like that of the sun, is a continuous curve. Moreover, the colour rendering index (CRI) of tungsten-halogen headlamps (≥0.98) is much closer than that of HID headlamps (~0.75) to standardised sunlight (1.00). Studies have shown no significant safety effect of this degree of CRI variation in headlighting.[citation needed]


Advantages

[edit] Increased safety
The HID headlamp light sources (bulbs) offer substantially greater luminance and luminous flux than halogen bulbs — about 3000 lumens and 90 mcd/m2 versus 1400 lumens and 30 mcd/m2. If the higher-output HID light source is used in a well-engineered headlamp optic, the driver gets more usable light. Studies have demonstrated drivers react faster and more accurately to roadway obstacles with good HID headlamps rather than halogen ones.[18] Hence, good HID headlamps contribute to driving safety.[19]


Efficacy and output
HID burners produce more light from less power than halogen bulbs. The highest-intensity halogen headlamp bulbs, H9 and HIR1, produce 2100 to 2530 lumens from approximately 70 watts at 13.2 volts. A D2S HID burner produces 3200 lumens from approximately 42 watts during stable operation.[15]. The reduced power consumption means less fuel consumption, with resultant less CO2 emission per vehicle fitted with HID lighting (1.3 g/km assuming that 30% of engine running time is with the lights on).


Longevity
The average service life of an HID lamp is 2000 hours, compared to between 450 and 1000 hours for a halogen lamp[20].


Disadvantages

Glare
Vehicles equipped with HID headlamps are required by ECE regulation 48 also to be equipped with headlamp lens cleaning systems and automatic beam levelling control. Both of these measures are intended to reduce the tendency for high-output headlamps to cause high levels of glare to other road users. In North America, ECE R48 does not apply and while lens cleaners and beam levellers are permitted, they are not required; [21] HID headlamps are markedly less prevalent in the US, where they have produced significant glare complaints.[22] Scientific study of headlamp glare has shown that for any given intensity level, the light from HID headlamps is 40% more glaring than the light from tungsten-halogen headlamps.[23]


Mercury content
HID headlamp bulb types D1R, D1S, D2R, D2S and 9500 contain the toxic heavy metal mercury. The disposal of mercury-containing vehicle parts is increasingly regulated throughout the world, for example under US EPA regulations. Newer HID bulb designs D3R, D3S, D4R, and D4S which are in production since 2004 contain no mercury[24] [25], but are not electrically or physically compatible with headlamps designed for previous bulb types.


Lack of backward-compatibility
The arc light source in an HID headlamp is fundamentally different in size, shape, orientation, and luminosity distribution compared to the filament light source used in tungsten-halogen headlamps. For that reason, HID-specific optics are used to collect and distribute the light. HID burners cannot effectively or safely be installed in optics designed to take filament bulbs; doing so results in improperly-focused beam patterns and excessive glare, and is therefore illegal in almost all countries.[26]


Cost
HID headlamps are significantly more costly to produce, install, purchase, and repair. The extra cost of the HID lights may exceed the fuel cost savings through their reduced power consumption, though some of this cost disadvantage is offset by the longer lifespan of the HID burner relative to halogen bulbs.

Also running XenonKing HID's in ALL my vehicles... Bike has had them for five or so years and never one problem!
 
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Xenonking or hit up Gixxerhp, both will take extremely good care of you. Nice write up Semi!

thanks but i didn't write it, i copied it from somewhere...i think ks-waterbug was the first to post it up...he's also the one i turned to with questions when considering getting my HID's :bowdown:
 
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