The clutch won't hold!

Hit Man

Registered
I have 23k miles on my busa now and the original clutch is slipping under boost. It has seen everything from wheelies down the blocks to 3 years of street and strip recing.I admit these bikes have the strongest clutches that I have ever seen. I have the clutch mod and mps HD springs. The bike is ridden at least 6 days a week. I'm planning on installing fresh plates soon, I think that I'll shim the springs this time and add a slave support. How much should I shim the springs? The bike Dynoed 277 hp @ 10#s of boost last year now its pushing 13#s. How much power can the clutch hold before a lockup is needed.
 
I really don't want a lock up because it's a street bike that's used daily. The cost of a lock up and clutch cover combined with the tuning of the engagement is more than I want to deal with. I would rather turn the boost down than go through another tuning curve.
 
I really don't want a lock up because it's a street bike that's used daily. The cost of a lock up and clutch cover combined with the tuning of the engagement is more than I want to deal with. I would rather turn the boost down than go through another tuning curve.
A two stage acts like a stock clutch under low RPM and applys pressure as RPM rise used on the street everyday everywhere. A multi-stage would present some issues on the street. I have a 315HP NOS bike works great on the street.
 
install a new clutch...measure the stack correctly and install, heavy duty springs and a hd sprocket cover....all will be good.

and if you are referring to a to the torque limiter as a "clutch mod"....most guys dump a welded hub once going turbo.

I've ran over 300 hp on a perfectly stock clutch already.
 
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install a new clutch...measure the stack correctly and install, heavy duty springs and a hd sprocket cover....all will be good.

and if you are referring to a to the torque limiter as a "clutch mod"....most guys dump a welded hub once going turbo.

I've ran over 300 hp on a perfectly stock clutch already.



Once again, i couldnt agree more.
 
Thanks for the input guys.I think I'll take suzuki4life's advice. I weld for a living, so the welded clutch modification was my choice of mod. Who makes the hd sprocket cover, and has anyone tried shimming the mps or ape springs?
 
As S4L stated... most get rid of the welded mod if they go boost because it usually has a tendancy to slip more.

No need to go to a lockup on the street... There are guys pushing upper 400hp and running the stock clutch with HD springs.

billet sprocket covers

Sprocket Cover, Billet, Hydraulic, Suzuki Hayabusa * Schnitz Motorsports Incc


I recommend againist using one piece billet covers...I prefer these.

KSR-1003 Sprocket Cover, Billet, Hydraulic, Suzuki Hayabusa - KSR $219.9
 
Are you saying that the stocker can be launched at 7500+ rpms and live? The popping sound is nornal with a stock motor when you launch it hard, is the "Brock clutch mod" and all of these tuner's theories on billet back tourque limiters a sham.
 
Are you saying that the stocker can be launched at 7500+ rpms and live? The popping sound is nornal with a stock motor when you launch it hard, is the "Brock clutch mod" and all of these tuner's theories on billet back tourque limiters a sham.



I won't venture a guess as to why...but proven results are as stated...add the power of a turbo and the clutch mods tend to cause the clutch to slip and burn.

Its your bike...so its your call.

Yes the popping is normal.

If drag racing is the higher priority...then spend the cash on the 2 step or a boost assisted unit from NLR.
 
Lock up clutch is for dragracing.
i had a lock up for my street bike and loved it
didnt have to worry about straining my hands (when you have carpel tunnel youll see why ;) )
so this comment id have to disagree with
and took me a total of 30 minutes to set it and go
heck i loved it so much i hated to sell it when i decided to build a race bike
 
i had a lock up for my street bike and loved it
didnt have to worry about straining my hands (when you have carpel tunnel youll see why ;) )
so this comment id have to disagree with
and took me a total of 30 minutes to set it and go
heck i loved it so much i hated to sell it when i decided to build a race bike

All depends on the type of riding you do. Riding in twisty's, this is NOT the clutch to go with. But then again, most are just the typical tuff guy on a straightaway. Anyone can do that! Real riding requires a slipper.... Do you actually think that GP racers use a lock up?
 
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All depends on the type of riding you do. Riding in twisty's, this is NOT the clutch to go with. But then again, most are just the typical tuff guy on a straightaway. Anyone can do that! Real riding requires a slipper.... Do you actually think that GP racers use a lock up?
well most gp dont have 300+ hp
for big hp bikes id not go with anything but a 2 stage lock up

but 2 different worlds
i street rode mine a lot and had mild curves and such but at 66" i never railed it
but i will still stick with my thoughts on this as for the HP he is looking at the welded mod wont hold
 
Well then, he is looking for the best of both worlds! 300 HP is not a bike to ride in the corners. It is a straightaway bike Chris. In that case, I agree with you Sir...
 
well most gp dont have 300+ hp
for big hp bikes id not go with anything but a 2 stage lock up

but 2 different worlds
i street rode mine a lot and had mild curves and such but at 66" i never railed it
but i will still stick with my thoughts on this as for the HP he is looking at the welded mod wont hold


well for super high hp I would go with a single stage lock up.

btw 300 hp is not high hp in the busa world IMHO.


and yes you can rail a 300 hp capable bike.
 
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