Time for an introduction

G

GIXXER1300

Registered
Hey Guys, I've been lurking on the forums for a while now. I got my first Hayabusa for a real good deal back in August and immediately tore into and began modifying it. I've got something of a build thread on the bike's Instagram @Thixxer_ if you guys want to check it out. So far, I've done aluminum front and rear subframes (rear converted to GSX-R 1000), poly cush drive bushings, Shorai Li-Ion battery, VooDoo Shoty 4-2-1 exhaust, AEM 320LPH E85 fuel pump, WWB ceramic wheel bearings, All balls tapered steering bearings, EBC HH pads, speed bleeders, Vortex 44T rear sprocket, Supersprox 17T front sprocket, EK ZVX3 530 chain, and some basic maintenance stuff like changing the oil with 0W-20 Alysin (.5QT 10W-40 Mobile 1 mixed in), flushing brake system and using Motul RBF 600, Changing the fluid in the steering damper, etc. I just received my Racetech springs and gold valves, so those will be going in soon too. Ultimate goal for this thing is to make a street weapon. I want to be able to keep up with modern liter bikes in the turns and beat them in a straight line. Eventually I will be getting cams, high compression pistons, and porting the head, but that won't be until the motor needs a rebuild. Right now the bike only has 26,000mi on it, so I've got plenty of life left on this motor before rebuilding it. I've been reading a lot of posts by members like @c10 , @ROADTOAD1340 , and @michael parris heuberger so I've begun to strive for weight reduction. I know the VooDoo Stainless exhaust isn't the lightest thing out there, but it's not bad for the price. Maybe once I get some more money saved up I'll go Ti crazy lol. Anyway, just wanted to say hi to everyone and introduce myself. I may start a build thread here with a bit more photos and info than the IG.

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GIXXER1300 said:
changing the oil with 0W-20 Alysin (.5QT 10W-40 Mobile [sic] 1 mixed in),
Click to expand...

Your bike is a spectacular effort! Great work!

With that I hate to be write a negative post but just take it as intended, as a highly positive thought for you. I am compelled to suggest that you never mix two different models of oil. What viscosity do you get at this particular vehicle's operating temperature by mixing 3.5 qt 20 wt and .5 qt 40 weight? NOT a slightly thicker oil that represents the proportions put in. What about protection against fuel and acid? What about protection on overheat at 250°F? The answer is that there is no way to predict the performance of the new mix without doing all of the ASTM tests performed on the original formulas. It is the formula that creates all of the oil's characteristics. It is almost 100% certain that the new formula does not have the viscosity at operating temperature that you think it does, and even if it does, it will not protect against specific issues as well as the two original formulas.

If you are concerned that the 20 weight is too thin (which you should be) then I would use a pressure gauge to measure the pressure throughout the rev range and compare it to the pressure in a Hayabusa with 30 or 40 weight oil. Consult an engine builder over any apparent anomalies that you find. (Hey @c10 have you ever measured the oil pressure of a Hayabusa and taken video of the procedure? :) )
 
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Hayabusa Wannabe said:
Your bike is a spectacular effort! Great work!

With that I hate to be write a negative post but just take it as intended, as a highly positive thought for you. I am compelled to suggest that you never mix two different models of oil. What viscosity do you get at this particular vehicle's operating temperature by mixing 3.5 qt 20 wt and .5 qt 40 weight? NOT a slightly thicker oil that represents the proportions put in. What about protection against fuel and acid? What about protection on overheat at 250°F? The answer is that there is no way to predict the performance of the new mix without doing all of the ASTM tests performed on the original formulas. It is the formula that creates all of the oil's characteristics. It is almost 100% certain that the new formula does not have the viscosity at operating temperature that you think it does, and even if it does, it will not protect against specific issues as well as the two original formulas.

If you are concerned that the 20 weight is too thin (which you should be) then I would use a pressure gauge to measure the pressure throughout the rev range and compare it to the pressure in a Hayabusa with 30 or 40 weight oil. Consult an engine builder over any apparent anomalies that you find. (Hey @c10 have you ever measured the oil pressure of a Hayabusa and taken video of the procedure? :) )
Click to expand...
Good points! I hadn't thought about most of that, I just went with two oils that had high zinc content and high film strength to give me the best protection without having a heavy, syrupy oil. I've always run high zinc, high film strength, low viscosity oils in all of my turbo cars and never had an issue, so I didn't see it being an issue here either, although I usually run a 5W in my cars, which is why I added the 10W-40 to thicken up the 0W-20 just a bit. Next time I'll do it right and just buy a 5W.
 
GIXXER1300 said:
Good points! I hadn't thought about most of that, I just went with two oils that had high zinc content and high film strength to give me the best protection without having a heavy, syrupy oil. I've always run high zinc, high film strength, low viscosity oils in all of my turbo cars and never had an issue, so I didn't see it being an issue here either, although I usually run a 5W in my cars, which is why I added the 10W-40 to thicken up the 0W-20 just a bit. Next time I'll do it right and just buy a 5W.
Click to expand...
Welcome & you have been really getting after it with upgrades. The Alysin 0-20 is not really for use some use it on dyno for slightly higher #s but it is a cheat wears crazy fast & most will change back to conventional oil viscosity after run. Also check the slip on VooDoo pipe securing band if the tail pipe is lose after awhile & keeps getting lose it is because they did not get the band size correct & it is bottomed out. Meaning it is tightened all the way down but not putting proper force onto the pipe. Look for a replacement band.. Nice job on bike so far should become a fun project to follow.
 
GIXXER1300 said:
Thanks @Nastee , I'll make sure I check that band and put some proper oil in my bike.
Click to expand...
Just to give an idea of the protection value. When a teen going riding with a friend on a RM 80 we put fresh 5-15w oil in it since he needed to change the oil & that was the only thing he had. We rode for a few hour & I was not comfortable with his choice but neither of us had experience with such a light clear oil & wanted to ride. Upon return we checked the oil it was just as dirty & visibly shot in about 3hours!!!! He got lucky only because I checked it out of curiosity. Now it was a two stroke but gives you an idea of how quickly damage could occur .
 
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