Torque wrench question

Highlander

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I see the need for a torque wrench right away. I've been looking at some, and was wondering what specs you all use. 3/8 drive, 0 to 150 ft lbs enough? Digital, clicker, or beam?
All I see me doing is pulling the wheels for tire changes, adjusting the chain,  changing the oil, and the footpeg mod.  Got my Redline stands and spools yesterday, nice stuff!
I do appreciate the advice, y'all are awesome!  
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And I swear, those reflectors are toast this Saturday!
 
Ihave 2, a 3/8" 5-75 and 1/2" 20-200.   I use the 1/2" drive for everything over 50 ft/lbs because it is larger and easier to pull

Don't buy the crappy ones with the needles you have to read while torquing, get the click-type ones where you set the torque and it "clicks" when you reach it.
 
I have a 3/8" drive, from Husky. I actually like it and I have had it for years now. While my friends' Craftsmas have just about all broken by now. Seems like Craftsman quality went down the tubes. But yeah, I use the 3/8" drive from about 20 ft lbs to up to about 120 ft lbs, used it for years to do headgaskets and stuff.
 
(BusaWhipped @ Aug. 16 2007,06:09) Ihave 2, a 3/8" 5-75 and 1/2" 20-200.   I use the 1/2" drive for everything over 50 ft/lbs because it is larger and easier to pull

Don't buy the crappy ones with the needles you have to read while torquing, get the click-type ones where you set the torque and it "clicks" when you reach it.
+1

I have both a 3/8 and 1/2 Snapon. If I had to buy one it would be a 1/2" click type. (along with a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter) Stick with name brand units, take care of it, and it will last forever. My 1/2" Snap-On is 25 years old, and has been checked for calibration 3 or 4 times. Never needed adjusting.

Later you can consider a 3/8" for the smaller stuff.
 
I have a 3/8 clicker in inch pounds for the small , more sensitive stuff < 22 ftlbs, ( had to replace oil pan), and a beam type for the larger stuff, like the rear axle nut.
 
+anudda for the 1/2" clicker. It's almost a 'set it and forget it' thing.

If you get into pulling your cams to adjust the shims, a 1/4" comes in real handy.
 
(Professor @ Aug. 16 2007,05:46)
(BusaWhipped @ Aug. 16 2007,06:09) Ihave 2, a 3/8" 5-75 and 1/2" 20-200.   I use the 1/2" drive for everything over 50 ft/lbs because it is larger and easier to pull

Don't buy the crappy ones with the needles you have to read while torquing, get the click-type ones where you set the torque and it "clicks" when you reach it.
+1

I have both a 3/8 and 1/2 Snapon. If I had to buy one it would be a 1/2" click type. (along with a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter) Stick with name brand units, take care of it, and it will last forever. My 1/2" Snap-On is 25 years old, and has been checked for calibration 3 or 4 times. Never needed adjusting.

Later you can consider a 3/8" for the smaller stuff.
Nice to hear (So that's where the "snap" in "attack" comes from.

Most industrial applications are leaning towards the digital and with good reasons. First, you get in. lbs., ft. lbs. and Nm all in one so you don't have to convert scales. Second, they use a sensor in the head as opposed to a spring/beam system. Less maintenance and more accuracy over a broader range of the scale. Third, the digital will warn you when your getting close to target AND give you a final output reading. The only way to get a final output reading on a click-type is with a transducer. Digitals are available from +/- 1-2% fixed or ratcheting head and 4% interchangable head. I find that I grab this wrench 90% of the time. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog....catalog

If you choose a click-type, they are most accurate 20-80% of the maximum torque range. Also, when you store them be sure to take stress off the spring by backing all the way off (avoid apring memory). When you use them, "exercise" the spring by going up and down the scale a few times before your target setting.

Before you ask, I handle corporate contracting for Snap-on and do not sell to individuals. However, I would entertain helping out a few members if there is enough interest in a particular product.

One last thing, I posted a few comments on torque here if you are interested in reading.
 
(TurboSN95 @ Aug. 16 2007,05:22) I have a 3/8" drive, from Husky.  I actually like it and I have had it for years now.  While my friends' Craftsmas have just about all broken by now.  Seems like Craftsman quality went down the tubes.  But yeah, I use the 3/8" drive from about 20 ft lbs to up to about 120 ft lbs, used it for years to do headgaskets and stuff.
Seems I heard a rumor about a law suit couple years back about a manufacturer stamping "Made in USA" on product built outside the US...
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I need to save up for one. I'm currently doing all my maintenance. As time goes on you'll be changing brakes, chains and sprockets, etc. along with the oil.
 
whatever you choose make sure is a quality one. There's no reason to buy a torque wrench of it's not consistaly accurate and can stay calibreated correctly for at 1-2 years.

I have mine checked every 3 yrs and recalibrated. They do get out of wack from alot of use. Also, never use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt and always set the torque setting back down low after you use it. This will halp keep it within specs longer.

To be honest though for the things your doing, I never use a torque wrench.
 
2 snap ons that were given to me by an old friend.Both click type.3/8 in. lbs.and 1/2 in ft. lbs.Over 30 years old and looks new.Built several engines with them.And now use them on the bikes.
Pressure relieved off the spring after every use.
 
(proud dad @ Aug. 18 2007,18:54) 2 snap ons that were given to me by an old friend.Both click type.3/8 in. lbs.and 1/2 in ft. lbs.Over 30 years old and looks new.Built several engines with them.And now use them on the bikes.
 Pressure relieved off the spring after every use.
+1...........

3/8" in/lbs / 1/2" ft/lbs....turned down to ZERO after use........had both for at least twenty years and am STILL building motors with them !!!!!!!!

If just one, get 1/2" ft/lbs with 3/8" adapter..........
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