Rayabusa0818
Never Forgotten
I am going to put a torque wrench on my Christmas wish list...I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for brand etc???
Torque Wrench
- Thread starter Rayabusa0818
- Start date
CLICK ME!!!
This is the one I have and where I got it from. (Store not online)
This is the one I have and where I got it from. (Store not online)
Rayabusa0818
Never Forgotten
Thanks, I have a lot of Craftsman tools and that was my first thought.
Although I am partial to my Snap-on, I am more partial to electronic versions versus the 25 year old technology click-type. The click-type are better than nothing but not as accurate. Think of pulling the trigger on a hand gun. If you gently squeeze the trigger rather than jerk it you will be more accurate. Now think of aiming the gun and just engaging the laser sight (mo mechanical action). You are even more accurate. Same principle. The electronics due not "slip" or "click" when target is met, they vibrate, light and/or sound off. Click-type should only be used within 20-80% of it's torque rating. Anything below or above may vary output by as much as 10-20%. You also should "exercise" the spring before using by goining up and down scale a few times. You should also store with no load on spring otherwise spring "memory" can occur. Electronic type will provide you a read out of actual torque applied and can be as accurate as 1% but most are 2-4%. The electronic also switch between units of measurement so it's actually 3 wrenches in one. You will need one that goes up to at least 75 ft lbs (rear axle nut) IMO.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog....n-store
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog....n-store
always good to get both a 3/8 & 1/2 drives
Thanks for the heads up. How often does the snap on electronic torque wrench need to be recalibrated and for how much?Although I am partial to my Snap-on, I am more partial to electronic versions versus the 25 year old technology click-type. The click-type are better than nothing but not as accurate. Think of pulling the trigger on a hand gun. If you gently squeeze the trigger rather than jerk it you will be more accurate. Now think of aiming the gun and just engaging the laser sight (mo mechanical action). You are even more accurate. Same principle. The electronics due not "slip" or "click" when target is met, they vibrate, light and/or sound off. Click-type should only be used within 20-80% of it's torque rating. Anything below or above may vary output by as much as 10-20%. You also should "exercise" the spring before using by goining up and down scale a few times. You should also store with no load on spring otherwise spring "memory" can occur. Electronic type will provide you a read out of actual torque applied and can be as accurate as 1% but most are 2-4%. The electronic also switch between units of measurement so it's actually 3 wrenches in one. You will need one that goes up to at least 75 ft lbs (rear axle nut) IMO.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog....n-store
$620.00?!?!?!?!?!!!!!Although I am partial to my Snap-on, I am more partial to electronic versions versus the 25 year old technology click-type. The click-type are better than nothing but not as accurate. Think of pulling the trigger on a hand gun. If you gently squeeze the trigger rather than jerk it you will be more accurate. Now think of aiming the gun and just engaging the laser sight (mo mechanical action). You are even more accurate. Same principle. The electronics due not "slip" or "click" when target is met, they vibrate, light and/or sound off. Click-type should only be used within 20-80% of it's torque rating. Anything below or above may vary output by as much as 10-20%. You also should "exercise" the spring before using by goining up and down scale a few times. You should also store with no load on spring otherwise spring "memory" can occur. Electronic type will provide you a read out of actual torque applied and can be as accurate as 1% but most are 2-4%. The electronic also switch between units of measurement so it's actually 3 wrenches in one. You will need one that goes up to at least 75 ft lbs (rear axle nut) IMO.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog....n-store
Well, okay. It's probably worth it and assuredly, if I were making my living with my tools, I'd likely be all over something like that. Of course, I'd move my shop into Fort Knox! LMAO
For now, I'll stick with my little knock-off and replace it with a Craftsman when it comes time.
--Wag--
Azuredesign
Registered
I have used the Craftsman 3/8" drive for the past couple of years. It would be nice to have a wrench that will callibrate for smaller amounts of torque than the one I have, which is similar to the one Nightcrawler has a link for. Additionally, the incremental markings on my wrench have faded and are difficult to read. It is relatively inexpensive though!
I have a number of torque wrenches depending on what I am using it for...
I prefer "torquemeters" as they provide a visual reference as to "where you are" they are the slowest of the bunch
I use my "clickers" for heads and other highly repetitive tightening jobs
My inch pounders are for automatic transmission work and doing differentials.. a must have for most bikes too IMO
I have all "Snap-on" stuff but almost any brand name will work fine as long as you have it checked.. I have calibration done every year on my busy wrenches..
I prefer "torquemeters" as they provide a visual reference as to "where you are" they are the slowest of the bunch
I use my "clickers" for heads and other highly repetitive tightening jobs
My inch pounders are for automatic transmission work and doing differentials.. a must have for most bikes too IMO
I have all "Snap-on" stuff but almost any brand name will work fine as long as you have it checked.. I have calibration done every year on my busy wrenches..
I can empathize with that but there is a big difference between a "weekender" and a "full" time wrench twirler...
I can run a set of V8 head bolts with my IR 1/2 impact and be within 5 ft lbs and I bet you can too. Just comes with the job.. you "get the feel" and off and running... (I have no idea how much I have invested in these wrenches and do not want to know)
A guy working in his shop at home needs a decent quality torque wrench IMO..
I think craftsman is fine for home, we would kill it at work..
Just read some reviews on that Craftsman linked in this topic. 18 people hate it.
I think this one would be much better
http://www.sears.com/shc....Level=0
I think this one would be much better
http://www.sears.com/shc....Level=0
I have Snap-On Torque wrenches, but if your not using them all the time, Craftsmen will do fine.
I bought this one in the link I posted earlier today.
On sale $200 and another 10% if you are the craftsmanclub member. You can register membership on their web site. $180 for electronic torgue wrench is not bad I think. calibrated to +- 0.5%
way more accurate then anyone need wrenching motorcycles.
I guess you get what you pay for. I've yet to have mine fail on me though. Granted I've only used it around 10 times in 6 months, but still I'd assume a $230 TW would be better than an $80 one.
NO kidding... but when you can get $230 t/wrench for $170 I`d say go for it.I guess you get what you pay for. I've yet to have mine fail on me though. Granted I've only used it around 10 times in 6 months, but still I'd assume a $230 TW would be better than an $80 one.
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