Valve adjustment

Valve adjustment -

  • time < 2hrs

    Votes: 9 90.0%
  • time > 2hrs

    Votes: 1 10.0%

  • Total voters
    10
Depends on how far off the valves are.  Could be just a little, could be more.

Its definately a more involved job, but not that hard once you have done it.



<!--EDIT|Charlesbusa
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no more than 2.5 hours if i have to pull the cams but............
I do this for a living.
Just to check them is about an hour and I have had to pull cams only one time to adjust
 
it depends if you have a TRE
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I have a question along these lines. How often are you supposed to get the valves adjusted? At a specific mileage? Or is there some kind of tell-tale sign or noise the bike will give you if it needs it?

--Wag--
 
douglasjre
i taught you might be joking but you only have 4 posts

we are making jokes about the TRE
that misterious device that solves all you problems.

TRE = timing retard eliminator and it allows you to break the 186 mph limitation

you should run and get one
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The TRE is also good if you get trapped in a cold dark place...you can burn it for some light and heat...so you see its also a lifesaver...well, maybe not as tasty buuut....its ALLmost perfect right JC & 1299?
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supposely it actually slows your 1/4 mile times by a few tenths but eliminates the "governor" hehehe so you can blast your bike for miles and miles in the dark at 186 plus mph.???

Heres a quote for your reading pleasure:

There is another modification that one of the other sportbike-oriented magazines has praised as the greatest thing since sliced bread. It is a timing-retard eliminator (TRE) available for the 2000 and ‘01 Hayabusa. This is a great mod for guys who race at Bonneville, have several of miles of speed limit free roads in their area (I wish!) or like to practice wheelies. If you like to drag race or do roll-on's , this product will SLOW YOU DOWN! We have tested it time and time again on different bikes at the drag strip with the same results- around one tenth and 1 ½- 2 mph slower. The track measures performance and does not lie when used properly. The bike does have more “seat of the pantsâ€￾ grunt for about the first 5 feet in 1st gear (or up to 4500 rpm) then is confused into thinking that it is in 5th gear all of the time, even though it is in 1st, 2nd, etc. I’ll bet that big-buck Suzuki R&D team didn’t place all of those different load maps in the ECM for no reason!
 
as far as valve adjustments go I am not sure but I do know some mechanics will start it up, listen to the motor and call it adjusted, of course only after they have adjusted your wallet.:O
 
Valves. The trick to adjusting the valves on a Hayabusa isn't the valve check itself, it's getting all the stuff off to get access to the valves. The actual process of using the feeler gauges and spinning the cams doesn't take long at all. But all the hoses, the injector bodies, etc. that need to get taken off so you can pull the valve cover are what eats up time.

As for the actual valve clearance issue... today's high-performance sport bikes (heck, all import bikes) have very reliable valve trains. The actual valves and valvetrain materials are so refined now and feature such good manufacturing, tolerance, etc. that unless you are a regular visitor to redline and do lots of hard rpm blasts your valves are likely to not wiggle out of spec. Heck, my last two sport bikes had a combined total of 90,000 miles. The valves were shim-under-bucket type. I checked the valve clearances every winter and never had to adjust one in more than eight years. I've done service work on other sport bikes ranging from gear-drive V-four motors (VFRs) to SOHC 8-valve motors (Kawasaki ZR7) and I've rarely found valves out of spec. If you treat your equipment nice, it goes around...
 
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