Velocity Racing Turbo - Stage 2 (Busa)

Cecil_Stringer

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Here's a couple of contenders for replacement Turbo's....
What are your thoughts on these two?

The GT30R has the potential to create over 500hp.
The GT28R has the potential to create over 350hp.

The GT28R will also spool quicker and be a direct bolt on... little if any modification required (hopefully).

My motor is currently stock, it may or may not remain that way in the future.
Currently, no plan exist to alter the bottom end.


Garrett GT30R Dual Ball-Bearing Turbo

Dual ball bearings allow for higher efficiency and much faster spool up.
Compressor: 76.2 mm, 56 Trim, 0.60 A/R.
Turbo Housing = 0.82 A/R or 1.06 A/R
T3 style turbine.
Supports up to 500 hp.
An excellent high-power bolt-on upgrade for any T3 turbo.
More power and less lag at a higher efficiency than a T3/T4 hybrid turbo.


or how about this one...


Garrett GT28R Dual Ball-Bearing Turbo

Dual ball bearings allow for higher efficiency and much faster spool up.
Compressor: 60 mm, 60 Trim, 0.60 A/R.
Turbine: 62 Trim, 0.64 A/R.
Comes with an internal wastagte.
T25 style housing - a perfect high power T25 or T28 upgrade turbo.
Supports up to 350 hp.


Source:

http://www.turbocalculator.com/sale-garrett-gt.php

gar_gt30r.jpg
 
Unless you're planning on building the bottom end I'd say add water injection and max out the gt25 and save allot of cash. Gt25R should put you into low 300 level. Add water injection as a safety feature and run it. Once you go above 320 ish its not if you'll throw a rod, its when. So you're basically looking to upgrade you turbo to gain maybe 10-15 hp potential without building. IF you are gonna split cases and build, then go all the way to 500-600 hp.
 
Unless you're planning on building the bottom end I'd say add water injection and max out the gt25 and save allot of cash. Gt25R should put you into low 300 level. Add water injection as a safety feature and run it. Once you go above 320 ish its not if you'll throw a rod, its when. So you're basically looking to upgrade you turbo to gain maybe 10-15 hp potential without building. IF you are gonna split cases and build, then go all the way to 500-600 hp.
This does make sense...If your just trying to get going again stay safe...If you've got the patience and cash to upgrade the internals then you should go with the high HP...
 
Unless you do the intenals you really don't want to put that kind of hp to the wheels. Like othes sad you can get 300 310 out of the smaler turbo.
 
Let's narrow it down to two options:
Low to mid 300's HP wise is fine for now.
More concerned about performance at boost levels between 6 - 15psi.

1) Repair the existing T25 (non ball bearing) model

Pros: Bike is tuned/mapped for this application
Pros: Cheapest option... probably a couple hundred to replace the exhaust housing
Pros: Small Turbos spool quickly (6K RPM or so)

Cons: The potential exist that the impact may have done damage that is not obvious and later become an issue
Cons: Slower spool relative to ball bearing turbos
Cons: Lower HP per level of PSI relative to slightly larger ball bearing HP: 20psi = 360hp)

2) Upgrade to the GT28R (Dual ball bearing)

Pros: Bike is tuned/mapped for this application (TKP uses the same map for both T25 and T28R applications)
Pros: Relatively inexpensive option... less than $1K for a completely new turbo
Pros: Small Ball Bearing Turbos spool very quickly (4.5 - 5K RPM or so)
Pros: Higher HP per level of PSI relative to slightly smaller non-ball bearing HP: 20psi = 420hp)

Cons: More expensive than option A
Cons: Unsure of availability
Cons: May require additional unforeseen efforts to implement (doubtful as this is the model that Velocity uses for their Stage 2 DBB applications)
 
Simple...Option #1...Reason is cost vs potential that #2 may not be compatible with current system and cause to much grief...
 
ok problem

Pros: Higher HP per level of PSI relative to slightly smaller non-ball bearing HP: 20psi = 420hp)


Pros: Bike is tuned/mapped for this application (TKP uses the same map for both T25 and T28R applications)



if it achieves such higher levels of boost at the same rpms, then how does it operate off same fuel amounts?



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You would also have to look at the efficiency ranges of the two turbos in comparison. If at 20psi one supports 260hp and the other supports 360hp, then 20 psi on one turbo may be generating more heat than on another. This could also cause problems if you are not intercooled or using water injection. Also may want to think about your fuel system if it can support the higher airflow from the larger turbo.
 
Option 1

How did you break the preset turbo, i though it was new?? Will they warranty it??
 
Costs:
To repair the broken turbo is probably going to be a couple hundred bucks.
The buy a brand new turbo it is $900.
I am ok with the cost increase if it is of value.

What happened to the original turbo:
The bike fell over and landed on the dump-pipe, transferring the impact to the turbo and snapping the exhaust housing.
The potential exist that the impact may have further damaged the turbo.

Intake temps:
I have water injection.

Compression:
Lowered via head spacer

Mapping:
The map that is on my bike is the same map that has been used on the upgraded VR S2 kits with the GT28R.
I have the additoinal fual management system and injectors to support the GT28R.

Fit:
The GT28R is the same model turbo that Velocity Racing uses for the upgrade from the Turbo I currently have.



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Look for sales on the different turbos you may find what you need a discount prices.
 
By the way sory to hear about your tip over. I must have missd that post..
 
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