Well I thought of that but removing the calipers was easy, they slipped right off and went back onto the rotor just as easily. And I’d just used the brake before putting it on the stands. So, calipers easy on/off, pads fine and when placed back onto the left rotor and bolted w/o pumping the lever, the wheel is very hard to spin. As I spin it it becomes easier as it rotates and then back to being hard.
With the bike on the stand, use anything like a run-out guage, set a screwdriver on a stool and slide it very close to the rotor, then spin the wheel.
You're not measuring anything, so all you need is something stationary, like a screwdriver, eye balled close to the rotor, and you will quickly see if it is bent, as the screwdriver will contact the rotor at the rotor's high spot.
That is the quickest way to tell without removing anything.
If you wanted to be precise, run-out guages are available with flexible arms(think desk lamp) and magnetic bases.
Stick it to the fork and move it into position, then when it's needle contacts a high spot on a rotor you will know just how far out it is by the guage reading.
Same type that you would use shimming a ring and pinion differential.
But, if you can feel the bend when you spin the wheel, you know the rotor is warped or bent anyway, so that hardly matters, lol
