Weird clutch engagement

AsleepAtTheTree

AsleepAtTheTree

Registered
So...last summer i replaced my clutch plates, steels, fibers and springs, i ride once a week, every week. Got it back together and everything seemed fine, didn't notice anything wrong at the time...

While later my clutch slave was leaking and didnt notice it for a while until recently. Bought a rebuild kit but was still leaking, could get it to pump up and hold pressure for weeks so i didn't worry abt it till it jus went out completely.

Bought new oem slave, didn't touch nothing else, got it to build and hold pressure in no time... Went to take the ole gal for a spin afterwards, pulled clutch started right up, hit first gear and went to pull off and noticed it took a longer throw to engage than usual, tool it for a spin anyways didn't think much of it. Shifted fine, launched fine, full throttle through all gears and no slippage

No slippage is what really has me confused

What could cause this?

Not 100% sure but i think i have the brocks clutch mod, or at least a welded slipper, bike chirps the tires a bit on downshifts, im at 70inches tho

If so the only thing i can think of is i didn't reuse the old springs when i changed the clutch plates and maybe it had heavy duty springs instead of the factory springs

Not sure if that would affect clutch lever throw distance, and why its not slipping

And...i have the levers adjusted so they are the closest to handle bar when engaging slack....but still doesnt engage until midway almost all the way out....thanks for reading this far lol hope i can get this figured out???
 
Mr Brown said:
Do you mean that the clutch is functioning like an on/off switch? That it's hard to modulate?
Click to expand...
I mean pretty much, if i try to launch, usually between 3k-5k depending on if im on the street or track, my hand is almost completely extended before i feel the clutch engage the slack out and its causing me to overly slip the clutch because i cant load the motor soon enough at full throttle because im pretty much fully extended out with the clutch from the hit with no engagement...its weird, hard for me to explain

Im geared 16/43 so on the street i dont have to use the throttle at all to move forward, before this issue, i could pull the clutch lever in and jus barely extend my clutch hand and it grabs and moves

Now i have to extended my clutch hand pretty much double the distance, damn near completely extended to get the same initial grab to move forward....i swear its hard to explain
 
Last edited:
And again...havent noticed any slippage at full throttle...well, yet anyways...idk man poop crazy fr

All all i did was replace the slave cylinder?

Are their different sized slave cylinder pistons or something

Well like i said, not sure if clutch springs can change clutch throw/extension cause i did replace the old with new oem, not sure if the old were heavy duty or not

Heard something abt clutch stack height to?
How do u adjust stack height?

Sucks that it seems like no one else has had this problem
 
Mr Brown said:
Do you mean that the clutch is functioning like an on/off switch? That it's hard to modulate?
Click to expand...
@Mr Brown. By "modulate" If you mean cant feel the clutch out according to throttle position and load on the motor then YES... I have no ROOM to modulate the clutch out, its like its either slip or full engagement
 
@Mr Brown. You know how when u stage up, you tach your launch rpm, then u INITIALLY load the clutch and slightly feel the bike tug you before the go light comes on and you smash the throttle and smoothly let the clutch out!!!

Well...i cant do that because the clutch is not engaging until pretty much full throw/extension

The more i try to explain the more it sounds jus like u mention "on/off switch"
 
Mine did this when the slave cover was broken. Visually check the cover, and if you're 100% sure that's not the issue, then stack height and springs are next. You can mess with stack height by swapping out steels and fibers, combine heavy and regular springs by trial and error, just keep detailed notes on what you do so that when you find a combo that works you can repeat it.
 
Mr Brown said:
Mine did this when the slave cover was broken. Visually check the cover, and if you're 100% sure that's not the issue, then stack height and springs are next. You can mess with stack height by swapping out steels and fibers, combine heavy and regular springs by trial and error, just keep detailed notes on what you do so that when you find a combo that works you can repeat it.
Click to expand...
Preciate it @Mr Brown. Man i swear youve been the biggest help ive had since I've been apart of this forum

Cant say it enough how much i appreciate u
 
Mr Brown said:
Mine did this when the slave cover was broken. Visually check the cover, and if you're 100% sure that's not the issue, then stack height and springs are next. You can mess with stack height by swapping out steels and fibers, combine heavy and regular springs by trial and error, just keep detailed notes on what you do so that when you find a combo that works you can repeat it.
Click to expand...
After thinking about tho...

If it were that, wouldn't it make it to where i couldn't use the clutch, like make it to where the bike would creep because the slave is pushing out and not fully disengaging the clutch instead of my issue where it doesnt creep but it does disengage, jus doesnt engage sooner...

I swear this crap is so weird to me lol...

How would i know if the springs or stack height is the issue
 
1 Clutch slave all years the same , only K-Factory Japan brand clutch slaves got diff piston dia and bore
2 Sit on your bike and pull with lefthand clutchlever in and feel with righthand fingertops the sprocketcover ,
if you feel some movement in cover you know ( cover is broken )
3 Pull clutch cover off , check pressure plate ,Springs (i use 3 stock and 3 hd ) bolts , studs , BTL (oem or Weld or CarpenterRing or Brocks) , check hub for worn damage ( pitting by Steel plates ) PULL ALL plates and fibers , soak them 1 night in fresh oil , stack height all at 50mm
4 Buy the minimal 2 vinger clutchslavesupport BETER you buy 3 vinger type
5 Glue the studs with Loctite RED and torque them on 25Nm
6 Spring bolts can be glue Loctite Bleu and torque them on 12 Nm
7 All cover bolts at 10Nm
8 Bleed the clutch slave cilinder

Wish you the best , greets from tulpcountry the Netherlands
 
@Dennis. @Vanishing Point

Thanks guys all great info, had to check part number of slave cylinder after mention of "k-factory Japan" came out to be "k2/k3 model"

Suppose to be picking up a slave support in the morn so im gonna do the "hand test" on the cover and go from there

Im hoping its the cover and not internal lol
Easier fix and can get back to riding

THANKS ALL FOR THE HELP!!!
i now know where to look :super: :banana:
 
Mathewrussell52 said:
That is route i went proactively mine is exotic cycles it was cheap. Have read that if broken. These will fix it without replacing cover.
Click to expand...
Exactly what im hoping for
Buddy of mines has the exotic cycle slave support im picking up tomorrow
If not...buying new cover, reuse the support and go all 6 heavy springs, if that doesnt work, new oem plates n fibers, make sure all internals are good and bolt it all back up with everything i mentioned above

That should do it lol.............plus new oil n filter
:banana: :super:
 
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