What rattle can spitters look like

[2hip]

If you been following the ongoing saga of my home brew bike paint job...I want to share with you why you should not use a rattle can to spray primer. The reason is called spitters. A spitter is a little bit of an extra gob of paint that was not atomized properly as it exited the nozzle of the rattle can. You might think that it is no big deal...in that you would be wrong.

Take a look at pics one and two and I will show you what they look like after you have sanded the heck out of them, sprayed 4 coats of color base, and then 4 coats of clear. As two pros told me..anything that shows up on the primer coat will be magnified by the black. Even though you sand everything flat you still have that extra pigmentation because of the extra gob that got spat out. When you have a lot of them it makes your paint job look like shizzle..

Never use a rattle can...unless you are really good...the weather is warm...and when I did them the weather was cold and I went through a big learning curve

 

[cipher5791]

Thanks for the tip

 

[Wayneovich]

I tried the rattle can route on my rear hugger I must say the results were less than desireable.

 

[Abi]

Did you wet sand your primer before you sprayed the basecoat? I don't use rattle can paint but I still sand my primer to smooth everything out before moving to the next step.

 

[BusaWhipped]

I've painted with spray rigs and rattle cans. Rattle cans don't deliver a spray that's as consistent as a spray gun, but the most important thing to the outcome of the paint job is preparation and technique.

 

[Treelimb]

I've painted with spray rigs and rattle cans. Rattle cans don't deliver a spray that's as consistent as a spray gun, but the most important thing to the outcome of the paint job is preparation and technique.

+1 on that

 

[djsin]

I like to warm my rattle cans up b4 spraying ....


oh wait i was talking about my exhaust and NOS

 

[afterhours]

1. typically spray cans spit when the preesure is low, and your trying to get that last drop of paint out of it. full new cans usually atomize pretty well.

2. its not the "extra paint" that is staining your base coat. the extra paint is creating a "high spot" on the surface that must be wet-sanded down. ideally not by hand, but with a flat tool.

 

[2hip]

Afterhours, I sanded everything down to flat by wetsanding. The problem is this...once you get that extra bit of paint it creates an extra pigmentation...when you sand it down and try and get the extra pigmentation out you are almost down to factory oem...if you go through that factory paint that is where the nightmares begin. It is here where you end up dealing with the releasing agents they use in the molds...which happened to me on several pieces of plastic...I'm still dealing with one of the front pieces that holds the turnsignal and intake-air...

 

[BIG GUY]

Thanks for sharing the good tip with all of us.

 

[afterhours]

Afterhours, I sanded everything down to flat by wetsanding. The problem is this...once you get that extra bit of paint it creates an extra pigmentation...when you sand it down and try and get the extra pigmentation out you are almost down to factory oem...if you go through that factory paint that is where the nightmares begin. It is here where you end up dealing with the releasing agents they use in the molds...which happened to me on several pieces of plastic...I'm still dealing with one of the front pieces that holds the turnsignal and intake-air...

does it still show thru if you re-primer and wet sand the piece?