Wheelie bar, 2 step, Clutch cover question

MidnightBusainSD

Busa Rancher
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Well i lunched my bike at the track last night came up and over backwords. So im gona get it fixed and put a wheelie bar on it.

Wheelie bar question is
I also plan to put my 4 in extended arm on is there anything else i need to consider when doing the wheelie bar? we plan on building me and another guy from the track said he would help me.

The strut that i put in it should it still be 12in or longer/shorter since i'm gona run the loger arm also

2 step question.

Opinons which ones better for the money the Nlr 2 step or the Dyna 2 step?

Clutch cover should i consider getting a easy access one for changeing the clutch packs if need be or are the bit of a waste of the money?

If not which is a good one to use?

And is there one that dose not require the cutting of the fairing?

Also considering adding a Shift light and possibly a air shifter too

And for some of you wonder yeah i'm alright when the bike came up and i knew i couldnt save it i bailed and slid 15 ft scraped my right arm some from velcro in my jaket.
Bike damage is Clutch Cover. and the cover below the starter cover. i belive that the crack cover. the Frame slider did it's job no other plastic is damaged i luckily didn't have side fairings on at the time. the right rear set peg is broke and the brake lever is bent and thats all the damage there is lucky and a severly hurt pride
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Was you running a strut when you flipped your bike? If so thats one of the reasons you flipped it, you need suspension on short no bar bikes.
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Was you running a strut when you flipped your bike? If so thats one of the reasons you flipped it, you need suspension on short no bar bikes.
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No i was running stock bike with suspension just asking the question about the strut for with the 4 in arm if it needs to be shorter or longer then the normal strut you would install since i will be haveing the 4 in over arm on it right now it's still stock wheelbase
 
Was you running a strut when you flipped your bike? If so thats one of the reasons you flipped it, you need suspension on short no bar bikes.
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No i was running stock bike with suspension just asking the question about the strut for with the 4 in arm if it needs to be shorter or longer then the normal strut you would install since i will be haveing the 4 in over arm on it right now it's still stock wheelbase
You could use a shorter strut or lowering dog bones to keep it low, that will have to be your choice.

I don't think you will need a quick access clutch cover and I don't know of any that do not require cutting body work.

I would not go with the dyna shift light either. To much stuff to buy for it to work, you can just get a Harlan or Raptor light and it will be half the cost of the Dyna and eveything will be contained in 1 small unit.
 
and getting a street tire to hook up with a wheelie bar......GOOD LUCK!!!!! aint happenin......
Your lookin at gettin a slick now.
 
Yeah i know i will either need a shootout tire or a slick to run a wheelie bar i already have one actually mounted on another rim
 
Why do you want training wheels? You can still get good times without bars. Practice is the key.......
that's what they tell me anyway! Try with just the arm first, you'll be amazed at the difference. It will still come up on ya, but it's way easier to launch hard.



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Hey how should the suspension be set up?

+1 on not getting the wheelie bars its like drag racing viagra...yeah youll preform but the all natural guy looks cooler doin it
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try the arm and lower it. I suggest run a Shinko 003 tire with the extended swingarm and you will really have a time trying to flip the thing, wheel spin yes, flip no.
 
yeah i know that about the wheelie bar but i'm the only bike out there without it makes it a bit hard to be competitive even the damn 6R that came out that day had a wheelie bar i got the 4 in over arm on now but the guy i bought it fromr forgot to send me the lower bearings on the pivot point so i need to get them yet before i can fullly bolt it up and still waiting for the 600 pivot to show up then i give her another try and see Debating on getting the NLR 2 step now since i have the bike tore down anyways or waiting awhile for it
 
If you are into drag racing but still drive it on the street at all, i recommend staying away from the wheelie bars. I had them on my last bike and loved it at the track but unless you plan to remove the strut and re-install your stock suspension every time you go to the track then you are in for a bad back ache since you will basically have a hard tail sportbike (not a good ride!). Another way to keep the times consistant is to try the MPS auto shift kit for the busa. This kit will automatically shift into the next gear at a preset RPM, fully adjustable. This alone will take a chuck of time off your time slips if you are currently foot shifting. I've got mine in the garage waiting for my busa to come back from the paint shop, cant wait to try it in a few weeks. As for the clutch, my opinion is go for the full lockup. The lockups go for about $500 installed here, the shop claims that it is a "proprietary design", that prob means that they CNC thier name into it. Hope this helps.
 
I have a NLr 2-step and it seems to be working pretty good. Still haven't launched it at 100% throttle with the 2step yet, but I only have 8 runs in this year. Ran a 9.97 Sat. w/ 1.71 60 foot. Should be able to get into the 1.50's 60 times though withthe other parts I have.

I agree on the bars..... practice and you won't need them.
 
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