Who has Brocks 6pos cam for clutch lever?

Pat Dietrich

Registered
I used to have this on my Gen 1 Busa but I also had the 1 piece clutch mod so not sure if this will fix my problem. My problem is I love the clutch to engage around an inch from the bar. The stock clutch engages way too far out for what im used to at the dragstrip. Its going to screw me up I know so if Brocks cam will do the trick for 45.00 then I dont need to spend$ on a new set of levers like the stm's. Mine are nicely polished and I love the smooth feel of the stockers. Just need to get the clutch engaging where I need it too so I can get this bike to the strip and see if I can knock down some 10.0 passes.
So if You have this with a stock internal clutch, set at position #6, where does it start to engage?
 
Sorry I just gave mine away to IG. If he doesn't need it maybe he'll swap your OE cam for the brock one.

I don't know if it'll solve the situation you're in. All it's doing is moving the position of the lever. Say you have it on pos.1 the lever will be way out from the grip which would give you extra travel in the clutch. Pos.6 may not allow you to fully engage the clutch because the lever distance is so close to the grip. I had it set at pos.5 and with the lever pulled in to the grip I could still feel the clutch grabbing a little.

Send a PM to IG if you still want it. :beerchug:
 
Yes thats sort of what im looking for. So if its grabbing some while lever is pulled to the grip it will start to really engage right off the grip instead of waiting till the lever is 2in from grip making it easier to control clutch off the line. As long as its not too grabby where it makes me roll past timing lights on the line cause i cant hold it back.
 
:beerchug: yup in that case it should help you out. If you do end up using one keep checking your clutch pack so it doesn't over heat.
Yes thats sort of what im looking for. So if its grabbing some while lever is pulled to the grip it will start to really engage right off the grip instead of waiting till the lever is 2in from grip making it easier to control clutch off the line. As long as its not too grabby where it makes me roll past timing lights on the line cause i cant hold it back.
 
The stack height of the clutch pack will also move the position of the point of engagement on the clutch lever. So your results may vary with others.
 
A trick I also used. I fabricated a small "L" bracket that went under the bar end. The long end went under the bolt and had an elongated hole which the bar end bolt passed through. The short side rested against the lever ball. I then would adjust this so I could control the length of engagement to launch. I would set it so it had about 1/8-1/4” of travel before it would creep. It sure helped with reaction consistency and allowed me to get ready to turn on the bottom light faster.

I played with Brocks adjuster a bit. I have Pazzos and like the range and ease of adjustment better, but Brocks adjuster is much cheeper and gives more range than the stocker.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Like I said I had this on my gen 1 and thats what I got used to as far as where the clutch starts to engage when racing. Need a 45 tooth rear sprocket and this lever mod and im all set to run the new bike. Hoping if I can get a few passes in and the weather is decent id like to see a 8.70 pass on pump fuel and low 8.60s on mr12. Just need some seat time. Havent been on a track since 08 and then I had the 14. Did a best of 9.08 @148 with a 1.42 60. About 5 over and bolt ons. That 1 had 183hp. This 1 had a cool down pull of 223. best after that was 219. So, itching to get down the track:thumbsup:
 
I took the adjuster off the stock clutch lever and ground down the facet for the #6 position. A little bit (1/16") goes a long way. Clutch engages much closer to the bar. If you do this watch out for a tiny steel ball and spring that presses against the side of the adjuster. The ball will pop out when you remove the adjuster.
 
:rofl: yea, I remember chasing that ball around the garage :rofl:
I took the adjuster off the stock clutch lever and ground down the facet for the #6 position. A little bit (1/16") goes a long way. Clutch engages much closer to the bar. If you do this watch out for a tiny steel ball and spring that presses against the side of the adjuster. The ball will pop out when you remove the adjuster.
 
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