Why water wetter

jellyrug

jellyrug

Donating Member
www.redlineoil.com

WaterWetter®

Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water
www.redlineoil.com www.redlineoil.com

This came up in a previous post, so I beg the question why on earth anyone would buy this for a street Hayabusa?

If the bike is not broken, is the cooling system doing what it is supposed to?

If the answer is no, fix it, if the answer is yes why would anyone want a more efficient cooling system to remove heat from the motor?

The way an ICE works, gasoline is turned into energy. Around 35% of that energy goes to the back wheel, the rest is heat removed from the motor by the cooling system, the exhaust, brakes, friction components, etc.

So in short, if we are removing more heat with the cooling system than needed, that is energy lost from the gasoline, worse fuel consumption, and less power to the back wheel.

In automotive engineering, the term is “loss of thermal efficiency”.
 
But; what about emissions?
The Gen2 has a catalytic converter, and the Gen3 even more catalysts.
They run hotter for emissions.
The fans can be set to turn on 10-15 degrees sooner in the ecu,
(I also have used Engine Ice for years, which has a higher boiling temperature than regular antifreeze); but I can't see either, or Water Wetter, lower the temperature enough to effect performance negatively.
Some engines aren't even given full fuel and timing until they reach a certain temperature, and a temperature that is still below the thermostat opening.
So, wouldn't running a few degrees cooler always be beneficial, at least to a point?
I am talking about operating temperatures in general too.
Of course fan on temp is just a setting.
As for Water Wetter, I have no experience with it.
Engine Ice, by all accounts performs better than regular anti-freeze, and can disapate heat faster.
Your thoughts?
 
The normal ethylene glycol has a specific heat capacity about 1/2 that of water. Mixed in the correct ratio it will reduce the coefficient of heat transfer somewhere around 10%. That means the cooling system will be 10% less efficient than using clean distilled water.

Automotive cooling systems are designed to handle that. Cooling systems are designed to keep temperatures between 195 to 225F.

In terms of thermal efficiency, the closer an internal combustion engine can run to 225F the more efficient it is.

Heat is energy, so the more heat removed from the engine, the less of the hp goes to the back wheel and the more fuel is burned.

On the Hayabusa, even in the middle of summer in Arizona, when my bone stock Busa is moving, the fan never comes on. The only time it comes on, is when there is not enough air flow through the radiator, ie, when the bike is stationary. So there is no reason to change fan switching in the ECU.

The only cooling improvement would be a thermostat with a much narrower operating range, keeping the needle center. I would not bother though.

In short, other than the standard ethylene glycol added, anything else is snake oil and will only have a negative effect on thermal efficiency of the motor.
 
sixpack577 said:
But; what about emissions?
The Gen2 has a catalytic converter, and the Gen3 even more catalysts.
They run hotter for emissions.
Click to expand...
The Gen III motor despite it's small improvements is less efficient than the Gen II motor as a result of the new catalytic converters to conform to Euro 5. To get more heat into the cat's they have to retard timing, which will give higher exhaust temperatures. That in turn together with late fuel injection will reduce constant volume combustion and lead to more unburnt fuel in the exhaust, with subsequent deterioration of engine power and efficiency.

That is why the Gen III gets less miles per gallon.

Adding snake oil here to the coolant will do even more damage than on the Gen II.
 
In theory, you are probably completely right.
But.. I personally don't see any kind of problem with it if the cooling can be made more efficient, especially for the gen 1 busa, the engine certainly produces enough heat as a byproduct and the thermostat determines the engine temperature.
the power of the old radiator has decreased when the fins of the radiator have sunk into when insects, stones and other things hit the radiator.
Or, as in my case, when the bike has been replaced with aftermarket cooler, which is probably not as efficient as the original part.
In addition, the cooling effect is affected by the amount of glycol used, in Arizona you can probably use a minimum amount of 30%, which guarantees lubrication and protective properties.
My bike spends the winter in an unheated garage and I thought to be sure to add a little more glycol for the winter, even though the current 33-35% mixture is probably enough to keep the coolant from freezing through the winter.
And if I can improve the heat transfer capacity of the coolant even closer to optimal (after first weakening it with glycol) why wouldn't I do it.

Well, that's about it, at least from my side
what happens if you mention x1r snake oil here
Just messing whit you, I haven't touched the product in question, I trust the properties of high-quality oil..

Yhteisön todentama ‑kuvake
 
^^^^^
LOL, water wetter in any form whatsoever is snake oil.

But if it makes you feel good, have at it.
 
On the street, unless you are getting crazy with the mods (some folks on here are...) I wouldn't touch the cooling system other then regular maintenance. I have used water wetter before, but that was on track where you are not allowed to use coolant. Other then that I agree, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
I have actual data on how efficient the cooling system on busa is.
110 degree AZ heat with a turbo.
Did some highway pulls, coolant temp didn't go over 185*
Intercooler temps went from about 160 from the start of the run to about 190 after a nice fat pull.
The busa has an extremely good cooling system and there is no need for exotic cooling fluids.
50/50 premix distilled prestone.
 
Water wetter is for if you are running a vehicle hard enough to overtax the cooling system. It allows the system to shed the extra heat better. If the cooling system is up to the task of what you are doing, no need for it. My old Camaro uses water wetter, simply because the BBC has been bored so far oversized, the cylinder walls are thin and it transfers heat faster. It’s not bad as long as you are driving sedately, but start making 1/4 mile passes, romping on it on the street more than 2-3 times or sitting in the Texas heat and humidity in traffic, the water temps would start climbing rapidly. Could I update the cooling system, of course, but the ability to shed heat from the water wetter works for now and is way cheaper than a bigger, better radiator, better water pump, new block, etc.
 
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