Wierd Temp Gage Issue with 2006 Haybusa

[Ghost23]

HELP! I have a weird problem. My Temp Gage pegs out sometimes whether the engine is cold or hot, and the ECM won't allow the bike to start, which is what it's supposed to do. It's not consistent, which is a pain because I don't know when / if it will start for me. Here is what I've done.
1) Replaced the following components: Water Temp Sensor (on the block), Radiator Fan Sensor, Fan Relay, Rectifier (had a new one)
2) Took every connector apart, cleaned and inspected them, found nothing.
3) Voltage Input Test to the ECM is about equal to Battery Voltage (relatively new battery) and voltage is good.
4) I cleaned, (carefully with electronic cleaner) the ECM pins and connectors. This seemed to work for about 20 minutes, then the bike kept shutting down. Problem came back.

When I pull the 34 pin connector off, and turn on the ignition, I get the same High Temp indication and starting problem. Removing the 24 pin connector gives me an FI light, which is normal. I believe that the ECM is the issue, one or more parts of it may be starting to fail. ANY thoughts or experience with this situation would be highly appreciated!!

 

[VIPER]

it seem as hit or miss as it is that you have a wire issue. Maybe a wire got burnt? Or possibly broken. I would trace the wires from the temp gauge and the wires from the temp sens and see if you have some exposed or broken wires. Also get your meter out and ohm the wires one at a time while wiggling and look for a break or short. I doubt its the ecm it just decodes the info sent to it. If its getting intermittent signal it fails on the safe side. I have seen water from rain etc get to wires here and there and rust or corrode the wire in the sleeve actually from a pin holes in the insulation etc

 

[Ghost23]

Thanks...was dreading that course of action...arghhhh.....

 

[Busabim]

MY temp gauge (usually after a ride) would go to full hot, but the bike always starts up; It is a dash/software glitch and has nothing to do to the bike starting.

BB

 

[Ghost23]

I just dug deeper into the troubleshooting guide. (missed this part the first time) I have continuity between the ECT and the ECM connectors, so the wiring is good. The Manual states that this indicates a faulty ECM. I was also curious that another thread in the forum stated that a bad rectifier ruined the ECM. While I wait on parts, any other thoughts out there on this weird crap? LOL....

 

[Busabim]

As a follow up, my dash was doing weird things when my voltage got low on a recent trip. I am using a Shorai and it needs at least 14.5 volts to charge.

First my odometer went out and then all the other gauges started to freeze. When I got home and the battery charged up, everything returned to normal. I since replaced the rectifier/regulator as it was only putting out 14 volts max and should put out close to 15.

BB

 

[FlatlandBusa]

If your kill switch is acting up, it would cause the temp gauge to peg and the bike to not start.

Next time it acts up try cycling the kill switch and see what happens.

 

[Ghost23]

Flatland...thanks for the tip! I actually took the switch apart, and found an issue. The securing post that is part of the upper half of the housing had broken off. So, the switch was moving around, and the broken piece of plastic was bouncing around inside. In addition, the contacts were a little grungy. I'm not sure if this is the sole and/or root cause, but it had to have contributed to the issue. I have had numerous good starts with no recurrence as of yet. Time will tell the story. Thanks to all who replied to his thread though! All information was helpful! GO ORG!!

 

[FlatlandBusa]

 

[nosbig]

Good call flat. That is the last place I would have looked.

 

[Ghost23]

LMAO...it WAS the last placed I looked! After the guide took me to all of the sensors and relays...arghhh..... Can you tell I hate electrical?

 

[jch364]

wow. what a save. isnt that one of those times where the most simple answer is usually the right one? who would have thought.

 

[Ghost23]

So, the problem came back...and guess what? It was the Gear Position Switch behind the Clutch Basket all along. It was failing, causing the Kill Circuit to engage because the bike was "thinking" it was in gear with the kickstand down. If anyone has their Neutral light flicker from time to time, and experience what I just did...good place to start looking!! I didn't notice the difference until I ran the bike on the stands, and started to play around. Go figure!