First, I scanned the Safety Recall Campaign #2A05 Ignition Switch Inspection/Replacement Service Bulletin and turned it into a 7.2 MByte pdf file. I hosted it on a free web hosting site, so it will likely go inactive 30 days after the last download... perhaps someone can provide a permanent hosting site? This Service Bulletin has all the details about the recall; I wanted guidance to do the inspection on my bike so I would know if I would need the new ignition switch or not. Here is the download site:
http://www.savefile.com/files/1675906
Ignition Switch Inspection
This "tutorial" is only for the inspection of the wires. In my case, my wires were properly located and I do not need the ignition switch replacement. However, if you find your bike is not properly wired, you may wish to visit your dealer for the new ignition switch even though you can reposition the wires in the meantime.
You'll only need simple tools to remove the lower and upper meter panels and to reposition any of the wires that may need adjusting.
"¢ 4 mm hex wrench (I used a 3/8" drive ratchet and 6" extension for convenience)
"¢ A straight blade screwdriver for the lower meter panel plastic locking pins (I used the z-shaped screwdriver for this)
"¢ A small Phillips screwdriver to push in the plastic locking pins that secure the upper meter panel
"¢ A small straight blade screwdriver to release the factory wire ties
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Removal of Lower Meter Panel
1.) Pry up the center portion of the two plastic locking pins. I use my fingernails to get under the outer ring of the pin assemblies and pull the pins out.
2.) Use the 4 mm hex wrench to remove the bolt from the middle of the lower panel.
3.) The lower panel will now come loose; be careful of the tabs on the sides of the panel.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Pry up on the center piece to release these locking pins.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
This bolt is right in the middle of the lower meter panel.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Pull out the center on these pins to get them to release.
Removal of the Upper Meter Panel
I'm not sure this step really helps all that much with the inspection, but the Service Bulletin said to remove the panel, so I did. I guess it does yield a bit more room and lets a bit more light into the area you are inspecting.
1.) Once the lower panel is off, two large locking pins will be exposed. Push in the center of the pins until you hear or feel a click (don't push the pin all the way through, just push it in an 1/8 inch or so). Use your fingernails and pull the whole locking pin out.
2.) There are two small locking pins located on the upper part of the panel. Push in the center to those pins and then remove them.
3.) The upper meter panel will only be held in place by the five tabs that hook into five clips on the upper portion of the dash. Carefully bend the upper "ears" of the panel just enough so you can get a grip on them and pull straight out from the dash. The clips will unsnap and release the upper meter panel. It felt like I was going to break something while I was doing this, but steady pulling pressure got the clips to release. You can work from one side to the other, but I found that some of the clips would "reset" while I was fumbling around with it.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Push the center pin in to release, pull the center pin out to reinstall.
Inspection of the Wires
With the panels off you can do the inspection of the wires. It appears the issue is that on some bikes the factory got the right turn signal wires and the ignition wires twisted around and that could cause the ignition wires to become strained which in turn damages the ignition switch. The Service Bulletin shows the improper and proper way the wires should be secured. I have taken some pictures that also illustrate the proper location of the wire ties and the wires themselves. Even though mine were okay, I did loosen the wire ties and jiggle all the wires around just to make sure everything had plenty of slack. The black Suzuki wire ties can be released by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the back of the "Ëœratchet" mechanism of the tie. I then re-secured the wire ties in the proper location per the Service Bulletin.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Note the ignition wire is run in front of the right turn signal wires. The black plastic tie must be in the middle of the gray marking on the ignition wires. Double check your wires against the Service Bulletin.
Clean-Up
Following my inspection I dusted off everything, reinstalled the upper meter panel and then the lower meter panel. The whole job would have been about ½ hour except for the picture taking. I have not punched my VIN number on the identification tag just in case something ever goes wrong with the ignition switch; I might be able to return to the dealer and have a determination made on the need for a new switch per the recall.
Hopefully this information is useful.
Regards-
Steve
http://www.savefile.com/files/1675906
Ignition Switch Inspection
This "tutorial" is only for the inspection of the wires. In my case, my wires were properly located and I do not need the ignition switch replacement. However, if you find your bike is not properly wired, you may wish to visit your dealer for the new ignition switch even though you can reposition the wires in the meantime.
You'll only need simple tools to remove the lower and upper meter panels and to reposition any of the wires that may need adjusting.
"¢ 4 mm hex wrench (I used a 3/8" drive ratchet and 6" extension for convenience)
"¢ A straight blade screwdriver for the lower meter panel plastic locking pins (I used the z-shaped screwdriver for this)
"¢ A small Phillips screwdriver to push in the plastic locking pins that secure the upper meter panel
"¢ A small straight blade screwdriver to release the factory wire ties
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Removal of Lower Meter Panel
1.) Pry up the center portion of the two plastic locking pins. I use my fingernails to get under the outer ring of the pin assemblies and pull the pins out.
2.) Use the 4 mm hex wrench to remove the bolt from the middle of the lower panel.
3.) The lower panel will now come loose; be careful of the tabs on the sides of the panel.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Pry up on the center piece to release these locking pins.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
This bolt is right in the middle of the lower meter panel.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Pull out the center on these pins to get them to release.
Removal of the Upper Meter Panel
I'm not sure this step really helps all that much with the inspection, but the Service Bulletin said to remove the panel, so I did. I guess it does yield a bit more room and lets a bit more light into the area you are inspecting.
1.) Once the lower panel is off, two large locking pins will be exposed. Push in the center of the pins until you hear or feel a click (don't push the pin all the way through, just push it in an 1/8 inch or so). Use your fingernails and pull the whole locking pin out.
2.) There are two small locking pins located on the upper part of the panel. Push in the center to those pins and then remove them.
3.) The upper meter panel will only be held in place by the five tabs that hook into five clips on the upper portion of the dash. Carefully bend the upper "ears" of the panel just enough so you can get a grip on them and pull straight out from the dash. The clips will unsnap and release the upper meter panel. It felt like I was going to break something while I was doing this, but steady pulling pressure got the clips to release. You can work from one side to the other, but I found that some of the clips would "reset" while I was fumbling around with it.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Push the center pin in to release, pull the center pin out to reinstall.
Inspection of the Wires
With the panels off you can do the inspection of the wires. It appears the issue is that on some bikes the factory got the right turn signal wires and the ignition wires twisted around and that could cause the ignition wires to become strained which in turn damages the ignition switch. The Service Bulletin shows the improper and proper way the wires should be secured. I have taken some pictures that also illustrate the proper location of the wire ties and the wires themselves. Even though mine were okay, I did loosen the wire ties and jiggle all the wires around just to make sure everything had plenty of slack. The black Suzuki wire ties can be released by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the back of the "Ëœratchet" mechanism of the tie. I then re-secured the wire ties in the proper location per the Service Bulletin.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
Note the ignition wire is run in front of the right turn signal wires. The black plastic tie must be in the middle of the gray marking on the ignition wires. Double check your wires against the Service Bulletin.
Clean-Up
Following my inspection I dusted off everything, reinstalled the upper meter panel and then the lower meter panel. The whole job would have been about ½ hour except for the picture taking. I have not punched my VIN number on the identification tag just in case something ever goes wrong with the ignition switch; I might be able to return to the dealer and have a determination made on the need for a new switch per the recall.
Hopefully this information is useful.
Regards-
Steve
