Tools for a wannabe

Tires are one of the things I pay someone else to do.

I have no recommendations today and I am not taking my bike wheels to just anyone. I very much prefer to hand my stuff over to someone else, with my credit card, and tell them to go to town. But if that had been working out, we would not find ourselves in this sticky wicket, where I am collecting tools in general.
 
Can the front wheel be properly tightened from either the hex or nut? Or just the hex, and the nut is more fixed?

I usually hold the axle and tighten the nut.
The nut takes a large allen socket.
And some of the specialty sockets have a 3/8" drive in them for a torque wrench, if the don't, then just hold the hex socket with a wrench, and use a 6 or 12 point socket on the axle and tighten it with the torque wrench, while holding the specialty hex tool with a wrench.
Tightening the nut vs the bolt is pretty standard in most cases, but not always possible, and since the torque is not super high(most Suzuki front sportbike axles are 72' lbs), you can get by if you have to.
Just be aware that some bikes have a fork leg with an internal shelf that the axle sits flush against, so you really don't want to be turning the hex head on the axle when torquing it any more than you have to, as it just grinds against where it seats, vs letting the nut do that on the other side instead.
The axle fit through the center of the fork legs also isn't super tight, which is another reason for the pinch bolts, and on some models They are the only thing preventing side to side movement of the axle, not just it's rotation in the forks.
Also, tighten the pinch bolts by snugging one, then snug the one beside it, and back and forth until both are taking effort to turn, then back and forth with the torque wrench, then the other side.
Pinch bolts are only 17' lbs, and it can seem like alot, so just go slow.
If you just crank one down, then the next, then you risk stripping the 2nd one you tighten, as the pinch bolts just compress the fork leg, and clamp it around the axle.
If you close that gap on one end and leave a big gap on the other(the gap in the lower fork leg that the pinch bolts close), vs pulling them both down evenly...then the hole alignment on the big gap side becomes slightly out of alingment from front to back between the 2 holes.
This can then make it Much easier for a steel bolt to strip aluminum threads, especially with a low torque number.
It is a pretty forgiving design, as I have seen alot that felt like they had 200' lbs on them, and they were fine...and I've had threads come out removing others.
Just an Fyi to keep in the back of your mind, and a little caution can prevent some big headaches.
 
Specialty hex socket for front axles.
Basically it takes a big allen wrench.

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Awesome understanding, thank you.

I got the Snap-On hex reversible ratchet. You can barely see it in the tool picture with an orange handle. I think that is convenient as it covers both a handle and driver tool. But if I do not want to use a crescent wrench on the other end I will need to order that socket. All sockets larger than the kits will be piecemeal for me.
 
It was a very long time ago but I think I remember seeing white grease on the wheel bearings the first time I removed the wheels on my busa. I always used high temp axle grease. I got a 2 quart jug 13 years ago and I still have half of it left. It seems like a good choice, it is for axles after all. :laugh: Could the white lithium be less hash on the rubber bearing seals? I haven't noticed any problem with mine and all I used was the axle grease.
 
I purchased the Powerbuilt 1/4" Torque Wrench rated at 20-100 inch-lbs. It is labelled as a TPMS tool but the documentation says to use it for anything. It looks like a good sensitive tool. Upon receipt it was frozen in the forward direction and there was no dated certification with it. The return and dealing with the company has been a small nightmare. I ended up finally disputing the credit card charge unable to get a refund. That company has good ratings and a presence that indicates, "Come here for quality." Never again.

I intentionally will support individual companies, American companies, purchase direct, paying more, as I know that Amazon and big box strip away all of their margins. In this case that choice was counterproductive.
 
No, taping up nuts and bolt heads to preserve the decorative finish and prevent scratches from the tool.

I kind of like Scotch tape and have used the throwaway plastic shopping bags. I see that some use thin dusting cloths. I am checking if I am missing another good solution.

Oh, and I have done that on few rare occasions.
I try Not to work on anything that fancy and shiny, lol, but there are also many painted fasteners that I try not to scratch too.
I use clear packing tape if it isn't too thick, and I've used scotch tape, plastic bags, and masking tape as well(which tears and doesn't work as well).
I make a concious effort to make sure I have a socket or wrench securely on the fastener, and at the proper angle to begin pulling on it, to try not to damage the hex(external or internal/allen head).
You also bought Snap-On sockets, which are designed to contact on the flats of a fastener, vs the edge like many other socket brands do, so they are very gentle on chrome and painted finishes.
 
I found this from merely by searching the Gopher-based web. This will be the extent of my work surface in the garage. It is mobile with casters that are rated for a massive load. I figured that would be important for the pounding projects. Note that the shelf is designed to be reversible and gleefully I oriented it as a tray. It has four brakes but they are not disc brakes.

2023:11:04 10:36:36_1407  Seville Classics Ultra HD Mill Table_crop.JPG


2023:11:04 10:38:09_1412  Seville Classics Ultra HD Mill Table_crop.JPG


2023:11:04 10:39:38_1420  Seville Classics Ultra HD Mill Table.JPG
 
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