DIY LED Flasher Mod

[omslaw]

For those of you with LED turn signals, you're probably familiar with the faster flash rate and/or the big resistors used to slow the flash rate down.  I started to use the resistors, but stopped because I didn't like the amount of heat they were putting off; I didn't like the idea of melting wiring/plastics.

In the past, it was suggested to use a 552 Heavy Duty flasher to slow the blink rate down.  However, that method doesn't work if one were to use all LEDs; there just isn't enough current to power the flasher.

I've replaced all my bulbs with LEDs and needed something to slow the fast flash rate down...

Well, I found it!   And here's how to install it!



First, go pickup some supplies:

Here's the key, an EP-35 electronic flasher: (I picked it up for $12 at my local auto parts store)

 

[omslaw]

Look at the flasher unit - MAKE SURE it reads 'LED' on it. Tridon redesigned the flasher to make it work with LEDs, some stores still have the older units...

 

[omslaw]

You will also need a little bit of wire, and some crimp connectors. I used 2 - male spade terminals, 3 - *insulated*, female spade terminals, and 1 - scotchlok wire tap connector.

 

[omslaw]

OK, now down to business - we need to remove the two wires going to the factory turn signal/fuel pump relay. The relay is located on the left side, below the left inner panel, by the gauge cluster - next to the fuse block.

The fuel pump relay / turn signal flasher is to the left of the fuse block in this picture:

 

[omslaw]

Remove the relay from the terminal block. Also, to make more room, pull the other relay that's in the front off (it is probably located on the right side - I already moved mine). Now, remove the two screws that mount the terminal block to the bracket. Turn the assembly over and locate the light blue and brown wires - these are the two going to the 'flasher' side of the relay:

 

[omslaw]

Use a small screwdriver (I used a jewelers screwdriver) to help push the connectors out of the block

 

[omslaw]

This is what the block looks like once the two connectors (light blue & brown) are removed:

 

[omslaw]

You can go ahead and reinstall the assembly onto the bracket:

 

[omslaw]

OK, now that the two wires are loose we need to hook them up to the flasher. Look at the bottom of the flasher - you should see some markings, specifically: 'B', 'E', and 'L'

In this picture, 'E' is on top, 'B' is on bottom, and 'L' is on the left.


The BROWN wire connects to 'E'
The LIGHT BLUE wire connects to 'L'
and 'B' needs to be grounded.

 

[omslaw]

The stock wires aren't long enough to stretch to where I planned on mounting the relay, so I need to make a little extension for them. Here's where the length of wire comes in handy. I cut a small length - maybe 3" of wire and stripped the ends for the connectors. I crimped the insulated terminals to one end and my modified spade terminals to the other.

I had to modify the spade terminals to fit the factory female connectors. I just used wire cutters to cut them down:

 

[omslaw]

Then I crimped them to the other end of the wire:

 

[omslaw]

I hooked the red to the brown wire and the black to the light blue wire. Then I wrapped them with electrical tape.

The pic is before the tape...

 

[omslaw]

Now we need to ground the 'B' terminal of the flasher. There is a ground wire in the connector for the nose. It's the large black w/ white tracer. Perfect place to tap for a ground; it's right next to where we're working!

 

[omslaw]

Using another length of wire, crimp an insulated female spade on one end and use a scotchlok tap on the other end into the ground wire.

 

[omslaw]

Note the top of the EP-35 flasher:

 

[omslaw]

That is perfect for sliding onto the unused mounting bracket on the fuse block assembly! Remember I said that I had moved the 'front' relay to the left? I did that so I can mount the flasher on the right!

 

[omslaw]

Flasher mounted - just slide it down on the bracket!

As you're looking at the flasher, the left terminal is the Brown wire, the bottom is the Light Blue wire, and the right is the Ground wire.

 

[omslaw]

Once all that is hooked up, your LED turn signals will now flash at the original DOT rate!!

I have a CA LED board in back, switchback LED's up front, AND LED's in the mirrors - everything flashes at the OEM, DOT rate!


Note, with this mod, you will hear the flasher clicking just like a car when your turn signals are on.


Enjoy!

 

[Trucker Mike]

Nice How-To, Omslaw!

 

[BusaWizard]

You da Man!