Brock Clutch Mod - Again

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Bruce Bohannon

Donating Member
Folks, spent lots of time looking thru the archives - but still have many questions. I am sure others would like to know as well.

Shintz is primary distributor?
Suggested (or approximate) retail?
Is our group recommending HD Clutch springs?
What is - put spacers on first? Is that what our group suggests? Prevents snagging of plates OR Chattering???(n/a w/ HD Clutch springs?)
Do you know of a site that lists torque settings? (no manual yet..(i know, i know))
Special tools required?
Anybody have the mod in stock (TERMS?)

Soak fiber plates in oil overnight.
Other Tips and/or tricks?

I HATE this stock basket - it gonna get me in trouble.

THANKS!

[This message has been edited by Bruce Bohannon (edited 15 May 2000).]
 
Schnitz is the primary seller of the mod. The cost is $219 retail. Spacers are supplied with it, which is all you need unless you want to put HD springs in instead. The torque settings are in the directions(which are perfect). No special tools are required. No need to soak the clutches as you do not need to remove them.
 
I used the Schnitz/Brock mod with the larger springs.You dont need the spacers if you use the big springs.The mod is easy and well worth the money.
 
In mine i got the one from Carpenter race engines Comes with the springs and is $70 dollars plus shipping. Works like a charm.
 
Bruce, I don't have the heavy springs and the Brock mod works great as is.Huge improvement over stock. If I was into drag racing and/or the heavy duty hooligan stuff it might be different.
 
Thanks to all who responded.
Status..... ordered mod and springs today 12:25 CDT. I'm close to St Louis. Aimee, Schnitz rep, said SOP it to ship Air Direct and I will have them Tomorrow. Woah, that is FAST...

Not sure if I will add the HD Springs or not. Do I need them? What are benefits? What is drawback? I am not very hard on the bike.

btw, Aimee said their Triple trees are going very fast; they only have one left and they just received a very large production run.
 
If you are and everyday rider that will not see any heavy clutch action i guess you would not need it. But after riding mine with the mod in place it feels better.But then again mine see's the dragstrip.
 
I'm an everyday rider and I hated the stock clutch. Worst I've ever had on a bike.Maybe mine was worse than most.

I had a choice of babying the thing off the line at 1000rpm, or revving it and dumping the clutch, as in burnout. Anything in between produced a grab and a lurch. Impossible to make a fast but smooth and discreet launch.

The Brock mod made the clutch feel like any other normal clutch. Solid lockup without grabbing, and you can even slip it if you choose.

The best money I've spent on my bike, and I've spent a lot.

Schnitz is tops for service as well.

[This message has been edited by SlowHand (edited 16 May 2000).]
 
Core Charge Clarification (as I know it)....
There is a $60 refund off the $219 Suggested Retail if you return the core within 30 days; $50 refund if it is returned after the 30 days.

Slowhand, I don't think your clutch is any different than most folks here.

While trying to slip the clutch I could of highsided during an agressive left turn from a dead stop. Shaa - What a wake up call. Bad idea - but it was instinct. Worst part is that it may happen again the way I ride. I have to concentrate Not to do this.
 
I got the Schnitz mail out flyers yesterday and it looked as if the mod wasn't for the everyday rider, but this site makes it look like a must have. So, what is it? The core charge is $60.00 and they want the core within 30 days.
 
And which way did you install the spacers under or over the spring.If you said over the spring go pay a mechanic to do it correctly you screwed up.
Now Pay me for telling how to do it correctly cheapscape.
Ps did you soak the plate in oil and did you use loctite on the nut or did you stake it like the book says.
and yes the washer is directional.put it in wrong and the nut will back off.
 
Update... Parts arrived next day as promised. Although I received the HD springs from Schintz - I did not install them. My objective is to slip the clutch. I figure the stiffer spring may not allow me to slip the clutch like I wish. Don't know.

Install was easy.
Tools - Besides what likely have in your tool box you will need a 30 MM Socket, an Impact wrench (hammer or air), toothbrush, and a torque wrench that measures roughly 7 - 70 ft pounds.

Tips... (You don't have to read or follow - although maybe it will help someone.)

1.Start with clean bike and clean plastic.
2.Don't do it if your in a hurry.
3.Two people make it easier than one.
4.Remove seats, Prop tank, Lowest Cowl, RS Lower. When removing RS Lower - Remove black plastic push pin nearest horn near first.
5.Then, the supplied instructions were quite adequate - just reverse the order to remove. Follow supplied instructions
6.You don't need to remove the 3 bolts on the fake clutch cover - just more weight resides.
Notes: 30 MM Nut Loosens CC. You MAY need impact wrench here. Make sure to note which way washer was installed - mine looked like it was bowed? Maybe my imagination?
?Great time to Change Oil & Filter here!
??Adjust and Lube Chain
???Align wheels
5.Assembly - just follow supplied instructions. Clean all threads with a toothbrush before reassembly
7.After buttoning everything mechanical back up check you remaining parts - to make sure you will use what you have left.
8.Drink beverage of choice. Remove warning sticker on RS of frame. Hairdryer works.
9.Clean hands before re-installing plastic. 10.Test.
*The push pin referred to above broke during removal - so I used a black wire tire at re-assembly to get me by till I replace with OEM. You really can't see it.

Above method probably will not allow a mechanic to make money on this project. It's more of a personal way to conduct business.

Thanks to all who have helped me. BTW, my test yielded the most satisfactory results I could of hoped for.

The instructions and parts list suggested a new gasket came with the mod. I did not receive one - nor as yet have I called to see if the list was incorrect or I was shorted. The gasket did bungle a little when removing it. Time will tell if it leaks.



[This message has been edited by Bruce Bohannon (edited 18 May 2000).]
 
Bruce I have been playing with this type of additude since comming back to the board .
I guess I will abandon it no one seems to want to have fun with it.
I was trying to add some color over here I get real gray.
Ok straight gray matter from now on.
Owe me nothing I just want you to do the job correctly.
 
Ps just put the washer the way DaveO said and you do not need to loctite it you stake the nut.
as for the spacer put them in first and then the springs If you have already rode it.
when you take the spacers out you will see what I was talking about.
They have a chance to hit the shoulder stud and bind
 
JC, thanks for the additional pointers! (?)

You gotta attitude today? Your usually willing to add value. How much do you think I owe you for the help?

It is not a matter of being a cheapskate - it is a combination of personal pride and satisfaction of working on my own bike and NOT knowing of a (LOCAL) Competent Mechanic I want working on my bike.

NBD....I started the thread asking for info. I continued the thread in VERY Helpful manner. This isn't brain surgery. I am a bleeping Accountant... I didn't have to do explain the details above. Some people here don't write in sentences. (I realize English isn't some folks primary language.) Some people here don't change their own oil. You on them?

NOW, TO THE POINT......
Care to explain the tradeoff for placing the spacer on the inside or outside of the springs? What about Locktite on the nut? What nut? Pin and Locktite? What about which way on the washer?

How about sharing some of that knowledge? I'll be happy to share some of my wealth with you. Is this how you make a living? Where are you located?

Do I need to go back in to change the spacers? I FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS. Locktite AND PIN the 30 MM Nut? Other POINTERS ANYONE?
Are the instructions wrong about locating the spacers toward the outside of the bike?
**OR do we want to help Brock make his already thorough instructions more clear? How would that be for Customer Service? BTW - I attempted to send Brock an email to join in.

How about constructive critisism?


[This message has been edited by Bruce Bohannon (edited 19 May 2000).]
 
Bruce,

Brock's directions are thorough and accurate. The clutch hub locking washer should be oriented so that the center protrudes outward. This allows the nut to compress it thus locking it inward. Torque was about 60+ ft/lbs. I did NOT loctite the nut, just the spring posts. Worked great for me.

Dave
 
Bruce,
Some of the pressure plate castings leave very little clearance at the bottom of the pocket for the spacers...95% are ok.

The nut has an anti-vibration washer under it,plus the factory stake.

(frickin accountant....just follow the darn instructions. He-he just kidding! e-mail me again if you have more questions.)

Brock

ps. Thanks for the help guys!
I have been very busy.
 
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