stangman327
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DME 6” over, new sprocket and chain, new rear tire and all lines replaced with blue Coremoto. Got lower links installed but haven’t lowered it yet.
What did you do to your Gen 3 today?
- Thread starter sgerry
- Start date
DING
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vortex has blue sprocket? wow
stangman327
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VORTEX (#527) 530 Pitch Aluminum Rear Sprocket - SUZUKI - SprocketCenter.com
Vortex 527 Aluminum Rear Sprocket (530 Pitch) CNC machined. Choice of CAT5 color anodized or F8 Black HardCoat finish. Find Vortex sprockets for your Suzuki at Sprocket Center.
sprocketcenter.com
SPECIALFORCESOFGOD
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Cleaned its wheels and rode her! Tested the BT Moto velocity stacks. Yikes, those things made a noticeable difference up top even with the OEM air filter. Engine finally feels happy to rev. The amplified intake roar is addictive, too. 
mysticblu999
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I started it for the first time on E85
SPECIALFORCESOFGOD
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Go on...
mysticblu999
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Turbo'ed it with a maxx and flex fuel sensor. Going to have it tuned friday.
Today was pretty nice and definitely rideable but there's still to much salt residue on the roads and I had to help a friend move firewood but since I was in the shed I was curious if she would start since I haven't started the bike since Thanksgiving. To my surprise she fired right up so I was happy :-) Tomorrow its supposed to rain so hopefully it'll rain hard enough to wash the salt away and I can pull the bike out of the shed and take it for a spin
stangman327
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Darla’s installed last night!
Those look good, how easy/difficult was the install? I'd like to install auxiliary lights on my Gen III in the future.
mysticblu999
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Bone stock engine! Runs much better now
stangman327
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I will fill you in with a few details tomorrow.
dcnblues
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stangman327
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This was a very easy install. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine.
The only hiccup I ran into was for the mount but as Pashnit mentioned in his gen 3 Busa build you’ll have to source some longer hex head socket cap screws and nylon spacers from the hardware store
The size you will need is a M6-1.00 x 50 stainless steel hex head socket cap screws. I was also able to get two black nylon spacers but I had to cut them down to equal the same length as the two doubled up spacers that Clearwater provided.
M6-1.00 x 50 Socket Cap Screw DIN 912 18-8 (A2) Stainless Steel
M6-1.00 x 50 Socket Cap Screw DIN 912 18-8 (A2) Stainless Steel . Socket Cap Screws in 18-8 (A2) Stainless Steel by Brighton Best. Conform to DIN 912.
www.fmwfasteners.com
Those are exactly the ones I got from a local hardware store
ThanksThis was a very easy install. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine.
The only hiccup I ran into was for the mount but as Pashnit mentioned in his gen 3 Busa build you’ll have to source some longer hex head socket cap screws and nylon spacers from the hardware store
The size you will need is a M6-1.00 x 50 stainless steel hex head socket cap screws. I was also able to get two black nylon spacers but I had to cut them down to equal the same length as the two doubled up spacers that Clearwater provided.
M6-1.00 x 50 Socket Cap Screw DIN 912 18-8 (A2) Stainless Steel
M6-1.00 x 50 Socket Cap Screw DIN 912 18-8 (A2) Stainless Steel . Socket Cap Screws in 18-8 (A2) Stainless Steel by Brighton Best. Conform to DIN 912.
Those are exactly the ones I got from a local hardware store
Cruising180
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Is that seat any thicker/taller than the stock one?
dcnblues
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Loosened the chain. Bike went in for new tires and the brake recall, came back with a too tight chain. It was on the tight end of the spec, which is too tight for me. Once you see how loose race chains are set, you realize there's no call to have them that tight. I can feel the poor expensive metal stretching with every flex of the swing arm.
Didn't realize Gen 2 and 3 busas don't come with cotter pins on the axle anymore. I guess if it got loose enough you really would feel the wobble before the nut actually fell off. And when I read about chain stretch, I always thought that under extreme tension the links actually did stretch. But they don't. The rollers over time cut into the links and collectively the chain gets longer. Not stretching at all.
I get the people who want a tight chain and aftermarket (harder) cush drives, especially for drag applications, but I ride with a softer touch and almost never quick shift hard up through the gears. I understand computer ignition cutouts and transmission design mean that you can do so without damaging the transmission, but it just feels like you're being too hard on your baby. I'm also just a miser, and use steel sprockets (supersprox rear) that will last as long as the chain, which I'm hoping to get 20-25,000 out of. Emphasis on quick shifters, no offense, seems a bit lazy in that I value the talent to be able to shift smoothly without one, and possibly even without synchromesh. Maybe it's just me but the technology seems to lessen the concentration and pleasure of matching revs smoothly while balancing the bike left and right and forward and back through the curves. Anyway now the chain matches the rest of the bikes perfection...
Didn't realize Gen 2 and 3 busas don't come with cotter pins on the axle anymore. I guess if it got loose enough you really would feel the wobble before the nut actually fell off. And when I read about chain stretch, I always thought that under extreme tension the links actually did stretch. But they don't. The rollers over time cut into the links and collectively the chain gets longer. Not stretching at all.
I get the people who want a tight chain and aftermarket (harder) cush drives, especially for drag applications, but I ride with a softer touch and almost never quick shift hard up through the gears. I understand computer ignition cutouts and transmission design mean that you can do so without damaging the transmission, but it just feels like you're being too hard on your baby. I'm also just a miser, and use steel sprockets (supersprox rear) that will last as long as the chain, which I'm hoping to get 20-25,000 out of. Emphasis on quick shifters, no offense, seems a bit lazy in that I value the talent to be able to shift smoothly without one, and possibly even without synchromesh. Maybe it's just me but the technology seems to lessen the concentration and pleasure of matching revs smoothly while balancing the bike left and right and forward and back through the curves. Anyway now the chain matches the rest of the bikes perfection...
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