Just want some opinions on a 1/4 mile setup thats easy on parts and easy to get down the track, stock motor 2000 busa. Things like launch rpm with air shifter, top rpm limit, gearing, extensions, what chain your using, 2 step settings, ect. My local track is brackets and cant really afford tons of electronics, so consistant times are gonna be important. Just want to have fun racing and not go broke in the process.
Bulletproof setup
- Thread starter Brian
- Start date
You'll get quite a few opinions but I'd suggest:
clutch mod (1 piece hub).
Lowering the bike 2 inches.
Extending it 3-4”. This is a bit more conservative to maintain traction without having to replace a stock shock/spring. 3” over is easily manageable on a stock GenI . Find a stock GenII shock to buy if you weigh over 200#s for a cheap upgrade.
Seat Pan or cut down seat
Skip the 2 step without a wheelie bar. It is tough to find the sweet spot at the lower rpms.
Launching 3000-4500 depending on what ends up working good for you.
16/41-43 gearing depending on your weight. Gear to top out in 4th gear in the ¼ mile
EK ZZZ or ZVX chain
Shift @ 10200 (10400-10500 which will show 10.4-10.5 on your tach)
Run a Autoshift module if your track rules will allow it.
Run an adjustable clutch lever and further build a stop for it. You only want to pull it in enough to completely disengage the clutch. I had a thread on the one I made somewhere.
Look at Smiths shift light. It can be configured as a launch light, shift light, and autoshift for an affordable price. The launch light is much easier to watch when staging than the tach.
Clutch stack at 1.98 to 2.00” and fresh stock springs with .180” spacers.
Limit strap for the front
clutch mod (1 piece hub).
Lowering the bike 2 inches.
Extending it 3-4”. This is a bit more conservative to maintain traction without having to replace a stock shock/spring. 3” over is easily manageable on a stock GenI . Find a stock GenII shock to buy if you weigh over 200#s for a cheap upgrade.
Seat Pan or cut down seat
Skip the 2 step without a wheelie bar. It is tough to find the sweet spot at the lower rpms.
Launching 3000-4500 depending on what ends up working good for you.
16/41-43 gearing depending on your weight. Gear to top out in 4th gear in the ¼ mile
EK ZZZ or ZVX chain
Shift @ 10200 (10400-10500 which will show 10.4-10.5 on your tach)
Run a Autoshift module if your track rules will allow it.
Run an adjustable clutch lever and further build a stop for it. You only want to pull it in enough to completely disengage the clutch. I had a thread on the one I made somewhere.
Look at Smiths shift light. It can be configured as a launch light, shift light, and autoshift for an affordable price. The launch light is much easier to watch when staging than the tach.
Clutch stack at 1.98 to 2.00” and fresh stock springs with .180” spacers.
Limit strap for the front
listen to the Professor he knows a thing or two about this "stuff". 
Very nice pointers
kill box info
hi PROFESSOR any tips on best millisecond settings for engine kill boxs for busa oo
hi PROFESSOR any tips on best millisecond settings for engine kill boxs for busa oo
Re: kill box info
not answering for the Professor... I would think milliseconds has a few variables such as nitrogen vs. compressed air system, hose length, shift solenoid placement, and ram all play a part. Give yourself some extra time on a stock trans and slowly dial it down.
not answering for the Professor... I would think milliseconds has a few variables such as nitrogen vs. compressed air system, hose length, shift solenoid placement, and ram all play a part. Give yourself some extra time on a stock trans and slowly dial it down.
Commuta_Busa nailed the answer.
My setup is a bit different than most. Most kill the ignition at the same time they are making the shift. I went a bit of a different route that is unique to the way most people do it. (better or worse, I don’t know) I use an adjustable pressure switch in the line going to the ram. I initiate the shift. Once the pressure comes up to the set amount the “kill†is activated. This allows a bit of preload and eliminates some lag time. I was using the PCIII to kill the fuel instead of the more common ignition kills. I’d have to dig into some notes for specific times, but it wouldn’t carry over well to the conventional methods used. It performed well. Nice clean, quick, “pop less†shifts, and the stock transmission looked good after a few hundred passes. I was able to tighten the time a bit when I swapped in a custom transmission. Theoretically in my mind this method uses less kill time.
As for initiating the auto shift, I used the PCIII/USB hub combo. This way I could fire it based on rpm AND throttle position. I’ve seen a couple of un manned dragbikes launched by mistake in the pits with a whack of the throttle. I also ran a single pole double throw micro switch with a center off as a mode selector. Center off, front button shift, rear auto shift. I included a diode which would allow me to button shift override even in auto mode.
Had ECU editing been available when I did all of this, I may have had a different setup.
My setup is a bit different than most. Most kill the ignition at the same time they are making the shift. I went a bit of a different route that is unique to the way most people do it. (better or worse, I don’t know) I use an adjustable pressure switch in the line going to the ram. I initiate the shift. Once the pressure comes up to the set amount the “kill†is activated. This allows a bit of preload and eliminates some lag time. I was using the PCIII to kill the fuel instead of the more common ignition kills. I’d have to dig into some notes for specific times, but it wouldn’t carry over well to the conventional methods used. It performed well. Nice clean, quick, “pop less†shifts, and the stock transmission looked good after a few hundred passes. I was able to tighten the time a bit when I swapped in a custom transmission. Theoretically in my mind this method uses less kill time.
As for initiating the auto shift, I used the PCIII/USB hub combo. This way I could fire it based on rpm AND throttle position. I’ve seen a couple of un manned dragbikes launched by mistake in the pits with a whack of the throttle. I also ran a single pole double throw micro switch with a center off as a mode selector. Center off, front button shift, rear auto shift. I included a diode which would allow me to button shift override even in auto mode.
Had ECU editing been available when I did all of this, I may have had a different setup.
B-12
Registered
Thats the way i did it , and helped me a lot
Shiftlight is a great help.
3.500 and 16-42 works best for me (170lbs with complete gear)
@proff
do you have a link to the stop of the clutch lever , cant find it.
well you guys the setup is nos 40 shot with cams 6, inch stretch , drop 2 inch , back shock done,mps air shifter and kill boxs to horn, clutch inner and springs with pc111 till i get other pc111 with hub of other busa which is turbo ,just getting the head round set up for dyno.
I could not either. I did find my pictures though.
Pictures. Also a picture of the clutch switch so you can modify its position. You'll need that with a launch light or a 2 step.
This is with a long Pazzo, I think you could easily reverse it for a shorty.
Maybe we could get Tiger to build some.
This is with a long Pazzo, I think you could easily reverse it for a shorty.
Maybe we could get Tiger to build some.
Ask me how I know 
holeshot kid
Banned
You dont need top ent rpm limiter bike already has that.
I use this launch rpm
2-Step, Launch Master, Suzuki Hayabusa - MSD
I use schnitz electric shifter
tHen I use mps hydraulic clutch release to release clutch from button on top yellow + activate this crossover delay box.Last 4 years i have taken 2 points championships+3,d last year with this setup.I go 2 a bracket race im not going 2 donate my $$$ im going there 2 win the thing.
MPS Hydraulic Clutch Release
You need prob braided steel line 2 install that.
MPS Hydraulic Clutch Release
I use this launch rpm
2-Step, Launch Master, Suzuki Hayabusa - MSD
I use schnitz electric shifter
tHen I use mps hydraulic clutch release to release clutch from button on top yellow + activate this crossover delay box.Last 4 years i have taken 2 points championships+3,d last year with this setup.I go 2 a bracket race im not going 2 donate my $$$ im going there 2 win the thing.
MPS Hydraulic Clutch Release
You need prob braided steel line 2 install that.
MPS Hydraulic Clutch Release
I don't guess I understand your question on the clutch switch? Yes, the factory switch is there and can be used. That picture I posted is the factory switch. The problem is you have to pull the lever almost all the way to the bar to trip the micro switch. If you are using a bar bike it is not that bigh a deal, you are likely throwing away the lever. With a non-bar bike you are making a smooth release especially on a stock wheelbase . You want that transition to be perfect. For reaction time consistency you want that initial movement to be the same each and every time. If you have to pull it to the bar and deal with 1/4-1/2†of travel it is difficult to get there.
The mod I did allow you to adjust the point the switch activates to fall in the correct spot when you do the above.
90% of the races are won in two places. The reaction time and the 60’. The rest is making your shift points and the bike performing the same per run. Very small changes in the 60’ will turn into big numbers at the end. My bike was consistent enough in 60’s that reaction time was a big deal to me.
Spend some time getting these things right and it will pay off in the long run.
I see you moved the microswitch in relation to the lever for quick deactivation of launch rpm limit, I think i understand now, lever to the point that clutch is almost grabbing nd microswitch almost ready to click at that point, cool Ill check mine out tonight in garage and build a stop also
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