2000 hayabusa has been sitting about 4.5 years

Also, we don't know the mileage - Original tires would be a problem even if the tread is good. If the brake liningsare in good shape and the calipers aren't frozen or rusted they need not be replaced- but clutch and brake fluid should be changed out.
 
i think they've about got you covered then...the only reason i mentioned testing the brakes was a ride a friend and i had when we were 17, we lost the brakes in an old Studebaker truck he was in the process of fixing up as we were approaching a turn (i was sitting on a milk crate on the passenger side holding the gas can with a hose which ran to the motor)...made for an interesting experience :laugh:

congrats on the great find :beerchug:
 
semi said:
i think they've about got you covered then...the only reason i mentioned testing the brakes was a ride a friend and i had when we were 17, we lost the brakes in an old Studebaker truck he was in the process of fixing up as we were approaching a turn (i was sitting on a milk crate on the passenger side holding the gas can with a hose which ran to the motor)...made for an interesting experience :laugh:

congrats on the great find :beerchug:
Click to expand...

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: WTF!!! :rofl:
 
yeh it was outside but had a few covers on it.. the bike was in perfect running condition before being stored but the last rider did something to the brakes so it needs to be replaced. but thank you everybody for all the help
 
I'd change all fluids, and flush all lines. Remove the gas tank and rinse it with fresh gas then drain, then re-fill with fresh again with some fuel injector cleaner added (if you don't want to remove them and soak them in some B-12...remove o-rings first). Remove plugs, clean or replace them & check gap. Like mentioned before I'd squirt a little WD-40 or some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder...not too much. When you put fresh oil & filter in, and with the spark plugs still out...I'd engage the starter for 3~5 sec. bursts and see if you can get the engine oil pressure light to extinguish. If all goes well, put the plugs back in, & fire it up...let it sit and listen for anything abnormal. Make sure oil pressure light is extinguished and I'd let it sit till it fully warmed up and the fans kicked on. If all clear...get on it and take it for a spin around the block to aid cooling it off and check brakes, clutch, gears etc...

After that amount of time I'd definitely put some new tires on it before getting it out on the open road for riding...I wouldn't trust them, they might be flat spotted from sitting that long and be out of balance as well.

Good luck, post back with some results!!
 
heres a pic i got of the bike yesterday

IMG00693-20110128-1332.jpg
 
That's not a factory color(at least in the U.S), but it's different, I really like it.:beerchug: And for FREE!!!
 
All the above and> New tires,rad flush and new fluid,new battery,new oil and filter,as said I would put wd40 in the spark plug holes and turn it over on the battery charger..open the airbox and make sure nothing crawled in there and probably a new filter in there also,then new spark plugs check gas tank for rust and fresh gas and give it a try!!

make sure the battery is new and even then maybe on the charger dont let the older busa kick back due to low battery!!

I would run it after a few miles and then change the oil and filter again..

Lucky find free busa!!


ps. a good back rub for Your GF a nice dinner and some flowers would be good idea also!!!!
 
Drain the fuel system completely. Remove the tank and sending unit. I would clean the screen. New tires. The chain, sprockets don't go bad from sitting unless the chain is rusted bad. Change the oil, remove the sparkplugs and squirt alittle oil into each cylinder. I would try to turn the engine over by hand with the plugs removed. Change the coolant after you get the bike running.

Unbolt each caliper one at a time to check the cylinders and operation. Use a paint mixing stick in place of the rotor while holding the caliper in hand. Your looking for smooth operation of each bore and possibly any sticking/stuck brake cylinders. If you do find a slow working cylinder, fear not. Alot of times you can use some brake clean and a small brush to clean around the exposed cylinder and get it working again. What you do to clean that one cylinder is to remove the brake pads, insert something like a piece of wood,rubber or whatever to hold back all the cylinders you want to stay in place. Then work the brake lever to push the dirty cylinder out but not all the way out.. Then spray it with brakeclean, use a small brush to clean and hit it again with the brakeclean. Blow it dry and use alittle dialectic grease around the cylinder and slide it back in straight. Wipe the excess. There you go! You repaired a dirty brake cylinder and have a good working brake caliper.
 
:thumbsup:my busa stood around for years before i bought it 3000 miles in 10 years it did get a yearly run of about 3.5 miles for 3-4 years for mot was left on life support so battery was good only had 2 problems with it coolant boiled for fun first couple of rides solution flushed twice and changed all good since the other problem six pots were none exsistant this is an on going problem ditching the six pots in favour of 4 pots to save the hassle of going through them again been through new lines ,master cylinder overall the calipers have been stripped numerous times all seals and pistons replaced hope you have more luck with the brakes

the rest of the bikes sweet bearings were a little stiff on the front after 14000 miles but thats just normal maintenance really

so hopefully your bill wont be so big good luck with it
 
busabeast2000 said:
thank you for all the help so far, its all around the idea of what i figured needed to be done.. to make sure the engine still spins i put it in 2nd and push it around right? (i heard tht from some other forum)
Click to expand...

I would put it in 5th or sixth and it will be alot easier to push and make sure it will turn over and :welcome: to the org.
 
You lucky SOB. My condolences to your GF. You better treat her right. I have a 2000 Busa that sat around for about 2.5 years as I had to have brain surgery and wasn't allowed to drive or ride while on anti-seizure meds. The fuel tank got a lot of surface rust inside I suspect from the Florida humidity (Jacksonville, in my garage) even though I would crank it up and run it up to temp every month or so with stabil in the fuel. You may be lucky if he stored it with ethanol free gas in it and stabilizer. I would definitely drain the fuel anyway, just prop the tank up with the prop rod under the rear seat (in case you didn't know. Clamp the hose coming from the fuel outlet/petcock near the tank and remove it from the pump module. Put a shop rag under the hoses (on top of the transmission) to keep gas off of the chain first. then with an extension hose you can drain it into a gas can. If it doesn't smell bad like turpentine or a sweet smell then you could probably run it through your car if you drive it enough to burn it out. To change the fuel filter is no easy task, you have to remove and disassemble the fuel pump module to get to it. But it's right under the end cap. You'll need some o-rings if you do it too. If it gets to this point, I hope you have a shop manual. I had to gently pry up on the fuel injector rail to get the socket on the bolts that hold the pump module bracket even with a 1/4" thinwall socket, but be gentle it's plastic. I wouldn't bother with it unless the tank has some rust inside, you can always change it later if it bogs when you rev or accellerate, to get the old gas out of the pump module just cycle the key on and off a few times and it will return to the tank and bring fresh gas in. Same with the spark plugs unless they were scheduled to be changed by mileage anyway. There is a pressure relief screw on the high pressure hose fitting on the pump module to relieve pressure from the fuel rail. Grind the tip down on a phillips screwdriver or driver bit to make a makeshift JIS driver (Google it for explaination) for the screws. The rest is just going through the maintenance schedule, oil, brake fluids, coolant, chain lube, tires if needed, check the brakes for sticking. Yes, as someone else posted check the air filter for rat/mouse living quarters and a battery is probably a must. While you have the air box off maybe shoot a little marvel oil or motor oil down the intake ports to lube the rings on start up.

My 2000 had an issue with a thick buildup of gum in the throttle bodies so I started using SeaFoam fuel additive and it has removed it all from the intake ports and backs of the valves, it was THICK. The throttle was hard to open and would stick open. Remember the stand has to be up to start it if not in neutral. If you've never ridden a really fast bike be careful, they do 90 mph in first gear, it's easy to do some serious speed, you don't just whack the throttle open on these, mine will usually either stand up or spin the rear wheel with full throttle.
 
Dang, after all that I just realized how old this post is. So, did you marry her, get it running, crash it, sell it, What's the story??? At least others will benefit from the info.:moon:
 
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