Mine is actually less! 3.75"
Mine is actually less! 3.75"
Is the preload set on the lowest setting?
Haven't fiddled with it...
EDIT: they were 2clicks away from max hard (clockwise). I backed them off 3 clicks counterclockwise.
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No, preload is the hex, not the flatblade screwdriver adjustment in the center of it, which is compression or rebound, I can't remember which of those 2 is on the top or the bottom on the Gen1 forks.
You turn the hex for preload, and there will be 5 lines visible at the softest setting, turn them in and add preload to the spring, and it will feel more firm, and as of the front end is sitting higher.
Less preload and the forks will 'sag' more.
Nope
Just make sure they are both the same, run them all the way either direction, and count your number of turns.
Put them both with only 2 lines showing, go for a ride, and you'll know if it's too much or needs more.
The compression and rebound adjuster, top and bottom should around be 3 to 4 turns counter clockwise from fully to the right, but only adjust one of these 3 settings at a time(equally on both sides) or you will chase you tail trying to figure out what you just did.
You can't screw it up, you just start over.
And turning any to fully either direction, then the other, gives you a good idea of what you just did, then you can slowly start coming back the other way.
This is best done on the side of the road or a parking lot too, ride for as long as it takes to notice your change, then stop and adjust.
The rear is done just the same too, only you need a spanner wrench to fit the lock rings on top of the shock.
For most guys in the 170-200lb range, 3 lines of threads visible above the top lock ring is a good place to start.
And the compression and rebound will be in the 12-18 turns counter clockwise.
Do your forks first, then move to the rear, or vice versa, and again, only one of the 3 adjustments at a time.
Also
For the rear preload, spray wd-40, or some type of penatrating oil on the threads, only a small amount, and a toothbrush works good to clean the threads.
Even a small amount of road dirt will grind into the threads, and make it much more difficult to turn.
The top ring just prevents the lower ring from moving, so the top ring should spin up the threads and out of the way easily.
The lower ring is what adds or removes preload to the spring as you turn it.
For the rear preload, spray wd-40, or some type of penatrating oil on the threads, only a small amount, and a toothbrush works good to clean the threads.
Even a small amount of road dirt will grind into the threads, and make it much more difficult to turn.
The top ring just prevents the lower ring from moving, so the top ring should spin up the threads and out of the way easily.
The lower ring is what adds or removes preload to the spring as you turn it.
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