2008 problems...PLEASE HELP

K

Kitcheneater

Registered
I had to buy a new battery for my 08', when I did it ran fine. Recently, i had to re program my remote for my alarm (scorpio) which was a pain! Ever since, it sounds like the bike is running "off" timing maybe? I have a PCIIIUSB, not to up to speed on it though. I bought the bike new but mod'ed, so im learnign as i go here. I havent messed with any wires besides the alarm connectors for the tail light splice. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO! I plugged the PCIII into my laptop and it is still showing the map that was loaded. PLEASE HELP....thanks all:please::banghead::bowdown:
 
what mods are currently on the bike (exhaust? air filter?). Is map custom dyno'd for the bike or generic/canned from Dynojet?
 
Kitcheneater said:
and exhaust...forgot to add that
Click to expand...

I think he was wanting to know what type of exhaust you had...

So what all is involved in the re-programming of the remote?

OK, so...you had to reprogram the remote and replace the battery...is there something prior to this that you're leaving out? Did it sit for an extended period of time prior to you replacing it, or did the battery just die?
 
the batt did go dead, i replaced it and it ran great! I had to re-program my alarm remote. After that, (which i doubt has anything to do with this,maybe so...tho) and all of a sudden it runs like ****. sounds like a damn dirt bike, timing? plugs? fuel injectors? its a ti force exhaust. did all MX myself never tuned up has 7k on her. Everything has professionally installed.
 
hmmmmm. Ive had plenty of gas ran through it, its been running great for 3 months! is there a fuel additive that i can add to gas to clean injectors??
 
i tried injector cleaner, NOTHING. Could it be bad gas? i went through a whole tank...and its sittin on E at the moment. so frustrated!!:banghead::banghead:
 
check the plugs. 7k miles couldnt hurt to replace them. with you saying it sounds like a dirtbike sounds like you may have a fouled plug or two.
 
If the FI light isn't on, it's unlikely it is showing any codes, but it can't hurt to check. Under the driver seat behind the battery there is a white plug. Take the cap off, use a piece of wire to jump the black/white and red/white wires(neither are hot with a test light). The key must be on, but you can put the jumper in before you turn it on.
If there is a code, it will display C and a number at the bottom of the center display.
If there is one, you can search here for the list explaining them, or just post it up and someone will get it for you. Good luck.

wire%20jump.JPG
 
sixpack577 said:
If the FI light isn't on, it's unlikely it is showing any codes, but it can't hurt to check. Under the driver seat behind the battery there is a white plug. Take the cap off, use a piece of wire to jump the black/white and red/white wires(neither are hot with a test light). The key must be on, but you can put the jumper in before you turn it on.
If there is a code, it will display C and a number at the bottom of the center display.
If there is one, you can search here for the list explaining them, or just post it up and someone will get it for you. Good luck.
Click to expand...

That picture shows the plug with the cap on, it's much easier if you simply take it off.
 
thanks fellas! but i got frustrated as all hell and brought her in to a shop to get looked at, Alaska's summers are short and i need to get some good ridding in before she gets stored.
 
anything is possible.. next you/they have to perform a "leakdown" test. this will test the health of THAT cylinder and the rest.

basics of the test.. requires a kit, air compressor. wrist watch.

come to TDC on the cylinder being tested.. during the combustion stroke the all the valves are closed allowing you to pressurize the cylinder

once its pressurized the kit will tell you how long it should hold pressure for. the service manual may touch on this also. I can't see/check the manual with my phone Sry.

then listen: if air is escaping u cab hear it at the exhaust or the oil fill cap.. place Ur hand over the hole for a few seconds allowing pressure to build behind your hand. when u remove it, if your hear a hiss or a pisst then your valves are leaking AIR.

IF no sound of air at either end then your piston rings could be bad. at 7k its not likely.

check anyway: back to compression testing. place 2cap fills of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. redo the compression test. if psi change dramaticly then piston rings and maybe sleeve damage.

Check and adjust valves.. repeat testing

remove head. visually check cylinders/pistons for damage

piston damage can easily happen when hot rodding a cold motor..

valves: so many things can go wrong with them: cams, cam chain, tensioner, springs, seats, shims, debris and on and on.

I got my leak down kit from harbor freight cheap as well as my compression tester.. they both work well.

goodluck.

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
 
ok i'm awake now....
quick change to above... when listening for air from the "fill plug" it may not(pretty sure) work on bikes. BECAUSE on a car the oil fill plug is above the valves. so you would be able to hear the hiss at the fill cap..
on OUR bikes "sealed valve cover" this may have to be done with the cover removed.

in the manual for k8 under general info-service data

compression pressure 199-256(normal operation) limit 142(worst it could possibly be and still
be called "good")

presure difference 28psi(meaning from the losest psi pistion to the highest there can be 28psi difference)

to me 28psi is ALOT if your a racer. where engine health is very important. but for the everyday rider if the manual says 28 is good.. then i would say its good for me.

what did your shop say the other pistons meassured?
 
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