43 sprocket

Hayabusa-J.R.

Registered
hey guys just got back from ricky gadson's sportbike zone in jersey.i had put on a 43 tooth rear,all i hear is holy cow its awesome i pull major wheelies now etc.,well i'm dissapointed a lil it puts it in better shape and not so tall of gears,but WAY overhyped on the power.so i am getting it done a ricky comes in,we get to talkin and he even said it's nice but he doesn't know about all the extra snap your head off power.don't get me wrong i like it but i was a lil to excited i guess thats all by the way he had is zx14 in the shop and we talked all about.if u have any ? about what he said about it vs. the busa,let me know in this topic i'll answer,we talked for about 25 min.i don't want to type it all down.
 
Add a 16 tooth front. It'll make the Busa alot more peppy.
 
i went with 16/42 it realys comes out of the hole. but lowers your top end down to 180. but i`ve already have 4 points.so top end does not matter right now. how fast can i get to 70
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thanks for the reply gmbusa another thing guys everyone said my rpm's would be higher well they are in the same spot at consant 80 on the highway down the rpm's were at 4100,on the way back the same is it because my mph gauge is way off now,and if so why did everyone say it would be higher because mine is the same as it was before.
 
Never heard of 43tooth.... Isn't gadson a Kawi Mark? If so they were prolly trying to slow down another Busa...
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16/42 is supposed to be the e-ticket....
 
well it certainly isnt like adding a turbo or something. If you had raced a stock geared busa in a roll on you would have noticed the difference. I have 16/43 and think its too low , going 17/43.
 
hmmm....I'm still running stock sprockets on my busa but am going to a 43T rear and speedohealer and am hoping it won't be "Too Twitchy" for the twisties...I went 2 teeth up on the rear on my old ZRX and it felt like 5ftlbs were added across the board...and my old FZ1?...that sucker was already making 138rwhp when I then went from stock 16:44 too 15:45 sprocketing and from 0-100?..and that little addition made my FZ fairly sick...snap wheelies @ 5Krpms and rip yer shoulders acceleration to about 120mph...butcha didn't hafta strain to hold on for too long cause...ya got there quick..real quick.

btw...your tach and speedo are electronic and aren't aware you swapped sprockets...correct the speedo with a speedohealer and your tach will then show the appropriate revs per mph.

L8R, Bill.
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I was tired of doing too much shifting at relaxed acceleration type paces. I went up a tooth on the front to an 18. It stretched out the gearing quite nicely. I found myself going from 1st to 3rd, then 5th and then 6th. Now I can run through the gears and actually use each one longer than a second or two. Did it slow it down off the line? Not at all. It's still so fast its sick- after all, we *are* talking about a Hayabusa.
 
thanks for the reply gmbusa another thing guys everyone said my rpm's would be higher well they are in the same spot at consant 80 on the highway down the rpm's were at 4100,on the way back the same is it because my mph gauge is way off now,and if so why did everyone say it would be higher because mine is the same as it was before.
The tach and speedo relationship remain the same due to the speedo picking up its speedo pulses from the countersprocket. If speed was detected from a wheel, then the correlation between tach and speedo would have changed but never when picked up from the countersprocket. The countersprocket method of detecting speed requires a correction device such as a Speedo Healer or Yellowbox to make corrections to the speedo, which would then show a difference between indicated RPM and speed on your gauges when making gearing changes.

This issue is often questioned and can be a bit difficult to envision as to why the tach and speedo remain the same after changing gearing. Allow me to provide a scenario which should help in understanding why this is so.

Let's use the following numbers to make things easier to understand:

Let's assume the transmission is appropriately geared so a countersprocket of 20 teeth and a rear sprocket of 20 teeth (a simple 1:1 ratio) produces a true 60 MPH at 4,000 engine RPM while in 6th gear. Let us also assume that the speedo sensor detects 1,000 pulses per minute at 60 MPH. Notice that the ratio between engine RPM and detected speedo pulses is a 4:1 ratio. 4,000/1,000 = 4:1

With a 1:1 primary/secondary gear ratio (20/20 gearing), each time the rear wheel completes one full rotation, the counter sprocket has also completed one full rotation.

Now let's change the rear sprocket to 40 teeth yielding a 2:1 ratio (leaving the countersprocket 20 teeth). Realizes this 2:1 ratio requires doubling the engine RPM to accomplish the same 60 MPH speed as each time the countersprocket completes one full rotation, it only spins the rear tire half a rotation (therefore only half the distance, which equates to half the speed), therefore, the countersprocket would have to have its speed doubled to achieve the same 60 MPH with this 2:1 gearing ratio. The only way to double the countersprocket's speed in 6th gear is to double the engine RPM. So now we are at 8,000 engine RPM when traveling at 60 MPH.

Since the countersprocket's speed has been doubled to produce the same 60 MPH speed, we now detect twice as many speedo pulses at the same speed which is now 2,000 pulses detected per minute. Notice the ratio between engine RPM and detected speedo pulses remains exactly the same (a 4:1 ratio). This is why changing gearing does not alter the relationship between speedo and tach when the speed is detected from the countersprocket.

No matter what actual gearing you elect to employ, the ratio between engine RPM and detected countersprocket pulses remains the same.

Looking at it from the rear wheel's rotational speed (using the 20/40 gearing) to actually produce 60 MPH, each time the rear wheel rotates one time, the countersprocket must rotate twice, producing twice as many pulses at the same given rear wheel speed required to produce 60 MPH. Since the countersprocket clearly spins twice as fast, so too must the engine (now 8,000-RPM to achieve 60 MPH). The ratio of 8,000 engine RPM to 2,000 speedo pulses remains a 4:1 ratio therefore, from the speedo and tach's perspective, all appears unchanged even though a drastic reduction in gearing has been made.

Hopefully, this has made this issue easier to comprehend.



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thanks for the reply gmbusa another thing guys everyone said my rpm's would be higher well they are in the same spot at consant 80 on the highway down the rpm's were at 4100,on the way back the same is it because my mph gauge is way off now,and if so why did everyone say it would be higher because mine is the same as it was before.
The tach and speedo relationship remain the same due to the speedo picking up its speedo pulses from the countersprocket. If speed was detected from a wheel, then the correlation between tach and speedo would have changed but never when picked up from the countersprocket. The countersprocket method of detecting speed requires a correction device such as a Speedo Healer or Yellowbox to make corrections to the speedo, which would then show a difference between indicated RPM and speed on your gauges when making gearing changes.

This issue is often questioned and can be a bit difficult to envision as to why the tach and speedo remain the same after changing gearing. Allow me to provide a scenario which should help in understanding why this is so.

Let's use the following numbers to make things easier to understand:

Let's assume the transmission is appropriately geared so a countersprocket of 20 teeth and a rear sprocket of 20 teeth (a simple 1:1 ratio) produces a true 60 MPH at 4,000 engine RPM while in 6th gear. Let us also assume that the speedo sensor detects 1,000 pulses per minute at 60 MPH. Notice that the ratio between engine RPM and detected speedo pulses is a 4:1 ratio. 4,000/1,000 = 4:1

With a 1:1 primary/secondary gear ratio (20/20 gearing), each time the rear wheel completes one full rotation, the counter sprocket has also completed one full rotation.

Now let's change the rear sprocket to 40 teeth yielding a 2:1 ratio (leaving the countersprocket 20 teeth). Realizes this 2:1 ratio requires doubling the engine RPM to accomplish the same 60 MPH speed as each time the countersprocket completes one full rotation, it only spins the rear tire half a rotation (therefore only half the distance, which equates to half the speed), therefore, the countersprocket would have to have its speed doubled to achieve the same 60 MPH with this 2:1 gearing ratio. The only way to double the countersprocket's speed in 6th gear is to double the engine RPM. So now we are at 8,000 engine RPM when traveling at 60 MPH.

Since the countersprocket's speed has been doubled to produce the same 60 MPH speed, we now detect twice as many speedo pulses at the same speed which is now 2,000 pulses detected per minute. Notice the ratio between engine RPM and detected speedo pulses remains exactly the same (a 4:1 ratio). This is why changing gearing does not alter the relationship between speedo and tach when the speed is detected from the countersprocket.

No matter what actual gearing you elect to employ, the ratio between engine RPM and detected countersprocket pulses remains the same.

Looking at it from the rear wheel's rotational speed (using the 20/40 gearing) to actually produce 60 MPH, each time the rear wheel rotates one time, the countersprocket must rotate twice, producing twice as many pulses at the same given rear wheel speed required to produce 60 MPH. Since the countersprocket clearly spins twice as fast, so too must the engine (now 8,000-RPM to achieve 60 MPH). The ratio of 8,000 engine RPM to 2,000 speedo pulses remains a 4:1 ratio therefore, from the speedo and tach's perspective, all appears unchanged even though a drastic reduction in gearing has been made.

Hopefully, this has made this issue easier to comprehend.
Very comprehensive explanation. Now, I have heard people mention here that their odometer either runs slower or faster (I do not remember which) after the speedohealer installation. Why would that be? Wouldn't the odometer be running in reference to the speedo?
It just does not make sense to me.

thanks in advance.

regards,
Jim
 
I'm running 16/43 on my bike, but with it not being stock, I have nothing to compare it to. But it comes out of the hole like a rocket with this gearing over the stock setup, and 4th gear power wheelies are no problem
 
Very comprehensive explanation. Now, I have heard people mention here that their odometer either runs slower or faster (I do not remember which) after the speedohealer installation. Why would that be? Wouldn't the odometer be running in reference to the speedo?
It just does not make sense to me.

thanks in advance.

regards,
Jim[/QUOTE]
Your speedo sensor is on the couther shaft sprocket. It simply reads the number of revolutions of your counter shaft and converts it to MPH. It never changes. Accurate at any speed. The reason your speedo is inacurate at high speed is tire swell. The faster you go the more your tire swells in diameter thus making your speedo inacurate to some degree according to how fast you are going and how much air pressure you have in the rear tire. Your speedo will read differently between 30 psi and 42 psi. If you watch drag racing, just watch how much bigger drag slicks are at the finish line than at the launch?
 
If your looking for the violent nature like the current crop of liter bikes out there you won't get that from a near stock Busa. Think of the Busa as the older brother and the 1K and less cc sportbikes as hyperactive little kids.
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I'm running 16/43 on my bike, but with it not being stock, I have nothing to compare it to. But it comes out of the hole like a rocket with this gearing over the stock setup, and 4th gear power wheelies are no problem
4th gear power wheelies?
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Are you turbo?

edit... As I look at your sig line and see "Velocity/Garret powered"



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I compare the stock to 16/42 as a mature adult to a hyperactive child. Stock= fairly calm... 16/42= I WANNA WHEELIE, I WANNA WHEELIE!!!
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Very comprehensive explanation. Now, I have heard people mention here that their odometer either runs slower or faster (I do not remember which) after the speedohealer installation. Why would that be? Wouldn't the odometer be running in reference to the speedo?
It just does not make sense to me.

thanks in advance.

regards,
Jim
Your speedo sensor is on the couther shaft sprocket. It simply reads the number of revolutions of your counter shaft and converts it to MPH. It never changes. Accurate at any speed. The reason your speedo is inacurate at high speed is tire swell. The faster you go the more your tire swells in diameter thus making your speedo inacurate to some degree according to how fast you are going and how much air pressure you have in the rear tire. Your speedo will read differently between 30 psi and 42 psi. If you watch drag racing, just watch how much bigger drag slicks are at the finish line than at the launch?[/QUOTE]
Well, that is explained already to a degree. What I am asking is why would some people claim that after the speedohealer installation their odometer runs either fast or slow. This makes no sense since the healer fixed their speedometer and I suppose that the odometer runs off what the speedometer does.
The ratios and method of determining speed in these bikes is clear and easy to understand. What I am supposing is that the ones that say that their odometer is fast or slow are just talking of some apparent result. I would assume that once the speed ratio is corrected, the odometer would be accurate as well.

jd
 
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