50 mpg

When I got 52.7mph it was highway speed most of the time (75-80), and a little in town (400 mile total).

Stricit in town driving I get around 43-44. No mods done, just put slip on on today.
 
when i got my 50+ mpg, it was when i was going from cali to az... none stop highway driving. i was in 6th gear, at 85-90 mph, the whole way. now.. as far as me running around town and in the city and such, i average 35-39 mpg.
 
spig--

I normally get around 30-34, in fact, never got over 34.5MPG until I took her on a 200 mile   straight highway shot. I kept her at 80 in 6th nearly the entire way and I topped out at 44.8MPG.

I suppose if I was going 60MPH for the entire tank with a heavy tail wind I may make 50MPG.
I just checked mine, the average since I got it is around 38, average since last reset is 44.5. I haven't ridden extremely hard since last reset, but by far, I don't ride easy. That 38 includes several top speed runs and even more up to and over 150. Maybe there's something wrong with your bike. Did you make some drastic mods?

Kev
Nope. Bone stock.
 
I'm going to answer your question with a question. What rpm's are you shifting at? At 24mpg I'm going to guess your bike is wound out pretty good before you shift.
When I was experimenting, I shifted at 4500rpm and maxed out at 35mpg. That was done on the highway in two 15 mile sets (to and from work) for a week.

I now normally shift at 7000-8000 rpm and thats why I'm at 24.7, but while I was breaking it in I rarely went over 5000 and only managed to get it up to 28.5mpg.
 
Got a 5 mpg boost after doing a set of maintenance items . Cleaning air filter, spark plugs and feul injector micro filters. Adjusted the Thottle position sensor that was off. Installed a Active TRE. Adverage mpg went up from 36 mpg to 41 mpg. Use the torque keeping between 3-4k rpms. Stop-N-Go with waiting at signals, in traffic mileage drops to 34 mpg.
 
Got a 5 mpg boost after doing a set of maintenance items . Cleaning air filter, spark plugs and feul injector micro filters. Adjusted the Thottle position sensor that was off. Installed a Active TRE. Adverage mpg went up from 36 mpg to 41 mpg. Use the torque keeping between 3-4k rpms. Stop-N-Go with waiting at signals, in traffic mileage drops to 34 mpg.
how did you reset you throttle position sensor? I think mine might be off too, but I hear you have to take it to the dealer to have it adjusted...
 
I have seen members on this board getting 50 miles per gallon. I myself only get 35 at best. I filled my tank and restarted my trip. At 4500 rpm, I maxed out at 35. When I went above that, it began to drop. I have an '05 so its not like I need a tune-up. As a matter of fact I got the 600 mile service done 2 weeks ago, and now have 950ish miles total.

For the guys getting, oh about, 40+ mpg, at what RPM are you riding at?
If you are getting 50MPG chances are you ain't havin' much fun on your busa!
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I get about 30 creepn around town and that's just from start and stop and not gettn on it any, if i avoid town and stick to back roads or freeway I can stay up around 45 easy. both are shifting at around 5k. I dont think a 15 mile run is really enough to get a good average. normal thru the week commuting i get almost 160 miles a tank and my one way trip is 17 miles, backroads, freeway and then city. $12 a week to and from work sure beats $35 a week in my Silverado 2500HD, almost makes my bike payment!
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Quick overview what the Throttle Position Sensor (TSP) does.
TPS is mechanicaly connected to the Throttle Body butterfly valves. I think it's basically a potentiometer, variable resistor. Like the volume knob on a radio. Low volume at idle and highest volume when cranked up (Full throttle). Computer uses it's resistance to determine the position of the throttle.
The Computer uses the TPS and engine RPMs to set up a fuel map. Something adopted from early Bandit series bikes to meet emission standards. Now most bikes use this system of TPS and RPM to set up fuel mapping.
Calibration of the TPS to a idle speed. The computer has something to start it's mapping with.
TPS calibration process
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Have to pull the front seat and lift the gas tank. Locate the Deal Mode connector under the seat, on left side towards the back. See a rubber cap covered connector. Use a paper clip or similar thin wire to make a connection between two wires of the connector. This activates Dealer mode display on the Busa Dash. Normaly the display a -COO means everything is OK. The Throttle position uses the dashed line ( - ) before COO to adjust. Three displays _COO -COO and (dash line high) COO.
The Actual Throttle Position sensor is located on left side of the throttle body at the end of the butterfly rod. A small black plastic epoxy module. Mounted to the throttle body by two security torx screws. To adjust these screws have to be loosened, the entire sensor will turn clockwise/counterclockwise.
Need security torx bits, like those sold at Sears in a set of different sizes. The cramped quarters to access the torx screws only the small Bit ends will fit. Using a small mini crescent wrench to turn it is also required.
To calibrate the Throttle position sensor (TPS) first need to adjust the idle RPMs to 1150 rpms.
Watching the Display on the Busa Dash. Turn the TPS to display a -COO on the dash. A few second delay before the computer processes a turn on the TPS that'll show on the Dassh. It's very sensitive the slightest turning the TPS is all it takes. Once the display shows -COO then tighten the security torx. Double check it didn't go off calibration.
I would think a slight change in Air/Fuel mapping can be done by adjusting the TPS to the rich side of calibration. This helps for off idle hesitation and generaly runs better with a richened fuel mapping. Theory is using the TPS to shift a higher RPM fuel map to a lower RPM setting. Adjust the idle rpm to 1050 rpm and claibrating to -COO would do the trick.
BTW the Busa is running while all this is goin on
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The mileage variances are interesting, but I for one don't mind getting 32MPG at all... much better than lugging around at 4k rpm all day. If I wanted to do that I would by a harley.
 
Amazing topic to me.
Purchase the fastest production bike on the planet then worry about economy?
It has a gas gauge. When it gets below 1/4 stop at a gas station, slide your plastic & fill it up. Go back to having fun. Write a check once a month for the credit card bill.

BTW, if you ride a 2K in 6th in FL 2 things will happen. 1. You will get passed by every gypsy rig on the road. 2. You should put aside all the money you save on fuel because you will soon need to have the engine bored & new pistons installed. Lugging an engine in high gear kills pistons.

Just my opinion but I never follow the mainstream.
 
40 to 42 when I'm riding it around easily (with my friends on their Harleys)  it drops quickly with a twist of the right wrist oh and shifting before 4 grand all the way up and cruising around 3-4 grand



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33 to 35. However.....this is the most fun a guy can have for $2.15. Isn't it great? We can still haul A**, cause fear and discontent in others, and have a general great time all for a $10 bill....
 
I have made some mods
Yoshi full racing SS pipe
Pair valve
K&N filter
TRE
Power commander.

I have 450 miles on her and we went riding this weekend.  I gotta an average of 48 mpg.  Most speeds were in the 70's - 80's but did some runs up to 160 mph.



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I get on avg 36-38 in city riding. But when I hit the open hwy it's at 42 if IM just crusing at less than 5500RPM or 110 MPH. That all goes back down as soon as I open her up.
 
Amazing topic to me.
Purchase the fastest production bike on the planet then worry about economy?
I'm not worrying about economy, I'm worrying about my bike. During the first 300 miles or so (yeah, I know it supposed to be the 1st 600, but its a Hayabusa for pete sake), I never took it past 5000rpm and managed to get 28 mpg. Many people here average around 35 on theirs with top speed runs here and there. I started to think maybe there was something wrong with mine.
 
Amazing topic to me.
Purchase the fastest production bike on the planet then worry about economy?
I don't think anybody is really worried, I don't know anybody though that works for a living and likes throwing money out the window, no matter how little it is.

In addition, if all our bikes are similar, we should be able to attain similar fuel mileage, unless something is wrong.

Kev
 
I get 50MPG on the display after I reset it and am cruising at 75MPH on the superslab, and that's the only way. City or twisties forget it.
 
I read that you should (If trying for MPG) get up to the highest appropriate gear as soon as possible and not labour the beast in any of the lower gears. I prob get high 30 's low 40's but to be honest I don't really look at this unless my bike is showing signs of running out of order.
 
I think if you keep your speed at 60/70 mph you can achieve 45mpg and above. The second you twist the throttle you loose fuel efficiency but gain speed, it's a choice.
 
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