About Synthetic Oil

W

Wild Boar

Registered
The service writer at the Suzuki dealer told me not to use synthetic oil in my 2009 Busa. I was kinda surprised he said that , Something about it not being good for the clutch . Any of you guys ever hear that ? What do you use ?
Thanks,
W.B.
 
wild boar said:
the service writer at the suzuki dealer told me not to use synthetic oil in my 2009 busa. I was kinda surprised he said that , something about it not being good for the clutch . Any of you guys ever hear that ? What do you use ?
Thanks,
w.b.
Click to expand...

b.s....:welcome:
 
Wild Boar said:
The service writer at the Suzuki dealer told me not to use synthetic oil in my 2009 Busa. I was kinda surprised he said that , Something about it not being good for the clutch . Any of you guys ever hear that ? What do you use ?
Thanks,
W.B.
Click to expand...

Total BS

Wait until your bike has 2000-3000 miles and then use a good full synthetic...I recommend Mobil 1 4T 10w-40.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Personally, I believe when there is a motor that really needs carefull breaking-in, synthetic adds a further safety factor.
 
What about regular automobile synthetic? That is as long as it does not have energy saving rating. Anyone using it ? If so what do you think ?
 
jellyrug said:
Personally, I believe when there is a motor that really needs carefull breaking-in, synthetic adds a further safety factor.
Click to expand...

Correct and agree. Motorcycle JASO standards does not allow an oil to exceed their set ,dynamic , static friction index + a stop time index. Oils like the Mobil bike oil posted above do not have additional friction modifiers in them like some of the car oils. From the Energy Conserving 5w-20's to the 10w-40's and 20w-50' car oils - within a same company product line, most use the same friction modified additive pack in all viscosities. It's cheaper when blending and packaging the products.

I use real synthetic very early on to keep the ring pack clean since it handles high temps better than mineral oil and to help stop the 10 to 20 µm deep pits in the Hertzian contact band of the gear sets during run-in. I don't want those pits in my transmission gears and the PAO base oil in the synlube i use has around 6 times the film strength of a mineral oil and triple the anti-wear additives to help stop it. I could add more to the topic on how to run an engine in but, there's too much focus on piston ring seal and clutches only vs other matters like, camshaft protection. Kinda like worrying about the spider in the garden when there's a snake in the bed. :thumbsup:

Mobil 1 Synthetic Motor Oil is Factory Fill in 40 Plus Car Models and a bike engine manufacturer

Myths About Synthetic Motor Oils
 
Why is 10 w 40 ok for transmission in motorcycles and not transmission and differential gears in automobiles ? They require 80/90 weight gear oil.
 
Make sure you are using a motorcycle friendly oil. The wrong additives can hurt the clutch. I only run AMSOIL Full Synthetic. She get's abused on hte track and run hard on the road.

IMG_0619[1].jpg
 
BusaWhipped said:
Make sure you are using a motorcycle friendly oil. The wrong additives can hurt the clutch. I only run AMSOIL Full Synthetic. She get's abused on hte track and run hard on the road.
Click to expand...

It seems all over the internet in oil thread AMSOIL is still the most trusted and back up by the punishment the people put on their bikes that use AMSOIL
 
winlite said:
Why is 10 w 40 ok for transmission in motorcycles and not transmission and differential gears in automobiles ? They require 80/90 weight gear oil.
Click to expand...

All depends on the engineering and machining. The newer manual transmissions use lighter weight lubricants.
 
The guy who writes up a service ticket at a dealership may not be the best source for advice. At least the one you spoke with proved this. :laugh:
 
winlite said:
Why is 10 w 40 ok for transmission in motorcycles and not transmission and differential gears in automobiles ? They require 80/90 weight gear oil.
Click to expand...

The viscosities are close, but the additive packages are very different, as there is no combustion inside a gearbox.
 
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