I'm not a busa owner, yet. I use Mobile 1 in my 94 BMW R1100RS because it seems to cut down on oil consumption in hot weather. The 94 BMW does not have a good oil vapor condensing/recirculation system. The bike has 77K, hard ridden miles, and still doesn't smoke. Every 6K oil change interval, approx 1.5 quarts are consumed/added if the engine is worked hard, which it usually is.
Synthetic Oil
- Thread starter OB_EXCLR8
- Start date
G
Guest
EXCLR8, I really need to stop looking at this thread. ALL MOTORCYCLE OIL WITH TRANSMISSION AND MOTOR TOGETHER FOAM TO SOME AMOUNT. Your dealer is full of it Mobil 1 is better, in a comparrison test Golden spectro and motul where at the bottom, Mobil 1 finished first, even auto GTX outperformed motul and goldenspectro motorcycle specific dino oils, everyones synthetic is better than anyones dino. If you are paying more than 4 dollars for synthetic and more than 1.5 dollars per quart you are paying to much.
G
Guest
EXCLR8, I really need to stop looking at this thread. ALL MOTORCYCLE OIL WITH TRANSMISSION AND MOTOR TOGETHER FOAM TO SOME AMOUNT. Your dealer is full of it Mobil 1 is better, in a comparrison test Golden spectro and motul where at the bottom, Mobil 1 finished first, even auto GTX outperformed motul and goldenspectro motorcycle specific dino oils, everyones synthetic is better than anyones dino. If you are paying more than 4 dollars for synthetic and more than 1.5 dollars per quart you are paying to much.
G
Guest
EXCLR8, this is one that is on the net, I will have to look for the other test since it has been some time. http://tempest.ece.uiuc.edu/~cburian/mc/oil/oils4.txt
here is another link.
http://tempest.ece.uiuc.edu/~cburian/mc/oil/
here is one on additives you might like.
http://www1.surfsouth.com/~gdirksen/oiladd.html
another link to same guy at the top only this is questions and answers from a forum.
http://slack.net/~thundt/Bmw/oil.txt
another.
http://www.varsanyi.com/kelly/mcnoil94.html
just do a search for more. the bottom line is MC specific oil is a money maker not a better product.
and the sj rating comes up...if the rating is sj it is also sg & sh rated. go to your dealer and pick up a quart of suzuki motorcycle specific oil, look at its rating, it is SJ. Mobil 1, castrol syntec, amsoil, just pick a synthetic and buy what makes you feel good. Stop beleive the sales people who don't have a clue...just a good sales scare tactic. David G.
here is another link.
http://tempest.ece.uiuc.edu/~cburian/mc/oil/
here is one on additives you might like.
http://www1.surfsouth.com/~gdirksen/oiladd.html
another link to same guy at the top only this is questions and answers from a forum.
http://slack.net/~thundt/Bmw/oil.txt
another.
http://www.varsanyi.com/kelly/mcnoil94.html
just do a search for more. the bottom line is MC specific oil is a money maker not a better product.
and the sj rating comes up...if the rating is sj it is also sg & sh rated. go to your dealer and pick up a quart of suzuki motorcycle specific oil, look at its rating, it is SJ. Mobil 1, castrol syntec, amsoil, just pick a synthetic and buy what makes you feel good. Stop beleive the sales people who don't have a clue...just a good sales scare tactic. David G.
I have heard that the mobil 1 motorcycle oil will foam. Does any one know if that is true?
My Motorcycle dealer is trying to sell me motul synthetic. does anyone have experience with it? He is trying to get me to pay $14.95 a liter. WOW!!! Maybe it is good stuff, but I think I can find it cheaper elswear. What do you think?
I was born at night but not last night!
My Motorcycle dealer is trying to sell me motul synthetic. does anyone have experience with it? He is trying to get me to pay $14.95 a liter. WOW!!! Maybe it is good stuff, but I think I can find it cheaper elswear. What do you think?
I was born at night but not last night!
David G. is correct in stating that all oils will foam when used in a common sump, i.e. transmission and engine.
Keep in mind that adding TOO MUCH oil into your crankcase WILL cause excessive foaming and ultimately lead to cavitation and engine failure.
I have brought this up because it is very easy to overfill any engine when a sight class is used to check oil level. Make sure you have allowed your bike to set for a few minutes before adding oil!
Keep in mind that adding TOO MUCH oil into your crankcase WILL cause excessive foaming and ultimately lead to cavitation and engine failure.
I have brought this up because it is very easy to overfill any engine when a sight class is used to check oil level. Make sure you have allowed your bike to set for a few minutes before adding oil!
As a new busa owner and recent to this thread I can say this. I was a long term member of the R1 fourm and have read several terrible reports of clutch failure using royal purple. Greg Crowe, who started racing the R1 a long time ago has personally experianced clutch failure with RP. Several of the other members had the same result. By the way, as we all know, all the major preformance car manufactures supply syn oil in their new cars and will void your warrenty if you use anything else. I've always used syn blend from the start for a bunch of new bikes and the bikes have always run quite and great consistant compression. Whatever make you happy however. New bikes are built great and the barrel rings seal very quickly. Tolarances are much better than older days.
I just bought some Quaker State Synthetic High Performance oil 20W-50. It says that it exceeds the requirements for vehicles that require SJ oil. The coldest temp that I'll be running my cycle in is 30 F. and I know that the busa runs warm so I'm thinking that this oil should be great but any advice would be helpful.
I know a guy that uses Mobil 1 in his bike and changes it every 2K miles. He then recycles to his wifes car because he said its still good. I asked him that if he thinks its still good then why did he drain it out of his bike. Hes said its not good enough for his bike at that milage but plenty good enough for the wifes car LOL
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