Synthetic Oil

This is going to be a very unpopular opinion but, here goes. Synthetic costs more for no real positive effect. You also take the risk of your clutch slipping. Oh yes, it's true.

I have yet to hear of a single motor failing because of it running dino oil as opposed to synthetic.

The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer. I'd bet that the people that made it know a little something.

Let the flaming begin.
Questions:

What exact brand and viscosity rating - mineral based engine oil do you use , how long have you used this oil and what are your oil change intervals in time or miles ?

Where did you get your information concerning synthetic base oils being cause for motorcycle clutches to slip ?

Quote:

"The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer"

Citation needed on that one .

BTW , knowing what i know there is NO DOUBT i personaly would buy and use " some " mineral based oil formulations before using " some " synthetics for free but thats not the point i'm fixing to get at .
I use regular old 20-50 at the moment. Honda HP4 at the moment. I've used other weights over the years, including synthetic.

I get my information about synthetic based oils causing clutches to slip from people that I know who've tried it. I've only ever used it on cars/trucks. I doubt I'll ever use it again.

"Citation" needed on what? That the dealer puts dino oil in our bikes when we buy them?

What is the point that you're "fixing to get at?" If you have a point, please just make it.
 
My Busa has used Motul 300V 10W40 since new by the previous owner and I have continued to use the same without any issues. It's smooth as silk and takes the punishment of running the bike hard and fast. It also smells like double bubble gum which is kinda cool!

Seriously though, I love this oil and even at $65.00CDN to buy four litres I feel it is worth every penny for my Busa. No clutch slippage at all, ever.


If it's good enough for the MotoGP teams it's good enough for me and my girl.
beerchug.gif
 
I may be outdated on oil technology, but it has been my understanding that there's an issue wanting to switch from a mineral based oil (eg. two stroke bean oils) to conventional due to the coating it leaves on/in the engine surfaces. All of the synthetic oils I've tried and used have the claim that there is no problem with either switching to or mixing with conventional oils. Regardless, I stick with Mobil1 gold cap in the busa since it doesn't have the extra save-our-environment additives. Just my $.02.
 
Sorry man.... the Honda HP4 20 W50 is a Blended oil --- half synthetic/half mineral FYI

But...none the less -- a great oil.... I'm a fan --- I've used that and Repsol oil in my last 5 bikes.

The Busa shifts like butter with it and it gives you the best of both worlds.
 
STP and other oil treatment additives made 2 different bikes I owned clutch slip before I figured out what was causing the slippage. This was 18-20 years ago. I rode very hard back in those days and just thought I was burning up my clutches. The oil treatment was either bonding or saturating the clutch pressure plates. I have never put any oil treatment additives in my bikes ever again.
 
Well I use Motorex(sp?) full syn in all my bikes. And K&N filters. Have NEVER had a problem. And you can switch back to dino oil anytime you want. And then back to full or semi syn anytime...
 
...so where would synthetic blends fit into the picture?
Synthetic blend is in fact mineral oil with synthetic additives, waste of money IMO.


Synthetics in all my motors, nothing else from day first. Longer changing intervals, less friction losses ( every vehicle I tested improved fuel efficiency by at least 3%)
I run BMW for 250K miles with nothing but synthetic oil and cam lobes still have machining marks.
 
I use amsoil. I think that its possable it could help the second gear shift forks problems because it shifts so much better than dino oil. Could anybody else see that as a possability? I ride with 2 liter bikes and beat my busa to death.
 
Me and two of my buddys drag race on full synthetic oil in our bikes.Never had a problem with clutch slippage even at hard launches on the track.Also, I did some research on Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle oil and it supposed to make your engine run cooler and shift smoother.To each his own,though.This is just my opinion.I'm sticking with Amsoil.
 
Sorry man.... the Honda HP4 20 W50 is a Blended oil --- half synthetic/half mineral FYI

But...none the less -- a great oil.... I'm a fan --- I've used that and Repsol oil in my last 5 bikes.

The Busa shifts like butter with it and it gives you the best of both worlds.
Whoops. We were talking about synthetic so much that I apparently had it on my mind. It's actually GN4 that I'm using at the moment (and for aobut the last 6 years), not HP4. So, the blended Honda HP4 is good stuff, eh?
 
 
Synthetic costs more for no real positive effect.

You also take the risk of your clutch slipping.   

The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer.  

I get my information about synthetic based oils causing clutches to slip from people that I know who've tried it.
 
"Citation" needed on what?  That the dealer puts dino oil in our bikes when we buy them?

What is the point that you're "fixing to get at?"  If you have a point, please just make it.
You said "Synthetic costs more for no real positive effect and You also take the risk of your clutch slipping

No real positive effect ? I won't go into it in detail but one has to work on these engines , know what they are seeing on teardown and a little more to fully realize the merits and benefits of true synlubes .

You said The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer

Most street bikes come factory filled for reasons obvious to cost and need for early service drain of an engine that shares lubrication with the transmission . The few that are not factory filled same deal . Cost and no desire for the factory bean counters to pay more than needed .

You said I get my information about synthetic based oils causing clutches to slip from people that I know who've tried it.

Your people have worn clutches , fatigued clutch springs or both if the engines were stock . Maybe even some ancient machine from yesteryear . All JASO MA rated synthetics meet the clutch needs of these newer machines . Even the formulas that use one of three forms of moly , a proven primary anti-wear , secondary anti-oxident additive .

I just tackled asking you to cite your source whene you said  The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer but at and beyond the first service it is up to the consumer as to what oil he/she wants to have put in the engine in terms of synthetic or not and here's why from the big 4 Japanese Motorcycle makes . Suzuki , Yamaha , Kawasaki and Honda offer JASO MA Synthetics with their company names on the labels .

Why so if the oil won't work in their engines ?


HP4Sb.jpg




LUB-15W50-FS-12-250.jpg


SuzukiCyckes Link Broken

And since this is a Hayabusa owners group that primarily discusses Suzuki's , open the PDF file and read where the Suzuki Synthetic is quote: ""highly recommended for Hayabusa , GSXR , LT-R 450 , LT-Z 400 , and RM-Z models



Hope this helps
 
Yamaha

This oil is new to the market . It just might be on par with the better oils like Maxima , Motul , Silkolene and a handfull of other import oils . .

Time will tell on it or - if i use it and and run an analysis on it  
biggrin.gif


LUB_15W50_FS_12_250.jpg
 
Synthetic costs more for no real positive effect.

You also take the risk of your clutch slipping.

The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer.

I get my information about synthetic based oils causing clutches to slip from people that I know who've tried it.

"Citation" needed on what? That the dealer puts dino oil in our bikes when we buy them?

What is the point that you're "fixing to get at?" If you have a point, please just make it.
You said "Synthetic costs more for no real positive effect and You also take the risk of your clutch slipping

No real positive effect ? I won't go into it in detail but one has to work on these engines , know what they are seeing on teardown and a little more to fully realize the merits and benefits of true synlubes .

You said The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer

Most street bikes come factory filled for reasons obvious to cost and need for early service drain of an engine that shares lubrication with the transmission . The few that are not factory filled same deal . Cost and no desire for the factory bean counters to pay more than needed .

You said I get my information about synthetic based oils causing clutches to slip from people that I know who've tried it.

Your people have worn clutches , fatigued clutch springs or both if the engines were stock . Maybe even some ancient machine from yesteryear . All JASO MA rated synthetics meet the clutch needs of these newer machines . Even the formulas that use one of three forms of moly , a proven primary anti-wear , secondary anti-oxident additive .

I just tackled asking you to cite your source whene you said The dealer puts dino oil in your bike at the recommendation of the manufacturer but at and beyond the first service it is up to the consumer as to what oil he/she wants to have put in the engine in terms of synthetic or not and here's why from the big 4 Japanese Motorcycle makes . Suzuki , Yamaha , Kawasaki and Honda offer JASO MA Synthetics with their company names on the labels .

Why so if the oil won't work in their engines ?


HP4Sb.jpg




LUB-15W50-FS-12-250.jpg


SuzukiCyckes Link Broken

And since this is a Hayabusa owners group that primarily discusses Suzuki's , open the PDF file and read where the Suzuki Synthetic is quote: ""highly recommended for Hayabusa , GSXR , LT-R 450 , LT-Z 400 , and RM-Z models



Hope this helps
You ask for specifics and answers and yet, provide none yourself, except for a few assumptions (ie-people whom I've know had worn clutches, machines from yesteryear, etc...not true, and a very silly assumption).

You say I have to work on engines to see the difference. Well, if my aunt and uncle got 240,000 miles out of their Honda Civic before they sold it, still in perfect running condition, after having run dino oil in it for the whole time (true story btw, and I've got quite a few like that), what is it exactly that I have to see ? Still no such thing as an oil related failure simply because someone ran dino oil over synthetic. Simple as that and, your deflections and vague insinuations can't change that. If it just makes you feel better to install synthetic, fine. But please don't preach to anyone who knows better (and those who don't) about what a Holy Grail synthetic oil is. Puhhleeez. What makes you think I don't work on them??? You assume so very much.
 
Back
Top