ABS pump, dual lines to front calipers..?

[sixpack577]

Your ABS Gen2 has
Front Master Cylinder(MC), with one line going to the right caliper, and a 2nd line going from the right caliper to the left.
Rear MC has one line going to the rear caliper.
The ABS module has one line going to the front MC, and a 2nd returning from it.
The ABS module also has one line going to the rear MC, and a 2nd returning from it.
If you want dual front brake lines, then you need a 2nd line that is 1.5" longer than the stock length right line, as well as a double banjo bolt with 3 washers at the front MC.
That is the only change needed.
Bleed the front calipers, then the front MC, then the front Exit line at the ABS pump. There is no bleeder on the ABS pump, so just open the exit line slowly with a rag around it, once or twice will be enough.
Repeat for the rear.
And, even though the rear MC doesnt have a bleeder, you can open/close the line bolt there if need be, and this is more commonly done one front MC's without bleeder screws.
But, back to the dual front lines.
If that is what you want, tell Core-Moto you want a Gen2 ABS line kit, only with dual front lines and MC banjo, and that the left line should be 1.5" longer than the stock right line.
Pick your colors and you're done.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

If you want dual front brake lines, then you need a 2nd line that is 1.5" longer than the stock length right line, as well as a double banjo bolt with 3 washers at the front MC.

I am Lost in Space now, but I look nothing like Marta Kristen so that ain't gonna work for me in life.

Core Moto's routing diagram shows MC to ABS and ABS to Right. That means add double banjo to ABS to add a home run to the left caliper as Frank indicated, no?

The ABS module has one line going to the front MC, and a 2nd returning from it.

The way I read your post, MC has an input and output?

 

[sixpack577]

I am Lost in Space now, but I look nothing like Marta Kristen so that ain't gonna work for me in life.

Core Moto's routing diagram shows MC to ABS and ABS to Right. That means add double banjo to ABS to add a home run to the left caliper as Frank indicated, no?

View attachment 1671799



The way I read your post, MC has an input and output?

That's my mistake in explaining, I see it now, sorry about that.
MC only has output line(s) to caliper(s).

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

MC only has output line(s) to caliper(s).

No prob at all appreciate the advice. So for clarity, you still intend that the left caliper home run is just 1.5” longer than the stock right line? It seems like it would require more. And you wouldn’t hesitate to alter the bolts at the ABS? (Risk?)

Any change for helibars or change for Brembo RCS?

 

[sixpack577]

No prob at all appreciate the advice. So for clarity, you still intend that the left caliper home run is just 1.5” longer than the stock right line? It seems like it would require more. And you wouldn’t hesitate to alter the bolts at the ABS? (Risk?)

Any change for helibars or change for Brembo RCS?

Yes, 1.5" longer.
I just went through this with my '03 Gsxr1k.
As the 1000's brake line routing is the same as the Busa's.
Spiegler told me that when they go from a single to a dual line at the front MC, they add 1.5" to the left line.
I got the wrong length lines first, lol, but ended up with one 1.5" longer than the other, and it works.
I have a Brembo Rcs17 MC too, and other than needing a dual banjo bolt, you may/may not need a different angle on the banjos going to the MC, as I think on the Gen2 ABS that the line connects to the front of the MC, vs the Brembo, where the line connects to the bottom of the MC.
That may/may not matter, based really on handlbar position an angle.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Spiegler told me that when they go from a single to a dual line at the front MC, they add 1.5" to the left line.

I am sorry but there is still a disconnect no pun intended. Two lines at the MC are for no ABS. Are you assuming I will drop ABS as I do not plan on that.

 

[sixpack577]

I am sorry but there is still a disconnect no pun intended. Two lines at the MC are for no ABS. Are you assuming I will drop ABS as I do not plan on that.

Yes
all the stock rubber lines come in stainless steel from Core-Moto in their kit.
I thought you were just talking about changing to 2 seperate lines from the front MC, vs the one line, then another line between both front calipers, like what comes in their standard ss line kit.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I thought you were just talking about changing to 2 separate lines from the front MC, vs the one line,

Sorry for the ambiguity. My choice is between their full 2013+ ABS bike kit, everything acts the same, or @Berlin Germany‘s solution above to alter that with a 2nd home run from the ABS. I feel I have little confidence to spec those changes accurately so leaning toward the preconfigured kit.

 

[Berlin Germany]

What is the default line connector to the ABS pump. Is is proprietary?

View attachment 1671744

man?

sorry but i don't understand your problem .

what speaks against
to lift the tank
and
then to follow the line from right caliper to the abs-block?

then u WILL for 100% sure know wich line / conn.-point one is for the front .
and/or read additionally the manual - if i remember correct there is a pic with the conn.-points .
______________________________________________________

the only prob u will have with the bleeding of the (front) system
because the line (s) from block to calipper(s)
first go upwards and "after" the frame´s top point downwards
what will cause a kind of air collecter at that line(s)´s high-point(s)

and that change to braideds will take i guesss at minimum 3-4 hours plus lot of patience.
______________________________________________________

what i found s a theoretical solution, I mean I've never tried it before, the following components come to mind
this tee

and this single banjo screw with integrated bleeder at the T

and the double at the abs-block

all pieces av. at www.probrake.de/en

plus 4 four extra single banjo-bolts at the t-piece

T-piece including bolt-bleeder mounted at the highest point (but then you need 4 lines instead of 2) more or less in the middle of the lines,
where the line goes over the frame and you should be able to ventilate easily.

or but

you dismantle the two brake calipers, somehow lift them up so far that the lines no longer have an intermediate high point, and bleed them via the bleeders of the two calipers.

well ok - probably a complicated way but you would only have to go it once
because steel braideds basically only have to be installed once in their life.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

sorry but i don't understand your problem .

I am a noob and lack the confidence that I will accurately measure for the line length for such setups; which can be very costly in time and materials.

 

[sixpack577]

Sorry for the ambiguity. My choice is between their full 2013+ ABS bike kit, everything acts the same, or @Berlin Germany‘s solution above to alter that with a 2nd home run from the ABS. I feel I have little confidence to spec those changes accurately so leaning toward the preconfigured kit.

Yes, we are on the same page.
So, if you want dual front brake lines, order their kit, but ask for the 2 lines up front instead of the one, and ask that they make the 2nd line 1.5" longer than the stock length right side.
That is all you need, other than the dual banjo bolt and 3 washers for the MC.