Airbox mods tested with dyno.

a couple days ago i tried to make a last second turn in gravel in front of a big ditch. i came very close to dropping it at no speed. the engine died and would not start , the clock had F1 on it. i turned the ignition off ,waited 3 or 4 secs. and back on , everything back to normal , started the same as always. i then told my friend who i was trying to stop and see that it must have some kind of mercury tilt switch in it.
i just got my manual yesterday and haven't gotten as far as that switch yet, but it seems like it works.
 
I just tested the airbox mod on the dyno and got a 4 hp improvement then I took out the air filter and got 1 more hp improvement.
next I removed the mufflers and made 1 more
hp.
next I made several runs with the diagnostic switch on and off and it didn't make any differance
next we put on a set of yosh slipons and it made 1/2 hp more than the stock ones looks like slipons are not worth the hassle

All this was done with no remapping.
Next I will get a power comander and start playing with the cam lob centers

Turbo Rick
 
Since I also ride a goldwing I follow their boards as well and suprise they had a similar problem with the mercury switch in 1995 I think it was. The wing had a bucket switch that would cause the bike to die if it hit a big bump or got leaned over far enough to cause the mercury to spill out. Imagine your engine dieing on a 900lb bike while doing a sharp u turn. I think Honda even had a recall with theirs. Sounds like the same thing could be happening here.

Don
 
No cut outs. I've had my cute little Busa on its pegs, fairings and on my ground down friggin' feet at speed (surely this is more leaned over than in a U turn in a mall lot) and not had it cut out.

I was talking with another Busa owner today at a bike get together and we both were marvelling at how many Busa guys are having problems of various kinds while neither of us had had a single one...not even a minor one.

Conclusion: Suzuki sent the best bikes to Canada first, and the experimental trashy ones made by illegal immigrants to the rest of the world.

CANADA: The Best Country In The World To Live In Because They Send Us The Best Bikes First!
 
O.K.--I think I have the Power commander map settings adjusted for the air box mod. It maybe could use just a little more tweaking, but it felt great down low again, like I have become used to with this set-up.
Cut away if you have this set-up (micron/pc2) and enjoy.
Bob
 
johnny b, you might have something there!
turbo rick, do you have a pipe or slip ons on your bike? if you have a pipe then make sure you dial that in before you start playing with the cam timing. good luck...make sure you let me now what your coming up with! i know you know what your doing with degreeing your cams. since you told me about changing front and rear sprockets. you'll be the guy that comes up with some good stock motor cam settings. keep up the good work with that and the other stuff we talked about over the phone!!....frank
 
Hey dirty pete i live in las vegas and i nor my riding buddy has had a single problem with our busa's, i guess this blows your theory,unless we mistakely received bikes that should have made it to canada...........
 
Airbox Mods & cut-out problems.
I found some interesting stuff in the Service Manual. In the Air Box, the Intake Air Control Valve (Flapper valve) opens at 2,500 RPM and closes below 2,200 RPM to "improve the effect of intake air flow pulsation so that the engine can output higher power in the low speed range"

The hell with that!! I dont want that thing robbing me of 7-10 HP in the upper RPM range to improve power below 2,500 RPM. That is virtually idle. My flapper has flapped for the last time!

I also noticed there is a Tip Over Sensor, basically a mercury switch that cuts out the fuel pump, fuel injectors and ignition coils if the bike leans more than 43 degrees. sounds like a good idea except for the 43 degree part. 15 degrees would be more like it. could this be the source of the mysterious engine cut out syndrome? hot through a couple twisties then lights out? or even hit a bump when moderately leaned?
 
Turbo Rick, when you turned on the dealer switch on idle did the idle speed change. Mine changes noticeably when turned on. Like I said 4hp was gained when I tried this but I still don't know why.
 
I cut out the flapper & all associated plastic to the inside ridge of the air filter. Subjectively it feels like it revs quicker, definately makes more intake roar, no noticeable effect at low RPMs. I used a soldering iron & Exacto knife. I just left the vacuum actuator in its place.

Also I adjusted my suspension settings as follows & the bike feels great. Much less dive under brakeing, feels more stable & precise in turns.

Front Pre-load: 2.5 lines showing
Front Compression: out 2 clicks
Front Rebound: out 2 clicks
Rear Compression: out 5 clicks
Rear Rebound: out 7 clicks


[This message has been edited by JohnnyB (edited 23 August 1999).]
 
hayabusa my idle also went up about 100 rpm
but with no power gain or loss.

frank the pipes are stock looking to satisfy
the rules for the production class I run in. I will put a pipe on it in a few months and will design a Turbo system for it in the winter.
There will be alot more to do in between thou.I just got sponsered a Powercomander so i'm looking forward to playing with it

Turbo Rick
 
Turbo Rick
Thanks for the post.
mercury switch is intersting, still do not have manual maybe Tuesday. I would like to try to take it out the circuit if possible to test? Is this possible fromw what you know?
I also get an increase in rpm with plug jumpered.
Dyno on thursday i will post after.
Bob
 
Bob Thanks for the maps
as far as the Tip over sensor (mercury switch) the ECU needs to see the resistance from the sensor or the motor won't run.
It looks like you could put a 60 to a 64
K ohm resistor in place of the sensor to test
Turbo Rick
 
99TLR,a little information on the TL-R since I sold mine.I was at the stop light near the San Jose airport on Sunday Aug22 around 3pm and I saw this guy splitting the lanes to come up to the light.I told my daughter looks like the same type of bike I had which was a 98TLR anyways I told her watch when he jumps on the gas when the lights turn green he will stall and roll into the intersection,anyways it did stall and die,I felt bad for the rider and that was one of the reason I got rid of my TLR,didn't want to run the risk of getting run over by cars behind me, other than that great bike for the twisties and race track.

[This message has been edited by Cisco San Jose (edited 24 August 1999).]
 
Mercury switch is under the riders seat on the brake side(R).

Where do we send in our time cards to Suzuki for doing their work?

Brad at X380

And I am still waiting for the return call from suzuki(12days)
 
99TLR, I'm not doubting your advice on electronics, but a stock hayabusa will change idle revs when the dealer plug is switched. Perhaps you can come up with an explanation because I am stumped.

p.s. If the TPS is not adjusted correctly, i.e. the bar is at the top, will switching the dealer plug affect idle speed. (These are the circumstances I am in because I haven't got a tool yet to adjust the TPS.)
 
Turbo Rick, good to hear you got 4hp from modding the airbox, but would have expected more, the TLRs get easy 7+.

Surprised to hear removing the airfilter only gave 1hp... Was the day getting hotter as you did the tests?

Johhnie B, the tip over sensor is not mercury, it is a small brass ring around a U shaped plastic runner. Makes a simple mechanical connection when the bike falls over. Some of the TLR guys remove them, especially if racing. No need for a resistor (someone suggested?), if it is the same unit as on the TLR, just unplug it and forget.

Turbo Rick, about the dealer switch. This is used to put the ECM into "program" mode ready to remap the fuel injection, and when in dealer mode it disables the "yoshi" remap. The yoshi remap has a dial for idle (actually steady throttle). If your bike has been re-mapped and you flip the dealer switch it will temporarily "unmap" it. Hence the difference in idle mixture and revs. If the bike is on a stock map, the switch won't affect idle speed.

The yoshi remap is actually NOT a "re-map", it is a simple modifier, so the ECM uses the original map, and just adds or subtracts a small percentage based on what modifiers you have given it. There is a modifier for low, medium, high, steady ranges.

Many of the problems you guys are having are old news to TLR owners, your fuel injection system is based on ours (with some improvements I bet!), but still very similar.
 
Does anyone have a manual. Still waiting!!
It may say something about the plug-maybe when adjusting the TPS.
TLR are you saying that the TLR had a cut-out problem?
hayabusa--my bikes idle changes with the plug jumpered, whether the tps is in the center, top or bottom. Also whether the P. commander 2 is connected or not.
My opinion is that the plug takes some of the sensors out of the circuit. Not a big concern of mine unless others say no change when they do it.
Also found a write-up on the dual map injection--The same sort of two-stage injection system is used in the Busa as the GSXR750 and TLR's. It uses one set of maps (each cylinder gets its own) at low engine-speed/light-load conditions; these rely more on intake air pressure. A second set of maps takes over under-high-rpm/heavy-load conditions, and gives more weight to throttle position, though naturally several other things are monitored and used to constantly fine tune each 325cc cylinder's diet, including another one of Suzuki's cute, computer controlled flapper valves.
According to DynoJet the PC2 simply runs together with the stock ECM. Changes can be made in many places to increase or decrease stock fuel supply for each map--low rpm map--0%,2%, and 5% throttle High rpm--10-100% throttle.
I still think the flapper must help the low rpm map somewhat. Why would Suzuki spend the cash on this design unless there was a noise or pollution impact?
Bob
 
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