airbox mods.......

[kawipartsdlr]

So I've bought a wrecked Hayabusa that had the small airbox mod done to it. I sold the PCII that it had because I replaced both damaged Yoshi's with stock cans. Will my bike run dangerously lean without a fuel control module or will it just not produce peak power? It also has a K&N which from what I've read shouldn't matter.

 

[cj2121]

hey guys just got my busa...air box mod a must have?

 

[8Daytona8]

Hey this small air box mod! On A Bone stock 06 with bolt ons, Worth the effort? Can the flap be put back if its not a good thing?

 

[ezlife]

(shenoyp @ Feb. 04 2005,08:47) ... please throw some light on this for me. What is the "Airbox mod"... and why would one want to modify their Airbox

Sorry about the stupid question!

Pictures of the airbox mod. The actuator in the bottom of the box is sealed with o-ring, and the vacuum that used to connect to it is capped, and the complete hose removed.

 

[ezlife]

Pictures of the mod. I bent the tabs for the flapper actuator so that the fit was so tight it was hard to reinstall. I pulled the vacuum line off of the actuator and capped it at the electronic controller on the left side of the frame just below the airbox. I used a dremel with cutting bit to cut between the drill holes that I drilled with a quarter inch bit.

 

[Moparict]

Is this the "small" or the "full" air box mod?

 

[Professor]

(Moparict @ Feb. 25 2007,19:14) Is this the "small" or the "full" air box mod?

The picture directly above your post is a small box mod.

 

[Rocketman]

Does it matter if you pull out the actuater or not? I left mine in. Meaning - i removed the flapper and cut out the plastic - but I left the metal vaccum acuater and plugged the hose with a screw.

Any negatives on this arrangement?

 

[JANITOR4U]

I just did the mod and OMG! Took the darn PV off at the same time. I noticed a substantial increase in both ease of speed and hp(perception that is)! After installing the FP velocity stacks, I didn't see too much difference other than the sound out my arse. I may be smoking something, but getting a new mark at the dyno in a few months to compare with before mod mode and see what comes of it. I feel a difference, but will see if there IS a difference. I'm sure there is not much actual with these minor mods, but the feeling is there. I haven't remapped it other than for the exhaust yet either.

 

[FalconofFreedom]

How about leaving everything in and just DRILLING Two 1inch Holes at the back under the filter?...................Seams this could let a few more LB's of Air in for High speeds.............but Not hurt Low end as much as a full small box Mod..What say you?

 

[birdaprey]

(Rocketman @ Mar. 30 2007,00:09) Does it matter if you pull out the actuater or not?  I left mine in.  Meaning - i removed the flapper and cut out the plastic - but I left the metal vaccum acuater and plugged the hose with a screw.

Any negatives on this arrangement?

bump ...on this question

 

[Enginerd]

Bump again on this question... thinking of doing the same thing... also, anyone got any sound clips or vids of busa with velocity stacks? Was thinking of doing it for the sound...

 

[Professor]

(birdaprey @ Sep. 29 2007,23:09)

(Rocketman @ Mar. 30 2007,00:09) Does it matter if you pull out the actuater or not?  I left mine in.  Meaning - i removed the flapper and cut out the plastic - but I left the metal vaccum acuater and plugged the hose with a screw.

Any negatives on this arrangement?

bump ...on this question

It will work fine. Mine is the same way.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

Every once in a while I see someone post that they want to see the factual hard copies of some test results... I hate to say it but most of the mods you read about no longer have hard evidence backing them up anymore. It's mostly just passed down from owner 2 owner. You have to remember this bike has been around since the 20th century Waay back when people went nuts with trying all kinds of different thins and testing them and posting factual results. The biggest problem is that as far as I recall there isn't any current site/message board that hasn't crashed at least one time or another and lost alot of information. Alot of very valuable info has been lost over the years. Things have improved alot since them with the boards and I think/hope some of them are now able to do data recovery.

I know for me I had two tons of info stored on my pc at home on others test results and my own. I had a ton of info, links, product info, tech info and lost everything about a year ago. Some things I have hard copies of but most thins were lost forever.

The box mods have been around for so long I can't even remember who were some of the first to try and test it. It works though. Take my word for it. There are members here that have done it way long enough to know what works and what doesn't. Sure there are new things to try but remember this bike has been around for a long time.

oh yea... you can run no filter on the street.... I don't recomend it but I've done it for months at a time. (forgot to swap boxes after a race) I have no aparent signs of engine damage caused by this. I'll admit though that I never ran my bike through any mud bogs or dessert sand storms. I have ridden it in sun, smog, rain, sleet, and snow.

 

[BanditKing]

I just did the small airbox mod (and another PowerCommander dyno custom tune).

It's winter in Toronto right now, so I can't say how it FEELS, but the dyno graph was pretty cool. I don't have access to a scanner, but I'll see if I can post up the graphs later.

Horsepower went up right across the board, starting out at the same at 22hp @ 2200 rpm, and peaking out at 162.97 (@ 10,000 rpm) to the rear wheel. Prior to the mod, it was 156. Prior to tuning after the airbox mod was done, it was 153. So overall I got a 7 HP max. increase. Doing the airbox mod WITHOUT re-tuning the PowerCommanderIII caused a peak loss of 3 HP. So re-tuning is definitely essential.

Torque also increased across the board with a max torque of 96.77 ft-lbs after the mod and tuning. Before, tuning, it was 90.38 ft-lbs. The graph lines are pretty much parallel. Interestingly, there was a dip in torque at about 3.5 to 3.75 thousand rpm (dropping from 74 ft-lbs to 66 ft-lbs) prior to tuning. After tuning, the dip flattened out a bit, going from 79 ft-lbs down to 75 ft-lbs before climbing back up again.

Anyone know what causes this dip in torque?

The only other mod's the busa has are a PowerCommander III USB, a titanium Ti-Force Sumo full exhaust system (high mount) and a BMC air filter. The dyno runs were done indoors with a high volume fan blowing on the front of the bike. Run Conditions were as follows: 64.2 degrees F., 29.15 in-Hg barometric pressure, 20% humidity.

Have other people found similar results?

 

[SANDFLEA85]

Well, the air box mod is great. Bike actually idles better accelerates smoother. I cannot say it has better pull up top, but it pulls so hard I don't know if I could tell. Also got 45 MPG which ios the highest I have gotten on a tank so far. Bike has 1250 miles so it may just be loosening up.

45mpg?? i bought my bike with the small mod already done so i cant compare it to anything but i get 23mpg on a good day?? bike is also mapped 10% for NOS

 

[Blue1]

I just did the small airbox mod (and another PowerCommander dyno custom tune).

It's winter in Toronto right now, so I can't say how it FEELS, but the dyno graph was pretty cool.  I don't have access to a scanner, but I'll see if I can post up the graphs later.

Horsepower went up right across the board, starting out at the same at 22hp @ 2200 rpm, and peaking out at 162.97 (@ 10,000 rpm) to the rear wheel.  Prior to the mod, it was 156.  Prior to tuning after the airbox mod was done, it was 153.  So overall I got a 7 HP max. increase.  Doing the airbox mod WITHOUT re-tuning the PowerCommanderIII caused a peak loss of 3 HP. So re-tuning is definitely essential.

Torque also increased across the board with a max torque of 96.77 ft-lbs after the mod and tuning.  Before, tuning, it was 90.38 ft-lbs. The graph lines are pretty much parallel.  Interestingly, there was a dip in torque at about 3.5 to 3.75 thousand rpm (dropping from 74 ft-lbs to 66 ft-lbs) prior to tuning.  After tuning, the dip flattened out a bit, going from 79 ft-lbs down to 75 ft-lbs before climbing back up again.

Anyone know what causes this dip in torque?

The only other mod's the busa has are a PowerCommander III USB, a titanium Ti-Force Sumo full exhaust system (high mount) and a BMC air filter.  The dyno runs were done indoors with a high volume fan blowing on the front of the bike.  Run Conditions were as follows: 64.2 degrees F., 29.15 in-Hg barometric pressure, 20% humidity.

Have other people found similar results?

If you have a four lb torque dip, then power is not up "across the board".

My bike doesn't see the track, I am not willing to have a 4 lb/ft torque loss at 4K rpm, that is where the bike is at on the street most of the time.

The great thing about big inch motors on the street is the instant torque, no downshift needed in most cases.

Blue1

 

[drums_till_I_die]

i cut out the flapper frame and excess plastic shrouding the inside of the airfilter and pulled the flapper out , pulled the vac line off the valve and plugged it , reinstalled the flapper vac valve and .............

FU*K yes it works !!!!!! easy free power !!!!!!! dont have a dyno and i dont need one to know that the power is up !!!! the rpms come on alot quicker ! and my 05 busa is all stock . (as far as i know from the pre. owner) do it do it do it do it do it ! DO IT ! !!!! you wont be dissapointed if you do it right !!!!!

,Justin

 

[Blazing-Saddle]

Has anyone just removed the flapper valve and left everything else intact? Would this give a small increase in power or does the whole area around the valve need to be removed in order to get any noticeable gain?

 

[drums_till_I_die]

Has anyone just removed the flapper valve and left everything else intact? Would this give a small increase in power or does the whole area around the valve need to be removed in order to get any noticeable gain?

you could just yank the plastic flapper out and leave the vac valve installed and hooked up (i left my vac valve in so i wouldint have to cover the hole). and it might help somwhat ...... but the idea of removing the whole flapper and the plastic shroding it is to get the air from the front scoops directly into the air filter and then into the engine .... the flapper prevents this untill the vac valve is actuated ... and since there is no smog testing for bikes and if you do go to sell it later on no one will lookin in there and say "hey thats missing , i dont wanna buy this one" the burst in power you get from pulling it all out will definatly make this worth it ! youll love it ! . and it actualy droped my average engine temps on thoes really hot days in traffic . more cool air ! always a good thing in an internal combustion engine !


,Justin