bigoltool
Registered
Hey everyone! It’s been an eternity since I posted on here. Life happens you know.
I have read all of the materials referenced in this thread (CAT3’s original write up, Suzuki manual, and this thread) all of which are great sources of information! The first two describe taking the fork down to the point of spring removal, and this one takes it down to simply seal replacement level. I had a few questions on this subject since my fork seals are weeping a little now and I decided to take a swing at this and add stiffer springs in the process.
Questions
A) Does it make any sense to back off your preload adjusters, and damping screws prior to doing any of these procedures? Some of the videos I have watched talk about at least backing off the compression and rebound screws. Count your clicks beforehand of course.
B) Seal Drivers. None of the materials above talk about using a seal driver. So I am working on the assumption that once lubricated properly you can just tap them in using the old seal as a buffer to avoid damage? I love tools as much as the next guy but I don’t think one is necessary for this procedure. Thoughts?
C) I love the simplicity of Charlie’s write up above since it makes the job super quick, especially since your “supposed to†do this every other year. But I am still a little uncertain as to how to get the proper oil level (volume) back in the forks with this method. The (Gen 1) manual says both 98mm (3.9inches) and 480ml, both of which I have to assume is going into a pristine, bone dry fork. What does this translate to (assume a small amount of residual oil) in the real world? I think measuring the exact amount with the springs out is the only way to really know. After that you could just use a graduated cylinder and that predetermined volume, and use this method with full confidence of your oil volume on subsequent seal changes?
D) Protecting the seals during re-assembly. I have seen videos of guys using everything from Condoms to Plastic bags over the end of the inner fork tube to avoid damaging the seals during the install. But that is under the assumption that you are installing the inner tube prior to seating the seals, which then goes back to my query about the need for a seal driver.
I have read all of the materials referenced in this thread (CAT3’s original write up, Suzuki manual, and this thread) all of which are great sources of information! The first two describe taking the fork down to the point of spring removal, and this one takes it down to simply seal replacement level. I had a few questions on this subject since my fork seals are weeping a little now and I decided to take a swing at this and add stiffer springs in the process.
Questions
A) Does it make any sense to back off your preload adjusters, and damping screws prior to doing any of these procedures? Some of the videos I have watched talk about at least backing off the compression and rebound screws. Count your clicks beforehand of course.
B) Seal Drivers. None of the materials above talk about using a seal driver. So I am working on the assumption that once lubricated properly you can just tap them in using the old seal as a buffer to avoid damage? I love tools as much as the next guy but I don’t think one is necessary for this procedure. Thoughts?
C) I love the simplicity of Charlie’s write up above since it makes the job super quick, especially since your “supposed to†do this every other year. But I am still a little uncertain as to how to get the proper oil level (volume) back in the forks with this method. The (Gen 1) manual says both 98mm (3.9inches) and 480ml, both of which I have to assume is going into a pristine, bone dry fork. What does this translate to (assume a small amount of residual oil) in the real world? I think measuring the exact amount with the springs out is the only way to really know. After that you could just use a graduated cylinder and that predetermined volume, and use this method with full confidence of your oil volume on subsequent seal changes?
D) Protecting the seals during re-assembly. I have seen videos of guys using everything from Condoms to Plastic bags over the end of the inner fork tube to avoid damaging the seals during the install. But that is under the assumption that you are installing the inner tube prior to seating the seals, which then goes back to my query about the need for a seal driver.
