anti-seize a must?
- Thread starter shogun
- Start date
The article makes for some fun reading but it is more a disclaimer than anything else.. If anyone has ever used any product on the plug threads, it is in the head already and this makes the entire article moot for the most part.. Some dope with his new craftsman 130 piece tool kit (50 of them hack saw blades) probably screwed up a head, blamed NGK and/or Permatex and tried to sue them.. Enter the legal dept...so if im reading everything correctly as the article says the anti-seize is not necessary on the CR9E NGK's because they are already coated with a special metal and anti-zeize could just cause over tightening! i think on this one i'll just set my torque wrench to 7pounds of torque and listen for that CLICKgreat article mike.
Turbo is exactly right, if you pull the threads on a plug hole, it has everything to do with the installer, not the coatings.. Graphite engine lube is NOT the same as anti-seize and it has a lot of different properties.. But it does point out, a buffer between the dissimilar metals is a good thing..
Regardless of what that flyer says, you can (and guys do) use anti-seize on the threads.. If you do not know how to safely tighten a spark plug, a 175hp motorcycle engine is not the place to learn.. A lawn mower is a better learning tool than a high dollar Busa head...
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mike1180
Banned
Yes, it is a lubricant and reduces the friction between the threads so the torque value will be less.
mike1180
Banned
Use a dab of anti sieze and set your wrench to 9-10 lbs
The manual says 8 ft lbs, so he would use about 1/3 less or 5 ft lbs or so (if he needs to use a torque wrench.
His wrench should be known to be accurate too.
mike1180
Banned
I have never used a torque wrench in my life for plugs.
I must have changed my first plug at 13 or so (43 years ago) and at that time, I could never even think of owning a torque wrench. I learned the hard way, and after changing hundreds of plugs, I can do it by feel now.
Just me, but I can't seem to wrap my head around the thought process for increasing the specified torque, when anti-seize is used?
I must have changed my first plug at 13 or so (43 years ago) and at that time, I could never even think of owning a torque wrench. I learned the hard way, and after changing hundreds of plugs, I can do it by feel now.
Just me, but I can't seem to wrap my head around the thought process for increasing the specified torque, when anti-seize is used?
mike1180
Banned
True but at that small torque setting your torque wrench could be reading 9 pounds, and giving 5 pounds or 12- 15 pounds?
They need to be recalibrated on a regular basis, but how many of them are?
Too loose is not desirable but there is no reason to exceed a specified torque setting.
Anti-seize lowers the torque needs of the plug, not raises it
They need to be recalibrated on a regular basis, but how many of them are?
Too loose is not desirable but there is no reason to exceed a specified torque setting.
Anti-seize lowers the torque needs of the plug, not raises it
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shogun
Registered
in the manual it says. disconnect all of the lead wire couplers from each ignition coil/plug cap and camshaft position sensor. DO NOT remove the ignition coil/plug cap before disconnecting it's lead wire coupler. can someone tell me what this means and how to do it propery pleaase.
A little tighter is MUCH better than too loose...since you're not using a torque wrench, how do you know what amount of torque you are applying ??? Your plugs could be @ 5, 10, or even 12-15lbs
Exactly. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that low (yet) so I just hand tighten to contact and wrench it a quarter turn.
So far, so good, knock on wood.
--Wag--
What it means is, don't attempt to pull the coil/plug cap with the lead wires still attached. Disconnect them first because they aren't long enough to stay attached as you draw the cap out of the header. Of course, if you were to force it, you would break something, tragically.
Also, be careful disconnecting the wires. The connectors break rather easily. I've had to make a garage fix on one of mine and it's a pain to this day.
--Wag--
you guys are killing me 
if the plug is new, run it down by hand till it stops.. give it about a 1/4 turn (it will just go snug and stop) if the plug is used, it will take around 1/16-1/8 of a turn before it goes snug..
torque wrench on plugs... eeek... (you would use an inch pound wrench anyway..)
shogun
Registered
so the only wire that must be disconnected is the lead wire coupler that attaches to the spark plug? when the manual says ignition coil it is reffering to the actual spark plug? so basically dont take out the plug until you disconnect the wire on top of it first right?
-bogus, why does the maual say TORQUE the plug to 8pounds. would it tell you to finger tighten then do the 1/4 turn?
-bogus, why does the maual say TORQUE the plug to 8pounds. would it tell you to finger tighten then do the 1/4 turn?
I am thinking you should take a basic mechanical class at a community college... if it is this much trouble to change out a set of plugs, you are needing some basic mechanical skills added to your skill sets before working on a high performance motor..
maybe you got a friend or neighbor that has an idea of what is going on to show you..
not trying to bust your chops but I sense you have little experience with wrenches and rather not guide you into a disaster.. this just is not the difficult to do and so far, it has taken 10 times longer to type out help than doing the actual job would have taken....
maybe you got a friend or neighbor that has an idea of what is going on to show you..
not trying to bust your chops but I sense you have little experience with wrenches and rather not guide you into a disaster.. this just is not the difficult to do and so far, it has taken 10 times longer to type out help than doing the actual job would have taken....
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