Attn: Jay (APE) - Question on cranks....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

I'm considering a stroker crank for my Hayabusa (3-5mm) but have heard a million mixed opinions. Currently my bike has Web Cams and a 3mm 1390 kit in it but I just want a little more power. Some people have said you can stroke it 5mm and ride it to work everyday. Although others have said with a 5mm you'll be replacing bearings once a week! Then you read articles or talk to people who have 7.5 and 8.5mm strokers and ride the bikes everyday. TTS was supposed to have a big motor/stroker that they rode like a thousand miles and it was still in perfect shape. So what would be a safe number (3-8.5mm) for street/strip riding if any? I'm looking to be able to still go out and ride the bike on the street 1-2 thousand miles each summer. I don't mind having to tear the motor down once a year for bearings etc. but I just don't want to tear it down every other week!

Also what kind of turn around time could you do if I had you stoke, lighten, and balance my crank?

Thanks.
 
size isn't the question, its all about load. If you keep the compression down then you will be OK. say 11:1. The week link on the 'busa is the starter gear. If the motor kicks back its not long before you need a new starter motor and idler gear $400 ish.
 
Yea Richard...you have the starter cover that will take care of that.

Orient Express also carries them.

Jat at APE will be stroking My crank 5mm's this winter.

Yes, it will still be streetable.
 
GSXR..
We are not seeing any problems with reliability with the strokers. We also do crank journal repairs, and if one of our cranks damages a journal, we almost always get it back for repair. We have not had any 'busas in for repair. That should speak for itself.

Right now we need a crank in house about 3 to 4 weeks for a stroker and L&B. Be sure to state if you want the countershaft gear removed.

Jay

[This message has been edited by Jay (edited 17 August 2000).]
 
I have a 3mm stroker and a 4mm over piston kit in mine. Compression is at 12.2:1 and cold cranking pressure is right at 200 pounds. I am also using the big Web-cams and carillos. We have run it on the dyno quite a bit, and Im now riding it as much as I can. Absolutely no problems at all. Gets a little warm in traffic, but hey, its August in Arizona. As soon as I get moving it cools right down. Still needs an aftermarket pipe.
 
No Rick. All work was done at a local shop I have used for years. It is a big job, even if someone else is doing it.
 
i would go 5 mm and be done with it.no need to change rods i have 100 pulls on my turbo and 1000 hard miles and some drag racing in there to so if i'm ok you'll be fine with oem rods
 
I went 5 mm and Jay does a wonderfull job

PS did you get the cases yet?
I hope so.

[This message has been edited by Johnnycheese (edited 17 August 2000).]
 
Johnny

Got the cases. Please tell me that there was a piece busted off of the bottom left hand side. It was packed nice and no pieces in the box.

Jay
 
If I go with a 5mm do I have to modify my cases at all? Is there anything else I would need besides a spacer to compensate for the 5mm?

Thanks for all the help everyone!!
 
Tom, have you ever thought of putting a manual toggle switch on your fan?
Got one on mine, it comes on when I want it to and stays off when I don't.

Johnny C, How about some dyno numbers and other info on your motor?!
 
Boy that's good news. They arrived while I was in Indy. Our receiving dept unpacked them and put them in the machine shop. When I saw them, I freaked. They swore that you had them packed well and there was no chance that that happened in shipping.

Jay

[This message has been edited by Jay (edited 19 August 2000).]
 
Back
Top