Sounds like the rod isn't traveling far enough i have chrome levers with no adjustment i fabricated my own barrel for the rod and just drilled the hole for the rod shallow so it will travel further into the assemblyAfter installing my F/P levers I have to have them set on the #3 or higher for the clutch switch to engage,,, I just ordered a new switch, I did take the new one off and cleaned it , Still no workie on #1 #2 on the lever.....
Mike
you could rig the switch, or this is an option as well.
K & S Hydraulic Brake Light Switch 10mmx1.25mm-Single Bleed - DennisKirk.com
Your a little confused, You been drinking,
Whats the clutch switch have to do with the brake switch????
I have already tried to bypass the clutch switch,,, No go on a 2008 Busa....
It makes the bike run on the neutral map.. So I was told....
Mike
bypassing the clutch switch is a no go on any suzuki
the banjo bolt replaces the one that is on the bike now, it has 2 wires going into it, hook 1 wire to ground just like your stock clutch switch has, hook the other to the other wire of the clutch switch wiring. you are taking a travel based switch out and replacing it with a hydraulic based one.
All that happens now when you pull the clutch in is that 2 wires get connected to each other, this will do the same thing based on hydraulic pressure inside the clutch line, and you can remove the stock clutch switch as it won't be needed any longer.
when you pull the clutch lever, pressure builds inside of the line, which causes the switch in side the bolt you just installed to close.