Bad clutch switch

iride

Registered
After installing my F/P levers I have to have them set on the #3 or higher for the clutch switch to engage,,, I just ordered a new switch, I did take the new one off and cleaned it , Still no workie on #1 #2 on the lever.....
Mike
 
After installing my F/P levers I have to have them set on the #3 or higher for the clutch switch to engage,,, I just ordered a new switch, I did take the new one off and cleaned it , Still no workie on #1 #2 on the lever.....
Mike
Sounds like the rod isn't traveling far enough i have chrome levers with no adjustment i fabricated my own barrel for the rod and just drilled the hole for the rod shallow so it will travel further into the assembly
 
Yep, I had this same problem with my FP levers too. I was able to loosen the screw that holds the clutch switch and move it over a bit toward the lever and now the only setting that doesn't work is one.

I however like it. Now when I park the bike in a public area I flip the adjuster switch to one and I don't have to worry about somebody jump starting my bike on me. It's like a built in kill switch.
 
Yea, I was thinking the same think, It may not be the switch it could be the
F/P lever, If thats the case I may be sending mine back, I expext a product like the F/P levers to work with a 180 dollar price tag....
I will get my new switch in and go from there,,,
Mike
 
Not been drinking......... put that setup in place of your stock banjo bolt on the clutch master and now you have a pressure sensitive (instead of travel sensitive) clutch switch.
 
Actually that link that smithabusa referenced would work for our problem. It would replace the switch we currently have and still keep the bike running as it should. Instead of the mechanical switch this new switch would use the hydraulic pressure to activate so the position lever setting wouldn't matter.

Edit: What smithabusa said. I'm always late to the party. :laugh:
 
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Your a little confused,:rofl: You been drinking,:poke:
Whats the clutch switch have to do with the brake switch????
I have already tried to bypass the clutch switch,,, No go on a 2008 Busa...:rulez:.
It makes the bike run on the neutral map.. So I was told....
Mike


Funny
 
the banjo bolt replaces the one that is on the bike now, it has 2 wires going into it, hook 1 wire to ground just like your stock clutch switch has, hook the other to the other wire of the clutch switch wiring. you are taking a travel based switch out and replacing it with a hydraulic based one.

All that happens now when you pull the clutch in is that 2 wires get connected to each other, this will do the same thing based on hydraulic pressure inside the clutch line, and you can remove the stock clutch switch as it won't be needed any longer.

when you pull the clutch lever, pressure builds inside of the line, which causes the switch in side the bolt you just installed to close.
 
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the banjo bolt replaces the one that is on the bike now, it has 2 wires going into it, hook 1 wire to ground just like your stock clutch switch has, hook the other to the other wire of the clutch switch wiring. you are taking a travel based switch out and replacing it with a hydraulic based one.

All that happens now when you pull the clutch in is that 2 wires get connected to each other, this will do the same thing based on hydraulic pressure inside the clutch line, and you can remove the stock clutch switch as it won't be needed any longer.

when you pull the clutch lever, pressure builds inside of the line, which causes the switch in side the bolt you just installed to close.

Tada!
 
Thanks, But when you guys were doing all that typing,
I went and fixed it for now, I under stand the hydraulic switch now,
Little slow on this end:rofl:
But here is my fix,
I took a drill tool and elongated the screw hole, I also cut the little plastic pin in half, Not a good picture but the best I could do...
generalbikes077.jpg
 
I did not want to take my F/P levers off any way, To pretty to send in...
I still got a new switch coming, 15 bucks, Not bad..
Mike
 
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