Clutch Switch on Brembo

[GIXERHP]

Just an FYI here here is the Kit that has been spoken about!

clutch switch for Brembo RCS clutch

mechanical clutch switch kit The kit is desgined for use with Brembo RCS clutch master cylinders. Kit includes: micro switch with cables water resistant mounting plates mounting instructions Note: switch kit comes with a closer switch = power can flow, when switch is pushed !! ATTENTION NOT...

mcet.de

 

[CraigMcleod]

Ahh cool... So for my busa, being a standard setup with a rcs clutch, I'd need the switch to be in an open state resting and contacts closed when the lever is pulled in. That way the bike see's the circuit closed when the lever is pulled in so as to enable the starter circuit. (much like the brembo hyd one i have in there at the moment) Did you keep a copy of the mold to make another of the CF brackets? hint, hint ....

Yes that’s correct the circuit is closed with lever pulled in. This micro switch had 3 wires so gives the option to reverse the switching. So depending which 2 of the 3 wires you connect the switch can be open or closed when up, changing wires makes the switch open or closed when down.
it’s important the switch triggers when the lever is almost touching the clipon grip (same as original Busa switch). If it triggers to early this causes the same issue that seems to occur using some of the hydraulic switch’s. As this switch has a metal trigger it can be bent/adjusted to fine tune.
I should have photographed the carbon process! I didn’t actually make a mould. I used modelling clay to hold the switch in correct position, I built up more clay on either side of the switch then with a model knife shaped the clay to form a flat surface aligned around the switch. Next use paint on mould release solution all around the area to be coated in carbon. This solution protects the switch and lever from epoxy resin, without it you’d never release the carbon fibre. I then used 4layers of 2ply weave carbon to form the bracket. Release film is laid on top (basically small piece of polythene). Finally a rolled up fabric layer and then wrapped the lot in insulation tape. The fabric layer acts as a cushion pressed down with the tape, this ensures the carbon is consolidated tightly into the correct shape.

 

[CraigMcleod]

Just an FYI here here is the Kit that has been spoken about!

clutch switch for Brembo RCS clutch

mechanical clutch switch kit The kit is desgined for use with Brembo RCS clutch master cylinders. Kit includes: micro switch with cables water resistant mounting plates mounting instructions Note: switch kit comes with a closer switch = power can flow, when switch is pushed !! ATTENTION NOT...

mcet.de

Yes I’ve seen this one, it requires the switch position to be adjusted if you were to wind the lever in or out. Mine is triggered off the cam which remains in the same location regardless of how you set up the lever.
to be fair once set up I doubt you’d have to re-adjust the lever (unlike on the brake side due to pad wear).

 

[smithabusa]

This could be a potential solution for guys who don't have a functional clutch switch.

 

[CraigMcleod]

This could be a potential solution for guys who don't have a functional clutch switch.

View attachment 1631220

I can see this will also work on a gen 2, wish I had seen this before making up a switch!

 

[smithabusa]

I can see this will also work on a gen 2, wish I had seen this before making up a switch!

Yeah sorry I thought of you guys after I made this up just this past weekend, woke up from bed with a funny light bulb thinking this would be neat LOL

 

[CraigMcleod]

Yeah sorry I thought of you guys after I made this up just this past weekend, woke up from bed with a funny light bulb thinking this would be neat LOL

Have you got a wiring diagram of this? does the neutral position act as a switch?

 

[smithabusa]

Have you got a wiring diagram of this? does the neutral position act as a switch?

Oddly enough no LOL, I don't think I have ever made a wiring diagram for anything that I build and sell for some reason. But essentially yes using the neutral indication to act as the clutch lever, there is a little more involved than that to prevent the neutral light from coming on when you pull clutch in.

 

[GIXERHP]

Greg, a Pressure switch is ok on a Gen 1.
On a Gen 2 it will trigger a C40 code, ISC valve.

 

[smithabusa]

Greg, a Pressure switch is ok on a Gen 1.
On a Gen 2 it will trigger a C40 code, ISC valve.

I remember reading that, I was thinking this might be a nice solution that shouldn't cause that issue.

 

[ottafish]

Greg, a Pressure switch is ok on a Gen 1.
On a Gen 2 it will trigger a C40 code, ISC valve.

I have a brembo pressure switch on my clutch, gen2.
No problems yet and no error codes yet.
Been on for 8000km. Long term, who knows..?

 

[CraigMcleod]

Oddly enough no LOL, I don't think I have ever made a wiring diagram for anything that I build and sell for some reason. But essentially yes using the neutral indication to act as the clutch lever, there is a little more involved than that to prevent the neutral light from coming on when you pull clutch in.

So are you going to make a batch to sell maybe?

 

[smithabusa]

So are you going to make a batch to sell maybe?

Yessir in put them on my website, dont have connectors here yet, but havent had anyone actually say they for sure wanted one either sp was just hanging tight

 

[GIXERHP]

I have a brembo pressure switch on my clutch, gen2.
No problems yet and no error codes yet.
Been on for 8000km. Long term, who knows..?

What year bike? I know of several gen 2's that had this problem

 

[ottafish]

What year bike? I know of several gen 2's that had this problem

13 build, 14 registered
could just be not there yet..

 

[smithabusa]

So are you going to make a batch to sell maybe?

I have them now for gen2

 

[GIXERHP]

13 build, 14 registered
could just be not there yet..

Mine was a 2013,
As soon as i installed the master , i had problems. Never fixed mine it was stolen before that happened.

 

[RevengeFish]

Gen 3 Busa - Some clutch switch findings with a Brembo RCS 16 clutch, hope this is helpful.

Lever Ratio set to 18 (adjuster BLACK)- biting point with gloves and 2 finger clutching is just nice, firmer feel which i prefer. Biting point is nearer than the stock MC. Feel is nonetheless way lighter than stock MC.
Lever Ratio set to 16 (adjuster RED) biting point is too close with gloves and 2 finger cluching- bike creeps forward, need to use all 4 fingers to pull clutch entirely in to stop this. almost no feel.


Regarding the clutch switch service manual states:
On = Clutch Lever Grasped
Off = Clutch Lever Released

1) Hydraulic Switch
The "OFF" point seems to be all the way out at the full release of the clutch
Cruise control disengages at the instant once the lever is grapsed, could indicate that switch turns "ON" immediately. (no spike in rpm when lever is grasped.)
The low RPM assist fails to function, as it seems to the ECU that the switch is "OFF" at the biting point. Low RPM assist dosent work as the switch only turns "ON" when lever is fully released all the way, by that time there is no use for the low RPM assist.


2) Mechanical Switch
Cruise Control disengages like the stock switch- it disengages only when almost the full stroke is hit when lever is grapsed and switch is contacted to the "ON" position - the rpm will spike for short moment before it contacts the switch, which is like stock behavior.
Low RPM assist seems to work once the switch turns "OFF" - as per with the stock cluch MC / stock switch.
However as the Low RPM assist works better than the stock MC as the biting point is nearer and the switch deactivation point is closer and as such the assist kicks in earlier, which makes it more in synch with the biting point.
There is the occassional clunk from the gear box similar to stock behavior when holding the clutch at a stop light then releasing it before getting going- signalling that its probably working right.


Conclusion: I have the mechanical switch wired in as i prefer it. (Was using the hydraulic switch for a day or two, but i prefer the behavior of the mechanical switch purely for the Low RPM assist seemingly working better than stock. However the Cruise control cut feels better with the Hydraulic Switch, but i go off from stop lights more than i use cruise control so the choice was obvious...)

note- Have not checked for any fault codes at this point.

 

[Bumblebee]

Gen 3 Busa - Some clutch switch findings with a Brembo RCS 16 clutch, hope this is helpful.

Lever Ratio set to 18 (adjuster BLACK)- biting point with gloves and 2 finger clutching is just nice, firmer feel which i prefer. Biting point is nearer than the stock MC. Feel is nonetheless way lighter than stock MC.
Lever Ratio set to 16 (adjuster RED) biting point is too close with gloves and 2 finger cluching- bike creeps forward, need to use all 4 fingers to pull clutch entirely in to stop this. almost no feel.


Regarding the clutch switch service manual states:
On = Clutch Lever Grasped
Off = Clutch Lever Released

1) Hydraulic Switch
The "OFF" point seems to be all the way out at the full release of the clutch
Cruise control disengages at the instant once the lever is grapsed, could indicate that switch turns "ON" immediately. (no spike in rpm when lever is grasped.)
The low RPM assist fails to function, as it seems to the ECU that the switch is "OFF" at the biting point. Low RPM assist dosent work as the switch only turns "ON" when lever is fully released all the way, by that time there is no use for the low RPM assist.


2) Mechanical Switch
Cruise Control disengages like the stock switch- it disengages only when almost the full stroke is hit when lever is grapsed and switch is contacted to the "ON" position - the rpm will spike for short moment before it contacts the switch, which is like stock behavior.
Low RPM assist seems to work once the switch turns "OFF" - as per with the stock cluch MC / stock switch.
However as the Low RPM assist works better than the stock MC as the biting point is nearer and the switch deactivation point is closer and as such the assist kicks in earlier, which makes it more in synch with the biting point.
There is the occassional clunk from the gear box similar to stock behavior when holding the clutch at a stop light then releasing it before getting going- signalling that its probably working right.


Conclusion: I have the mechanical switch wired in as i prefer it. (Was using the hydraulic switch for a day or two, but i prefer the behavior of the mechanical switch purely for the Low RPM assist seemingly working better than stock. However the Cruise control cut feels better with the Hydraulic Switch, but i go off from stop lights more than i use cruise control so the choice was obvious...)

note- Have not checked for any fault codes at this point.

Why has this exact same post been placed in 5 different threads?

Has your account been hacked?

 

[RevengeFish]

Why has this exact same post been placed in 5 different threads?

Has your account been hacked?

Hi those were various threads I came across while searching for this info when doing my research, was trying to piece together info on what to get, but couldn’t draw a conclusion, so took the plunge and tried the various options. Thought it could be helpful to reply to those posts surrounding the similar topic. If it’s frowned upon, happy to remove them.