Brembo rcs clutch switch

GIXERHP said:
I Believe Fallenarch bought this one from me
mcet.de

clutch switch for Brembo RCS clutch

mechanical clutch switch kit The kit is desgined for use with Brembo RCS clutch master cylinders. Kit includes: micro switch with cables water resistant mounting plates mounting instructions Note: switch kit comes with a closer switch = power can flow, when switch is pushed !! ATTENTION NOT...
mcet.de mcet.de
Click to expand...
Hadn't seen these when I was searching, good neat idea. Cheers Dion.
 
Dion said:
G'day, new to the site. Been having a look here and there and thought I'd register, I'm in Australia and have a 2019 Busa. First Busa and love it. (Litre sport bikes but my wife enjoys as well so the Busa seemed a good idea and not the compromise I first expected on a winding road!)
The thread caught my eye as I've fitted an RCS 19 and 16 to my bike. No reservoir / lever clearance issues. View attachment 1618439 The radial mc upgrade is the best mod to date for me, super happy with it. Now 2 finger hard braking with feel and power solo or 2 up. I live in a rural area close to mountains and the sea and rarely have to go on straight roads.

Hope this might help some of you out, Brembo can supply a 'normal' contact clutch switch on their cable operated lever / perch assembly for Gsxr's etc. But they don't do the contact switch for the RCS clutch mc but instead only supply their hydraulic switch as for the brake mc.
I fitted both with a few minor mods (if you machine out the handle bar clamp bolt locating grooves by 3.5mm towards inner end of bar you gain enough clearance to angle the mc's down for the full range /angle adjustment, bar is now clamped 3.5mm outward) . I've read a few threads with people having that issue where the mc fouls on the bar clamp. Also I mounted the reservoir tab under the bracket, no clearance issue on lock to lock,
View attachment 1618440
Once fitted, ridden for a few months no problem then started throwing the odd C40 code (ISC and / or clutch circuit), stop bike, fault cleared each time off I go normal again. Was out riding in the wet and the bike threw the C40 code and cut out on a wet roundabout going at walking pace in traffic and did the same again slipping the clutch turning on some gravel roadworks. Same again turn off, start runs as normal no fault. Checked the hydraulic switch, closing circuit no prob. Tried a second switch same issue, 99.9% of the time normal then ride through a town/traffic C40 up. Check circuits again all normal, I ended up speaking to Phil at Phil Tainton Racing (PTR long Suzuki race history here). Phil suggested check where in the lever stroke the switch closed the circuit and guaranteed it was activating to early as he'd seen this before. It was right in the start of stroke. Therefor the ECU registers that clutch is fully disengaged, it should switch to the idle contol map (governing idle speed/ignition advance for neutral or if stationary with clutch in) but because the ABS sensors are registering wheel speed and the TPS is sending a signal that the throttle is part open - conflicting scenario so C40 ISC fault is generated and in my case fuel cut out twice. I fitted a temporary 'momentary on' switch to the left switch block to confirm the cause and be able to start the bike but you wont have the idle map available. In hindsight it all made perfect sense so I bought some water proof 'momentary on' switches and drew up some switch bracket ideas and had them laser cut from 1.0mm stainless sheet to have a play with, I didn't want any of it to be really visible when fitted. Cost $35 for 6 switches and 4 sets of brackets.View attachment 1618443
View attachment 1618441


View attachment 1618442
Made the bracket to mount under the mc off the leaver pivot bolt with the 'push' arm off the lever bolt.
Made a couple of terminal adapters so I could use the original wiring and terminals. Not really visible from above and no more fault codes / cut outs with it all working as standard.View attachment 1618444
View attachment 1618445
View attachment 1618446
I'll fold another set and powder coat them black now that it's sorted. Once warranty is up I'll fit braided lines, I'd recommend the mc upgrades as really worth it for the improvement, brake and clutch.View attachment 1618447 If any ones considered the Delkevics I fitted a pair of the new Titaniums in the long version, super light, sound good, no mapping needed with stock air filter. I think they look and sound good on the black bike, fit and finish really nice.
Hope this is helpful cheers, and safe riding,Dion.

View attachment 1618438
Click to expand...
Hi I have this problem now after fitting the brembo what a pain in the arse is there any other way around this or will I have to get brackets
 
Dion said:
G'day, new to the site. Been having a look here and there and thought I'd register, I'm in Australia and have a 2019 Busa. First Busa and love it. (Litre sport bikes but my wife enjoys as well so the Busa seemed a good idea and not the compromise I first expected on a winding road!)
The thread caught my eye as I've fitted an RCS 19 and 16 to my bike. No reservoir / lever clearance issues. View attachment 1618439 The radial mc upgrade is the best mod to date for me, super happy with it. Now 2 finger hard braking with feel and power solo or 2 up. I live in a rural area close to mountains and the sea and rarely have to go on straight roads.

Hope this might help some of you out, Brembo can supply a 'normal' contact clutch switch on their cable operated lever / perch assembly for Gsxr's etc. But they don't do the contact switch for the RCS clutch mc but instead only supply their hydraulic switch as for the brake mc.
I fitted both with a few minor mods (if you machine out the handle bar clamp bolt locating grooves by 3.5mm towards inner end of bar you gain enough clearance to angle the mc's down for the full range /angle adjustment, bar is now clamped 3.5mm outward) . I've read a few threads with people having that issue where the mc fouls on the bar clamp. Also I mounted the reservoir tab under the bracket, no clearance issue on lock to lock,
View attachment 1618440
Once fitted, ridden for a few months no problem then started throwing the odd C40 code (ISC and / or clutch circuit), stop bike, fault cleared each time off I go normal again. Was out riding in the wet and the bike threw the C40 code and cut out on a wet roundabout going at walking pace in traffic and did the same again slipping the clutch turning on some gravel roadworks. Same again turn off, start runs as normal no fault. Checked the hydraulic switch, closing circuit no prob. Tried a second switch same issue, 99.9% of the time normal then ride through a town/traffic C40 up. Check circuits again all normal, I ended up speaking to Phil at Phil Tainton Racing (PTR long Suzuki race history here). Phil suggested check where in the lever stroke the switch closed the circuit and guaranteed it was activating to early as he'd seen this before. It was right in the start of stroke. Therefor the ECU registers that clutch is fully disengaged, it should switch to the idle contol map (governing idle speed/ignition advance for neutral or if stationary with clutch in) but because the ABS sensors are registering wheel speed and the TPS is sending a signal that the throttle is part open - conflicting scenario so C40 ISC fault is generated and in my case fuel cut out twice. I fitted a temporary 'momentary on' switch to the left switch block to confirm the cause and be able to start the bike but you wont have the idle map available. In hindsight it all made perfect sense so I bought some water proof 'momentary on' switches and drew up some switch bracket ideas and had them laser cut from 1.0mm stainless sheet to have a play with, I didn't want any of it to be really visible when fitted. Cost $35 for 6 switches and 4 sets of brackets.View attachment 1618443
View attachment 1618441


View attachment 1618442
Made the bracket to mount under the mc off the leaver pivot bolt with the 'push' arm off the lever bolt.
Made a couple of terminal adapters so I could use the original wiring and terminals. Not really visible from above and no more fault codes / cut outs with it all working as standard.View attachment 1618444
View attachment 1618445
View attachment 1618446
I'll fold another set and powder coat them black now that it's sorted. Once warranty is up I'll fit braided lines, I'd recommend the mc upgrades as really worth it for the improvement, brake and clutch.View attachment 1618447 If any ones considered the Delkevics I fitted a pair of the new Titaniums in the long version, super light, sound good, no mapping needed with stock air filter. I think they look and sound good on the black bike, fit and finish really nice.
Hope this is helpful cheers, and safe riding,Dion.

View attachment 1618438
Click to expand...
Awesome write up......Did you have any issues installing the brake lines? I know the angles are a bit different. I currently have my RCS on ABM bars. Switching back to stock height. I need to order new brake lines. Any input is appreciated.
 
CraigMcleod said:
Great write up, I'm just about to buy an RCS clutch lever and looking into a switch setup. Do you have any left?
Click to expand...
Craig apologies for late reply prob sorted now haven't been online for a while, if your still after brackets pm I have some spares cheers Dion.
 
Jugghed said:
Awesome write up......Did you have any issues installing the brake lines? I know the angles are a bit different. I currently have my RCS on ABM bars. Switching back to stock height. I need to order new brake lines. Any input is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Jugghed said:
Awesome write up......Did you have any issues installing the brake lines? I know the angles are a bit different. I currently have my RCS on ABM bars. Switching back to stock height. I need to order new brake lines. Any input is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Bit late Jugghed sorry about that, I originally used stock lines with HEL Performance adaptors. They allow you to fit the stock lines to the solid adaptor that mounts to the M,cyl's.
You can just see them in stainless in the pics. Check out HEL Performance, I think they were listed under accessories/parts. I've since fitted HEL braided lines and just ordered them to suit the radial RCS's without the need for adaptors. The upgrade has been worth every $. Transformed the braking. Cheers Dion.
 
Dion said:
Craig apologies for late reply prob sorted now haven't been online for a while, if your still after brackets pm I have some spares cheers Dion.
Click to expand...
All sorted now thank you, I made a carbon fibre bracket:thumbsup:
www.hayabusa.org

Clutch Switch on Brembo | Gen 2 Busa Information

I installed the Brembo clutch MC (RCS 16) and I was wonder what the verdict was on using a Vortex hydraulic switch rather than a micro switch. I understand the Hydraulic switch was throwing FI warning lights for some reason. Was there a verdict on this? Searched but didn't find a final...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
 
Gen 3 Busa - Some clutch switch findings with a Brembo RCS 16 clutch, hope this is helpful.

Lever Ratio set to 18 (adjuster BLACK)- biting point with gloves and 2 finger clutching is just nice, firmer feel which i prefer. Biting point is nearer than the stock MC. Feel is nonetheless way lighter than stock MC.
Lever Ratio set to 16 (adjuster RED) biting point is too close with gloves and 2 finger cluching- bike creeps forward, need to use all 4 fingers to pull clutch entirely in to stop this. almost no feel.


Regarding the clutch switch service manual states:
On = Clutch Lever Grasped
Off = Clutch Lever Released

1) Hydraulic Switch
The "OFF" point seems to be all the way out at the full release of the clutch
Cruise control disengages at the instant once the lever is grapsed, could indicate that switch turns "ON" immediately. (no spike in rpm when lever is grasped.)
The low RPM assist fails to function, as it seems to the ECU that the switch is "OFF" at the biting point. Low RPM assist dosent work as the switch only turns "ON" when lever is fully released all the way, by that time there is no use for the low RPM assist.


2) Mechanical Switch
Cruise Control disengages like the stock switch- it disengages only when almost the full stroke is hit when lever is grapsed and switch is contacted to the "ON" position - the rpm will spike for short moment before it contacts the switch, which is like stock behavior.
Low RPM assist seems to work once the switch turns "OFF" - as per with the stock cluch MC / stock switch.
However as the Low RPM assist works better than the stock MC as the biting point is nearer and the switch deactivation point is closer and as such the assist kicks in earlier, which makes it more in synch with the biting point.
There is the occassional clunk from the gear box similar to stock behavior when holding the clutch at a stop light then releasing it before getting going- signalling that its probably working right.


Conclusion: I have the mechanical switch wired in as i prefer it. (Was using the hydraulic switch for a day or two, but i prefer the behavior of the mechanical switch purely for the Low RPM assist seemingly working better than stock. However the Cruise control cut feels better with the Hydraulic Switch, but i go off from stop lights more than i use cruise control so the choice was obvious...)

note- Have not checked for any fault codes at this point.
 
I have gen 3 busa. I'm looking to buy a Brembo RCS 16 clutch mc. I've read a few topics but it's not clear to me... Will I really need a mechanical switch or could this Boost by Smith harness be the solution?

japan.webike.net

KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) : Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002]

Product Description: KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002] : Fits:Others RCSClutch master cylinder BREMBO:RCS radialFor cl... - Webike
japan.webike.net

Or

boostbysmith.com

Hayabusa Clutch Switch Bypass

boostbysmith.com boostbysmith.com
 
maxandreys said:
I have gen 3 busa. I'm looking to buy a Brembo RCS 16 clutch mc. I've read a few topics but it's not clear to me... Will I really need a mechanical switch or could this Boost by Smith harness be the solution?

japan.webike.net

KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) : Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002]

Product Description: KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002] : Fits:Others RCSClutch master cylinder BREMBO:RCS radialFor cl... - Webike
japan.webike.net

Or

boostbysmith.com

Hayabusa Clutch Switch Bypass

boostbysmith.com boostbysmith.com
Click to expand...

That clutch switch bypass isn't for the Gen3, which has different electronics than the Gen1 and Gen2.
 
maxandreys said:
I have gen 3 busa. I'm looking to buy a Brembo RCS 16 clutch mc. I've read a few topics but it's not clear to me... Will I really need a mechanical switch or could this Boost by Smith harness be the solution?

japan.webike.net

KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) : Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002]

Product Description: KOHKEN (KOHKEN DENKA) Mechanical Switch Kit for Brembo Radial Master Cylinder [KOK-2002] : Fits:Others RCSClutch master cylinder BREMBO:RCS radialFor cl... - Webike
japan.webike.net

Or

boostbysmith.com

Hayabusa Clutch Switch Bypass

boostbysmith.com boostbysmith.com
Click to expand...
mechanical switch works for my gen 3, no fault codes.

I thought its better to put it in, as according to the service manual its suggested that there can be a fault code if the bike is moving and clutch switch is in "ON" (grapsed) position for a prolonged period.

never tried without the switch though.

BTW the KOK-2002 is for Brembo RCS
I found there is a KOK-2165 for Brembo RCS Corta Corsa (should work on the RR version too)
 
Working on installing RCS 16 Corsa Corta on my Gen 3 Busa as well. Waiting on the reservoir and hydraulic Brembo switch. While waiting I keep trying to search this topic to gain a better understanding of this mod. Revenge Fish, I see that you have used both hydraulic and mechanical switches. What mechanical switch do you utilize and what hydraulic switch did you try? Brembo recommends their hydraulic switch yet if there are different options I want to understand all of them. I guess my priority is making sure there isn't any safety or reliability concerns with the hydraulic switch. I definitely don't need fuel cut out due to phantom codes or other surprises.
 
Gen2 - RCS16 clutch - went with a hydraulic switch - threw error codes and F1's after about 6 weeks.

Switched to a physical switch - never had a code since.

You don't want a hydraulic switch for the clutch
 
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