Base fuel pressure slowly drops while riding

stator plugs melt over time..... but his problem is gonna end up being something little... it ran great until he made some changes.... its not an old build. 2 or three years old...
 
ali123 said:
use a car battery..... let it come up to temp... see it same issue is there.....
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Ran a second lead acid battery in parallel and it maintained 30 PSI consistently. Still started at 32-33 psi when I first started it and after it got warm and the fan kicked on it dropped to 30 and stayed there for the rest of the time it was running.
 
RansomT said:
You could also relay the fuel pump directly off of the battery. The wiring harness isn’t really rated for the amps that a large aftermarket pump draws. I’ve seen harness wires melt over time as the pump ages and demands more amps to run.
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I like this idea and think I may do that. Although I did try bypassing the entire harness before and ran some temp leads from the battery directlybto the pump and was getting the same results. Although that was with the old stator and factory rectifier.
 
I was just thinking about addin a status update this morning. the short answer, no. While testing it last time we seemed to tax the electrical system enough to hurt the power commander 5. It was throwing g injector sinnal codes for all 4 cylinders when the PCV was hooked up in line. If I just plugged the factory injector harness into the bikes main harness, like it would be if it were stock, it will fire up and run. Even borrowed another power commander from someone to verify and the bike started and ran with his. So I sent mine to dynojet and 3 weeks later they sent it back saying it was good and there was nothing wrong with it. So I sent them a video of what it was doing. I'm officially not a fan of their products anymore and feel their "testing" is poop. As they specifically stated they were getting injector signals from it and I know they weren't. So they sold me another one at a steep discount. I should have it by the end of next week in the bike. Now, back to the voltage issue. While all the PCV crap was going on I ordered up a Braille B129 AGM battery for the bike. I am hoping the amp capacity of this battery over the the cheaper ones solves my issue seeing as running 2 cheap lead acid batteries in parallel kept the pressure steady even when bolts were dropping from the cooling fan drawing battery volts down, fan also is only drawing 5.1 amps. Unfortunately I haven't had a functional power commander in the bike since the new battery has arrived and been installed. I have also found someone else with a turbo bike that is literally have the exact same issue as I am with all the same symptoms ect and they live 10 minutes from me. So we are bouncing ideas back and forth to try to figure this out. But I'm basically waiting until the bike will run before I can continue...
 
I have gone directly from the battery to the pump on both positive and ground. Same results. Tomorrow I'm gonna go directly from the regulator to the battery. Skipping the starter relay and wiring as well and the ground harness:connector and see if that keeps the voltage/amps from dropping.
 
Today I was able to continue some testing. Cooling fan is pulling over 6 amps at the relay. Also looking at the back of the fan, it looks like the wires are melting through at the fan itself. But when I go online, the ones I can can get a clear pic of, they all look like that kinda. Not sure what everyone else's fans pull but Suzukis manual says anything over 5amps to replace it. But I don't have their meter and a lot of people say don't go by those exact numbers. Also wondering if anyone knows how many CFM the factory fan is rated for? Or if there's a better replacement for the OEM one?

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I went back and re-read all the posts. Are we sure the fuel pressure gauge is correct? Happy voltage will mess with the gauge...
 
Slapped it all back together yesterday and took it for a test ride. All seemed good until I stopped for fuel. When I turned the key back on the fan kicked on so I'm assuming some heat soak happened while it was off. When I started the motor it wouldn't want to hold an idle. I had to keep reving it to keep it alive while getting out of the gas station. Once out on the road everything was fine as far as running but still don't want to idle. Idle speed was at 1100-1200 rpms prior to stopping the gas station. While in the garage I noticed a 2 volt drop when the fan kicks on. Not sure if that's normal. Also the fan pulls 6.2 amps and everything I have read on here says that's normal. It will also over heat now if it's just sitting, even when the fan kicks on. I never had these issues before. Never had to worry about over heating in traffic or anything. Bike ran like a stocker. Reliable and rock steady.
 
GXR1147 said:
Slapped it all back together yesterday and took it for a test ride. All seemed good until I stopped for fuel. When I turned the key back on the fan kicked on so I'm assuming some heat soak happened while it was off. When I started the motor it wouldn't want to hold an idle. I had to keep reving it to keep it alive while getting out of the gas station. Once out on the road everything was fine as far as running but still don't want to idle. Idle speed was at 1100-1200 rpms prior to stopping the gas station. While in the garage I noticed a 2 volt drop when the fan kicks on. Not sure if that's normal. Also the fan pulls 6.2 amps and everything I have read on here says that's normal. It will also over heat now if it's just sitting, even when the fan kicks on. I never had these issues before. Never had to worry about over heating in traffic or anything. Bike ran like a stocker. Reliable and rock steady.
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get the regulator and stator and fan from PH... then put a high aH battery in it... as u know I had extreme electrical problems.. now 100 percent cured...… the bike can sit for 2-3 weeks and fire RIGHT up now..... if I remember corre4ctly these problems started AFTER u put the intercooler on it..... maybe the big fuel pump/ intercooler pump/fan/rising regulator and what ever else is tooo much for these typical batteries/stator setup... like the issues I had
 
Already did the stator, regulator from frank and the battery is a Braille B129. Starting has never been the issue. Even when it stalls out at idle it cranks right over and fires up with zero issue. Same fuel pump as before. Only electrical changes were the injectors and the coolant pump for the intercooler. I've repeated the test with the coolant pump unplugged as well as a few other things and get the same results. When the fan kicks on, I see a 2 volt drop at the battery and 6.2 amp draw at the fan relay. Not sure what the voltage drop should be but everything I've been able to find online says the amps are normal
 
do you have the correct fuses in-between water pump,pcv,and wideband....maybe if one is too big...it draws more power than it needs
 
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