Best Break-In Procedure

M

malenurse13

Registered
I have heard both sides for years and it's time I hear from Hayabusa owners specifically. Some say to do the "easy" break-in as the manufacturer suggests. Others say to break it in "hard!"

Check out Break-In Secrets by MotoMan... detailed instructions for a "hard" break-in that seems to have excellent results. Even better results than the "easy," manufacturer suggested break-in process.

But in YOUR experience... what is the best procedure for breaking in a Hayabusa? Please give us a detailed account of your break-in process and the results. I want to hear from you guys before I buy mine and break it in the wrong way.
 
I've never had an issue using the manufacturers recommended method...............
 
I usually ride them to break them in no really though I followed the factory procedure. I had and have had no problems
 
I'll go ahead and start with my own testimony. I bought a brand new Hayabusa back in 2003. I got it off the floor with 0 miles on it! I followed the manufacturer suggested break-in procedure of keeping it below 5k RPM's for the first 500 miles or so, change the oil, then still restricted the RPM's for another few hundred miles more before opening it up to full on, hard acceleration. I knew nothing about rings or how important the seating process is. My Hayabusa wasn't my first motorcycle but it was my first sport's bike. So the power, acceleration, speed and all that was the best I'd ever seen. But compared to other Hayabusa's and other 1000cc bikes that went through "hard" break-ins seemed to run so much better than my busa. I put over 26k miles on that busa and even with TRE and other minor HP improving mods, I felt a minor loss in power and performance over time. (Or maybe I was just getting used to it... I don't know.)

My wife is planning on buying me an '09 busa for Christmas this year and I fully intend on following MotoMan's "hard" break-in procedure. I hope I get better performance and reliability out of my new busa!
 
I honestly never had any REAL issues with my busa either... that I know of. Maybe a bigger engine doesn't need to be ridden hard to break it in properly. But that MotoMan seems to have a lot of evidence to support a "hard" break-in for any motor. I guess the only real test would be to find someone buying a stock busa like mine, break them in differently, and run dyno tests together at different stages of the break-in process.
 
I was told to just never run in the same rpm for a long time, Nut I'm pretty much an idiot as far as this stuff goes. :stoopid:
 
I broke mine in by the book and it runs fine. Have done this with all my bikes and have not had any problems with any of them.
As for the "hard" break in making more power, I have to cal BS there. Using my ZRX1200 as the example, I broke it in by the book. At a (ZRX version of the Bash) MnG, we had a chassis dyno and ran close to 200 bikes across it in the same day. Out of the 3 dozen or so stock bikes, only 2 made 1 HP more than mine. The rest made less.
When ran back to back on the dyno with a "new, improved, stronger" '08 ZX14, my Gen 1 Busa came out with only 8HP less.
One of those "do whatever feels right for you" things I guess. I'll stick to the book on this issue.:thumbsup:
 
head east busa said:
I usually ride them to break them in no really though I followed the factory procedure. I had and have had no problems
Click to expand...

I'm currently breaking in a new Max, and I'm going by the book. I've never had an issue with doing so, and the dyno hasn't let me down. I just try and avoid the highway, and let the stop and go of city driving take care of the varying RPM thing for me.

The only thing that bothers me about the 'grip it and rip it' breakin is the ability of the stealer to peer into your ECU and potentially find out how bad you've been beating on your bike. If, God forbid, you were to have a serious engine problem in the first 1k miles, it would be a perfect opportunity for Suzuki to deny any warranty claim. [/talkingoutofbutt]
 
Vary loads and speeds is the only way to prevent glazing. The way I break in all engines I've built or bought.
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I have been using the "Hard" breakin procedure for a number of years now and the results are always the same. The rings seat better and I gain an additional 2-3 HP. Which is not much but it does work.

I buy every bike still in the crate so I know it hasn't been riden around the block by a tech who assembled it. I have a brand new GSXR 1000 in my garage now that I hauled home, assembled it and it has not been started yet. When I'm ready to put it into action, I'll either take it to the dino for the breakin (Which takes about an hour) or I'll give it the ole Street Hard breaking which takes about 75 miles.

I've used the Hard Breakin on more than a dozen bikes and I'm sold on the procedure. :beerchug:
 
Tufbusa said:
I have been using the "Hard" breakin procedure for a number of years now and the results are always the same. The rings seat better and I gain an additional 2-3 HP. Which is not much but it does work.

I buy every bike still in the crate so I know it hasn't been riden around the block by a tech who assembled it. I have a brand new GSXR 1000 in my garage now that I hauled home, assembled it and it has not been started yet. When I'm ready to put it into action, I'll either take it to the dino for the breakin (Which takes about an hour) or I'll give it the ole Street Hard breaking which takes about 75 miles.

I've used the Hard Breakin on more than a dozen bikes and I'm sold on the procedure. :beerchug:
Click to expand...
ahem did you say new ? :worthless: :rulez:
 
Breaking it in per the manufacturers recommendation is fine, if that's what you feel is right. BUT, it's completely not needed. It's only for the manufacturer's liability.

I did the Motoman breakin on my 04' and that engine was the best performing bike I've had. The rings seated in less than 60miles and the oil was changed at 100miles. I ended up trading that engine for a bigbore and when the guy went into my old engine he didn't believe I had 10k miles on it.
 
FYI, the last step off the assembly line prior to shipping for almost every bike being made (Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Ducati, MV etc.) is a run out to redline on a factory dyno. There is a record of the power output for every bike made. Suzuki can pull up the dyno for your bike given the vin.
 
I broke mine in hard, and it seems to have paid off. I don't seem to have the problems outrunning liter bikes and 14's the way some of the people around here do.:laugh:
 
IMO just depends what you comfortable with. I've done it by the book and friends put @ 50-100 miles and let it rip, there were no issues either way.
 
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