Best Break-In Procedure

[Hobo]

My mum use to ride a GSX 600, bought it 2nd hand (maybe 2K miles on it) she didn't know much about bikes, so I'd maintain it for her. I couldn't believe how much oil it was sucking down, I'm riding behind her it doesn't seem to be coming out of the pipe. Maybe 500ml for 300 miles, how can a bike suck this much oil ?? Just a big assumption on my part but the only explanation I can think is the previous owner has run it in too easy and has glazed the bore/pistons ? any ideas ?
Re: Run-in, I say your bike, your money do what you think is best !!!

 

[BusaBlue]

You don't have to run it to red line to seat the rings. Just open the throttle all the way but keep it below 5k; plenty of cylinder pressure to seat the rings. high piston speed does not seat the rings, cylinder pressure seats the rings. At high piston speeds cylinder pressure decreases because there is less time for the cylinder to fill.

Remember, you are also breaking in the valves, cams, and transmission. These items need to develop a wear pattern or overheating can occur and cause damage. Ever heard a howling rear end of whining transmission?

Very the speed to load/unload things. That way they will get plenty of oil and stay cool. Once a wear pattern is established and things are mated - rip it!

 

[2busa]

Break-in takes sort of a compression session. The rings are hard and so is the wall finish. Either your assembly smokes on start-up or the rings are sealed from the first press of the button.

The material is soft on the surface. This pounding of hard in the beginning just heats the parts up some. Reason some water temps are high with a new bike and then settle down to a lower temp bar. You still have that layer of oil to squeeze out of the way, but the constant lubing just keeps that puppy running forever just about.

Say the skirts of the piston are banging and that is a pre-measured set once the metal takes that fraction of an inch and compacts the metal molecules a touch. This is where you feel the bike loosen up and run faster after a few miles or well under 2,000mi.

So, lube wise, you nail it or sustain the throttle on the slow break-in is just how fast you set the parts farther apart upon break-in. There are way too many combination's of hard or book break-in that most bikes still run and are not blown up or piston skirts seized after all that throttle app.

Fallacy is the sea of fallacy placed upon you and me. The best one I like is how you have to go up and down on the throttle or something will happen like you keep a steady rpm and that oil is going to wear out the same wear pattern no matter the rpm. How can oil set a groove on the sustain if the piston stops on one end and the taper of the cylinder wall is when the piston ring is blown against the barrel more up at the TDC area; like you have to stop riding in the steady rpm but modulate that same wear pattern that will happen no matter WOT?

 

[red1100cc]

i just rode mine. i did TRY suzuki;s breakin, didn't ride very hard, still dont ride very hard, but i do churp the tire every once in a while. i kinda said "funk it" after some jerk attacked me with his car, and i bounced off the top while cussin at this ol bastard tryin to run me off the road. after that i quit watchin my rpms, and just rode the thing. 4000mi on a brand new 07, bought end of June, still plenty of power and still warranted.

Busa Busa Raa Raa Raa

 

[malenurse13]

...Once a wear pattern is established and things are mated - rip it!

This is my question. How do you know when a wear pattern has been established? How do you know when the rings are seated? Does it ride different? Smell different? Feel different? Sound different? I'd like to know before I get my new busa and break it in.

 

[Spudley]

Either way, I have had better luck with hard or aggressive break-in........building up maximum compression "early" insures the rings get evenly squeezed and seated quicker......even with an rpm limit technique you can still get it broke in proper. Don't be afraid to roll-on aggressively, but definitely don't waste time at low rpm's in 5th/6th gear putting around either.

 

[Destin07]

I'll go ahead and start with my own testimony. I bought a brand new Hayabusa back in 2003. I got it off the floor with 0 miles on it! I followed the manufacturer suggested break-in procedure of keeping it below 5k RPM's for the first 500 miles or so, change the oil, then still restricted the RPM's for another few hundred miles more before opening it up to full on, hard acceleration. I knew nothing about rings or how important the seating process is. My Hayabusa wasn't my first motorcycle but it was my first sport's bike. So the power, acceleration, speed and all that was the best I'd ever seen. But compared to other Hayabusa's and other 1000cc bikes that went through "hard" break-ins seemed to run so much better than my busa. I put over 26k miles on that busa and even with TRE and other minor HP improving mods, I felt a minor loss in power and performance over time. (Or maybe I was just getting used to it... I don't know.)

My wife is planning on buying me an '09 busa for Christmas this year and I fully intend on following MotoMan's "hard" break-in procedure. I hope I get better performance and reliability out of my new busa!

I think thats the best way to go. The guy who got me into streetbikes always run his bike WOT in 6th gear the first chance he gets leaving the dealership. Every few years when his buddies get together and all dyno there new bikes his always makes more power. The guy even has his 02 GSXR 1000 which was his first liter bike and it has 75000 miles on it. That hard break in not good for your motor theory doesn't seem to support that. I think people make it way to complicated....when you get a new car you don't drive around at 40mph for the first 1000 miles. Get on your new bike run the **** out of it or don't....just change the oil the first 500 and 1000 miles and then oil and filter every 2-3K after that and thats all you can do. I had had 12000 miles on my bike and it was run very hard since day one....lived 90% of its life running very hard at extended RPMS. When it was torn down to go turbo the builder said it was immaculate inside and no sign of damage or wear at all. So everybody can take that "Extended Break in procedure" and do with what they please. As far as making more power I could care less if it does or doesn't....I just don't want to spend 1000 miles on my new busa at 4000RPMS