Brake and brakeline question gentlemen

Mortumbra

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I have a gen1 2005 busa. The previous owner took off one rotor and the caliper for that rotor, and ran one main brake line to the one caliper still on it.
Is a T joint necessary for me to add my other caliper or can I run a brakeline from that caliper to the new one I put on?
 
No tee needed. Just the crossover hose. The longer banjo bolt and washers.

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I see Core Moto is making a front brake line system with a T and an elbow to rout the line to the LH caliper across the lower fork clamps. No real advantage I can see other than it;s a bit easier to get a steering stem stand in. The OEM setup on the Gen2 was a line from the master cylinder to the RH caliper and there was a second line banjoed with that one. The second line went over the fender to the LH caliper. My ZX-14 was the same setup and I'll bet the Gen1 busa was also the same. I put a two line setup on both bikes. It's really not a problem to get a steering stem stand in either. You just need a banjo bolt made long enough to accommodate two ring couplings on the MC and a banjo bolt short enough for one ring coupling on each caliper. It's a race setup. If you have a major leak anywhere in the system, you will still loose both front calipers but at least with the two line system, the calipers are a little more isolated from one another. You would have one caliper if the other froze up or became extremely hot I guess. Other than that, there's no advantage I can think of.
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If you’re near me in Ohio, I’d be happy to give ya a hand. I just upgraded my brake lines to braided spiegler lines. Granted mines a gen 2. But I believe all you need is the cross over hose and a couple longer banjo bolts. Though I’d suggest upgrading your brakes lines to braided if they aren’t already. Makes a world of difference
 

man!

this way (see pic) to connect the calipers to the master is the very best way.

the original conn. way by this crossing line in the original, causes a lot of problems to get really ALL air outa the lines,
because the crossing makes a high-point into the hose where the little air bubbles build a big bubble and your brake feels bad

two lines from cal. to master prevent any accumulation of air bubbles.
they simply bleed "themselve" into the master's reservoir and the brake system virtually deflates itself

basical hint - never build a high point in brake hoses - there always air accumulates and causes issues.
 
If you’re near me in Ohio, I’d be happy to give ya a hand. I just upgraded my brake lines to braided spiegler lines. Granted mines a gen 2. But I believe all you need is the cross over hose and a couple longer banjo bolts. Though I’d suggest upgrading your brakes lines to braided if they aren’t already. Makes a world of difference

contradiction!

sorry that I disagree 100%
my hint was to buy a second long line leading to the left caliper (the right fits anyway) and then assemble the brake lines as shown schematically in @Mythos ´s picture above.

yes :banghead: - this stupid nonsense - the crossing line - is built today by many (up to all) japanese manufacturers but no matter how often they build such shi77y / lousy rubbish, it remains crap !

small note because of the prices.
my present preferred dealer (www.probrake.com), for example, always charges the same price for a line up to 1.99 meters in length - no matter how long or short it is.
should make you wonder if you think about it a 2nd minute. ;)
 
BTW, I recommend solid kevlar lines over steel braided. The kevlars weigh nothing. I've had Goodridge kevlar lines on my ZX-14 for ten years and zero problems. They are a bit thinner in OD than the braided SS lines but they still look nice. Pics if you want. I'd use them again but probably go with CoreMoto kevlar for the color assortment. You would have to really use your brakes hard to notice any difference in brake pressure with SS v kevlar if there is any difference.

Another side note, I notice no improvement in brake performance with aftermarket lines, SS or kevlar. A lot of people disagree with me on that. Maybe they ran their OEM lines for many years before switching to new ones. Again, you would have to brake really hard and often to feel a difference. I never did that even on the track and I had three year old OEM lines and the kevlars to compare. Really no difference for my brake use. Same on the busa.
 
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what i forgot is the fact that the rh pads, over a dist. of around 20k miles become thinner than the lh´s

physically impossible due to the incompressibility of the DOT but definitely a fact.
i've seen this phenomenon a dozen times and can't find any reason for it.
but what i have learned from this is to only and exclusively install two long brake lines from the master to the calipers - no matter what the owner of the motorcycle says - I literally force him to do so, because anything else I would, at least, never install.

two longs and all pads keep (or loose ;) ) the same thickness.
 
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BTW, I recommend solid kevlar lines over steel braided. The kevlars weigh nothing. I've had Goodridge kevlar lines on my ZX-14 for ten years and zero problems. They are a bit thinner in OD than the braided SS lines but they still look nice. Pics if you want. I'd use them again but probably go with CoreMoto kevlar for the color assortment. You would have to really use your brakes hard to notice any difference in brake pressure with SS v kevlar if there is any difference. Another side note, I notice no improvement in brake performance with aftermarket lines, SS or kevlar. Again, you would have to brake really hard and often. I never did that even on the track.

grin

no matter what you use kevlar or steel braided

all is better than the lousy rubber lines who start pumping after some years while pulling the lever like veins.
you can feel it when grabbing around one line and pulling hard the lever.
that´s btw. the reason, i suppose, why the maint.-schedule prescribes to replace em every 4th year - what a crap. :(
 
grin

no matter what you use kevlar or steel braided

all is better than the lousy rubber lines who start pumping after some years while pulling the lever like veins.
you can feel it when grabbing around one line and pulling hard the lever.
that´s btw. the reason, i suppose, why the maint.-schedule prescribes to replace em every 4th year - what a crap. :(

True. It isn’t the braided lines or the Kevlar that makes them work better, it’s the strong tubing that’s underneath.
 
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what i forgot is the fact that the rh pads, over a dist. of around 20k miles become thinner than the lh´s

physically impossible due to the incompressibility of the DOT but definitely a fact.
i've seen this phenomenon a dozen times and can't find any reason for it.

Here is a theory @Berlin Germany: The right-hand rule of torque. Align your fingers with the front brake disks and rotate them in the direction of braking. There is some sort of massive force heading to the direction of the right side of the wheel. Hrm. Physically connect the calipers to each other to compensate?

We could be onto something big here, although racers likely have figured this out and compensated for it already.

you can feel it when grabbing around one line and pulling hard the lever.

Yes, but can you as a racer feel an effect in force or response time from this in practical use?

Since so much of breaking is initiating a small amount to balance the bike before applying heavy braking, I would guess that one would have to be extraordinarily sensitive to the feedback in order to feel the effect of brake line expansion. And even once felt, one would just compensate for it with slightly different timing each use moving forward. (?) Admittedly I would have no idea myself from my riding experience, but someone would have to convince me that this is a physical disadvantage, aside from a mere visual effect. Consider what you alluded to above, that once the hydraulic system is loaded, well it is loaded.
 
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(...)Yes, but can you as a racer feel an effect in force or response time from this in practical use?(...)
even without beeing a racer, what i´m no more, you will feel the dif.

the rubber lines give you that spongy and not accurate brake feeling.
thats a fact.

and ur idea about differing brake pads is not hitting the point - fluids are incompressible but the pads tell you that someway and turn the laws of physics upside down.
why? no clue at all but i know the fact i had good a dozen times already.
 
I've used Core Moto Kevlar lines in the last few bikes and they are leaps and bounds over OEM.

I figure even Suzuki in their infinite wisdom saw the folly of the cross over brake line and went to the standard sort of brake line set up they have used in how many bikes before??

If you are going to have to add another line and caliper, I'd update it to the gen 2 brake line set up which applies equal pressure to both sides at the same time...
 
and ur idea about differing brake pads is not hitting the point - fluids are incompressible but the pads tell you that someway and turn the laws of physics upside down.
why? no clue at all but i know the fact i had good a dozen times already.

I suspect that you did not catch my theory. Please reread what I wrote about the "right-hand rule", the rule that force is perpendicular to the plane of motion. I am proposing a physics defense of your observation of uneven wear, and that it is completely external to the hydraulic braking force.
 
small note because of the prices.
my present preferred dealer (www.probrake.com), for example, always charges the same price for a line up to 1.99 meters in length - no matter how long or short it is.
should make you wonder if you think about it a 2nd minute. ;)
I am thinking about it Frank. I think it might be the krapiest link you have ever posted. A link to a German car parts company trying to sell its domain is useful to a Busa rider how?

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...and since you asked me to think...They sell 1.99m for the same price as .5m. So the 1.99 meter line is a good deal? Doesn't that make the half meter line a rip-off?
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Anyway yer link blows. Are you getting kick backs from them,or trying to increase traffic to help the domain sale?:poke:


Here is a theory @Berlin Germany: The right-hand rule of torque. Align your fingers with the front brake disks and rotate them in the direction of braking. There is some sort of massive force heading to the direction of the right side of the wheel. Hrm. Physically connect the calipers to each other to compensate?

We could be onto something big here, although racers likely have figured this out and compensated for it already.



Yes, but can you as a racer feel an effect in force or response time from this in practical use?

Since so much of breaking is initiating a small amount to balance the bike before applying heavy braking, I would guess that one would have to be extraordinarily sensitive to the feedback in order to feel the effect of brake line expansion. And even once felt, one would just compensate for it with slightly different timing each use moving forward. (?) Admittedly I would have no idea myself from my riding experience, but someone would have to convince me that this is a physical disadvantage, aside from a mere visual effect. Consider what you alluded to above, that once the hydraulic system is loaded, well it is loaded.
The right hand rule applies to torque,I get that HW,but the front wheel is not being torqued like the rear wheel on a bike,or like the rear end in a car that is being twisted by the force of a rotating drive shaft. The front wheel is just along for the ride. It has no force being applied to it,so it is not twisting (right hand rule). The front wheel gets braking force applied to it,and even if the right rotor gets more braking force applied to it than the left,you couldn't "feel" it because both rotors are attached to the same wheel,at the same postition.
Brake lines: A squishy OEM rubber line will still push the piston calipers open,just do it slower. The lines must have a full expansion limit,or they would just burst on full lever pressure. So once they reach full expansion you would have all of the force that the stock master cylinder can deliver. Aftermarket lines have less expansion due to their use of better materials. Once they have expanded (this happens qwicker) the same amount of force is delivered to the calipers.
In my opinion better quality brake lines stop you faster because the force gets applied faster. They are better for all riders,and especially pro riders because the "feel" of the lever is more precise and predictable. The fastest rider thru a corner is the rider who brakes last.
2 bikes,one with aftermarket lines,the other OEM. Emergency stop scenario: Both bikes are travelling at the same speed. The distance covered once braking has started is the huge difference if you ask me. The OEM bike's lines are expanding,while the other is already applying most of the force the master is delivering.
If a hydraulic system is in good working order,its my belief that you could run a brake line in a 360 degree loop,twice and still have it deliver as much force as a straight hose. The front brake lines on a lot of motorcycles drop straight down,especially if it has a single caliper. But what about the billions of other brake applications in the world?
Very few vehicles have a brake system that has all lines never running "up hill" if that makes sense.
Frank...no more crummy links...:moon::laugh::beerchug:
Rubb.
 
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