Brake and Clutch Lines Removal Aftermarket Lines Installation

Too late to edit this in where it should go now but I thought I would include this important pic. It shows how the pushpin that holds the OEM brake line to the top of the fender works. The pic belongs up at step 7.

tpfntbrklnrtnr.jpg

This photo shows how the top break line retainer fastener plug is configured.
 
Awesome thread !!

I'm changing all the lines to braided also.

The recommended maintenance is 4 years for the lines, I don't think any were done before I purchased. Bike only had 8500 miles but is over 15 years old. (had routine maintenance records)

Braided lines should last longer than 4 years and is also recommended when prepping bike to be tracked, which I am doing.

My question: "What length hoses do I need for '02 Busa ?"

- 2 front brake lengths

- 1 rear brake length

- 1 clutch length

I also have 1" riser blocks under top triple tree clamp.

Bonus question: "What is ID & OD of fuel line ?"

I also want to change the fuel line to braided. Replacing stock fuel filter with new and keeping stock tuning.

thx again for great thread
 
@Mythos @fallenarch @1busa @bussassin417 @SSGT_B @c10 and everyone else

I need opinions!

Am upgrading braking system this month: Stainless lines F&R, new MC, new reservoir, new pads onto OEM orig rotors.

Gen 2 (2014) / daily commute rider; canyons when not commuting.

Lines: Galfer or Spiegler (either, right?)
MC: Brembo ... but 16? 19? 17? (not the Corsa Corta as I see this as overkill at my riding level)
Reservoir: Rizoma Next
Pads: EBC HH sintered

[EDIT] Your opinions on this equip list

Which Brembo would you recommend?

Will I have to fab my own bracket to mount the Rizoma so it clears the fairing?
 
HayaWakened said:
@Mythos @fallenarch @1busa @bussassin417 @SSGT_B @c10 and everyone else

I need opinions!

Am upgrading braking system this month: Stainless lines F&R, new MC, new reservoir, new pads onto OEM orig rotors.

Gen 2 (2014) / daily commute rider; canyons when not commuting.

Lines: Galfer or Spiegler (either, right?)
MC: Brembo ... but 16? 19? 17? (not the Corsa Corta as I see this as overkill at my riding level)
Reservoir: Rizoma Next
Pads: EBC HH sintered

[EDIT] Your opinions on this equip list

Which Brembo would you recommend?

Will I have to fab my own bracket to mount the Rizoma so it clears the fairing?
Click to expand...

I have the 19 and find it a massive improvement over stock. Either of the lines should work good but unless you get a adapter then make sure to get your lines 2” longer for the radial mc. Rizoma make brackets for the cup but I did not order that so I just made my own. I will make something better in the future.
 
Personally I like Speigler as the banjos can be turned if necessary. Note the off the shelf lines for the Busa may not fit as the Brembo MC has a different mounting position. I used a RCS 19 on the brakes and a 16 on the clutch. Note that all the RSC have a screw to adjust, but the 19 has good feel for me on the Brake side. Corsa Corte not necessary IMO.

I mounted my reservoir to the top triple clamp. Gets in the way of the dash a bit but clears the fairing.
 
I run a 19 with galfer rotors / top tier galfer race pads However My lvl of brake use is much higher than the average rider . The 19 will be fine along with a good HH style pad . Lines are a personal preference . Spigler will probably work well . I had my lines custom built for me from Galfer with my measurements , head angle , and banjo location . Remember I run a LSL kit with ABS delete at one time running a B king master . Lucky for me my B king master , and Brembo 19 both had lower banjo mounting locations .
 
@Mythos

So, I'm guessing the ABS install will be slightly different from your tutorial since the line leaving the MC on my 14 ABS meets up with a metal tube that then heads south, disappearing somewhere around the gas tank. I got the manual, so I'll check. Just wondering if anyone here's done the braided steel install on an ABS model.
 
HayaWakened said:
Lines: Galfer or Spiegler (either, right?)
MC: Brembo ... but 16? 19? 17? (not the Corsa Corta as I see this as overkill at my riding level)
Reservoir: Rizoma Next
Pads: EBC HH sintered

[EDIT] Your opinions on this equip list

Which Brembo would you recommend?

Will I have to fab my own bracket to mount the Rizoma so it clears the fairing?
Click to expand...

I have used Spieler and Galfer. I like Spiegler better only because the color was a little dull on the orange Galfers I bought. Yellow Galfer on my busa looks good. It is true Spiegler includes a tool to rotate the coupling stem if that is necessary. Been told you can do that with any line but I wouldn't want to chance it.

I like solid Kevlar instead of SS for brake lines. It's lighter. For weight reduction and appearance, I would make sure the banjo bolts are anodized aluminum and not steel.

EBC HH will be as good as stock pads, IMO. Not better.

Good luck on the Brembo. That should make a nice improvement in brake feel for you.

I have an Accosato but have yet to install it.

www.hayabusa.org

Accossato 19X18 Master cylinder Gen II hayabusa | General Bike Related Topics

Hi guys motomummy has this amazing deal on the Accossato Brake 19x18 Master cyl. with folder lever for like $190 so was thinking of an upgrade and had a few questions??? 1) Is this setup good for the busa? 2) Is it better than the original setup? 3) What extra stuff will I need? 4) Will the...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org

There was another thread showing an Accosto install with reservoir on a busa but I don't see it now. I'm sure the reservoir on the MC clamp bolt will clear the windscreen just fine.....but your bike will look more like a 14 now!!! :laugh: I plan to use one of these.
CNC Aluminum Motorcycle Fluid Reservoir Brake Clutch Master Cylinder Bracket UK | eBay
They look cool and I've seen these online since 2008 so they aughtta be fine. Sorry that's a UK link (if you're not in the UK) but you'll find tons of those on Ebay and elsewhere.
 
Last edited:
HayaWakened said:
@Mythos

So, I'm guessing the ABS install will be slightly different from your tutorial since the line leaving the MC on my 14 ABS meets up with a metal tube that then heads south, disappearing somewhere around the gas tank. I got the manual, so I'll check. Just wondering if anyone here's done the braided steel install on an ABS model.
Click to expand...

Me...
Can't remember much though..
But some of the factory steel lines are retained.
But, yes the f&r both go from m/c to abs pump first.
 
Thanks for assist, ottafish.

@HayaWakened Sorry I missed that message Haya. I can't tell you much about an ABS install but it does sound a little more complex from what you brought up.
 
Mythos said:
After Market Clutch Line Installation
27. The aftermarket gaskets, banjo bolt and banjo fitting to the clutch master cylinder are arrange as shown with a gasket on both sides of the fitting. Thread the banjo bolt into the master cylinder finger tight.
View attachment 398707

28. Route the clutch line to the clutch slave cylinder as shown.
View attachment 398708

View attachment 398709
Master cylinder to frame.

View attachment 398710
I used the location of the OEM clutch line retainer above the triple tree to fasten a retainer made of a zip tie mount. A small zip tie was used to hold the clutch line in place.

View attachment 398711
A second zip tie was placed around the throttle cables and the clutch line.

View attachment 398712
A small piece of adhesive backed foam weather stripping was placed in the metal bracket that the OEM solid portion of the clutch line is retained in. The bracket was used to hold the aftermarket line.

The Clutch line was then routed on the inside of the frame and down to the clutch slave cylinder.

28. The banjo bolt, gaskets and fitting to the clutch slave cylinder are arranged as shown below. One gasket is placed on each side of the clutch line fitting. Thread the banjo bolt into the clutch slave cylinder finger tight.
View attachment 398713

29. Make sure that the fitting on each end of the line is routed as you want it. Turn the steering from lock to lock and make sure the line does not bind or catch on anything. Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten each banjo bolt according to the clutch line manufacturer’s specification.
View attachment 398714

View attachment 398715

View attachment 398716
Installed front brake and clutch lines

Weight Comparison

View attachment 398717
OEM rear brake line and hardware, 5.60 oz.

View attachment 398718
Galfer rear brake line, rear brake light pressure sensor switch and hardware, 3.80 oz

View attachment 398719
One Galfer stainless steel rear banjo bolt and gaskets and weighs .55 oz

View attachment 398720
A rear brake light pressure switch and gaskets weighs 1.00 oz.

My rear Galfer brake setup with rear brake light pressure switch nets a 1.80 oz weight savings compare to OEM.

View attachment 398721
The OEM clutch line and harware weighs 6.80 oz.

View attachment 398722
The Galfer clutch line along with the zip ties and mounting plate weighs 5.85 oz.

A .95 oz weight reduction compared to the OEM clutch line.

View attachment 398723
OEM front brake lines and hardware, 11.75 oz.

View attachment 398724
Galfer front brake lines, 8.65 oz.

View attachment 398725
Galfer front brake line retainer, .25 oz.

View attachment 398726
Ziptie mount and ties, .05 oz.

Weight reduction with Galfer front brake lines and zipties compared to OEM front brake lines, 3.30 oz.

Weight reduction with OEM front and rear brake lines and OEM clutch line replaced with Galfer lines + rear brake light pressure sensor switch and zip ties, 6.05 oz
Click to expand...
What are those square zip tie things with the bolt hole in the centre called?
 
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