Brakes (rear)
- Thread starter Justyntym
- Start date
C Clamp worked for me just fine. It was my 1st brake job on a bike and went smoothly! Pulled Caliber, compressed with C Clamp very slowly. Pulled old pads and in with the new. Finished in 20 minutes and good to go. Cover your wheel with a towl if you don't want a scratch. You never know when you may drop a wrench or what ever.
Allow me to join the praise singers for the ebc brake pads...they rock
twice as much bite as stockers.
I assume the little squeaks (when braking) will go away after breakin?
the only other thing is it seemed the rear had more bite when I started my ride and not near as much at the end. Hope I didn't hit em too hard, was trying to go easy. Maybe it's all just my imagination
But the front....sweet mother
twice as much bite as stockers.
I assume the little squeaks (when braking) will go away after breakin?
the only other thing is it seemed the rear had more bite when I started my ride and not near as much at the end. Hope I didn't hit em too hard, was trying to go easy. Maybe it's all just my imagination
But the front....sweet mother
Glad you got it taken care of.
Don't think you will get rid of the squeak.
I had 500 or so miles on my set and took them off because they were annoying. Gave them to NJ.
Don't think you will get rid of the squeak.
I had 500 or so miles on my set and took them off because they were annoying. Gave them to NJ.
Excerpt from seller of EBC pads: These pads will work with factory rotors and require a 250 mile break-in before capable of maximum performance. When upgrading to these pads, use caution until fimilar with the increased braking ability!
WHAT DOES "BEDDING-IN" BRAKE PADS REALLY MEAN?
Much like a new set of pistons and rings in a freshly bored cylinder, these moving parts need to mate to function properly. Looking at the ground surface of a new brake pad and rotor [new or used] under magnification, the surface looks like a bunch of hills and valleys. Until these parts are mated, only the peaks are making contact. If you try to use the brakes hard before they bed-in, you run the risk of over-heating and carbonizing the surface of the pad. This means performance will suffer dramatically and a glazed surface will likely result...you'll probably hear your brakes complaining via a loud annoying brake squeal. Before installing new pads, clean the brake rotors by using medium grit sandpaper on the pad track followed by wiping them down with a clean rag and acetone or denatured alcohol. Allow some time to bed-in your new brakes by following the manufacturer recommendations and you'll find they'll work much better.
So be cautious for awhile.
WHAT DOES "BEDDING-IN" BRAKE PADS REALLY MEAN?
Much like a new set of pistons and rings in a freshly bored cylinder, these moving parts need to mate to function properly. Looking at the ground surface of a new brake pad and rotor [new or used] under magnification, the surface looks like a bunch of hills and valleys. Until these parts are mated, only the peaks are making contact. If you try to use the brakes hard before they bed-in, you run the risk of over-heating and carbonizing the surface of the pad. This means performance will suffer dramatically and a glazed surface will likely result...you'll probably hear your brakes complaining via a loud annoying brake squeal. Before installing new pads, clean the brake rotors by using medium grit sandpaper on the pad track followed by wiping them down with a clean rag and acetone or denatured alcohol. Allow some time to bed-in your new brakes by following the manufacturer recommendations and you'll find they'll work much better.
So be cautious for awhile.
put the old brakes bake in it get a good sized flat screwdriver and twist it, it should push right out mine always has and my back brakes work perfectly if they won't the fluid is not bypassing back Somethings wrong IMHO
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