Broken Bolt Removal From Busa OUCH (pic)

ok...STOP......!!!!!!!!!!

DRINK ONE HEINEKEN.........SCRATCH HEAD.......
STOP...........DRINK ONE MORE.............TAKE A DEEP BREATH.......
THEN GO BACK IN...................RELAX......:thumbsup:
 
Maybe give it a rest till tomorrow and let it have a oil bath till then. WD 40, CRC, PB Blaster (my fave), anything you have that'll penetrate and lube. You've chosen the EZ Out route, which is darn near 100% guaranteed to take it out.
 
Here it is now...yes that is my blood. I need to stop and have a beer like you said...start over tomorrow with a new plan.
 
Wow! I'd never of attempted to drill all the way through, but that's just me and it won't help you now.

"If the piece won't rotate, I get to a point where either I can take a punch and collapse the bolt threads inward, then pull it out with needle-nosed pliers or I can go just until I see the tops of the threads and run a tap through. " - Brian Manley
 
The hole you drilled in the bolt is off center and so large that I think you've gotten into the threads of the hole itself, the EZ Out will not work because it's biting into and trying to turn both.
 
Yikes! Didn't ya have a smaller bit? I think it's safe to say you can return the EZ Outs and get some picks to start the tedious process of picking out the bolt. It's been done before, ya it sux, whatever. It WILL come out as long as your patient and careful to not mess up the threads, if their not already. There's still the Heli-Coil.
 
If you drill out hole and its larger than it was simply get a bolt with a head that looks the same only longer and put a nut on end of it. Dont worry about the threads in frame.
Foot peg bracket will cover what we see in last pic so it wont matter. Take one of the other bolts to a place that deals in fasteners and they will either have one or be able to make you one.
I had to have a screw made for my pass foot peg itself. The place charged me $3.00 to make me a custom screw in 10mins while I waited. It was cheaper than ordering online.
The do have unique heads so they will proly need to make you one like 1/2 - 3/4in longer ?




ps...pic above on my 25 inch screen looks 20 times larger than reality so dont sweat it..it aint that bad .
Look at the bright side. Maybe the 'first' scratch can be this and it will get covered up and you will be fine for the remainder..
 
Last edited:
The only option you have now is to take a small punch and try to chip the bolt out a little at a time like others have said. Patience is the key here. Slow and easy. Good Luck.
 
Blanca Busa said:
If you drill out hole and its larger than it was simply get a bolt with a head that looks the same only longer and put a nut on end of it. Dont worry about the threads in frame.
Foot peg bracket will cover what we see in last pic so it wont matter.
Click to expand...

A very do-able option. May be able to forgo the picking as long as the bracket has a little play for the new offset.
 
I didn't bite into the threats yet...but on the top they are just starting to be visible. On the bottom you can see that there is still a big chunk in there. And I have been soaking it in Brake Free.

I started with the EZ-Out before any of the drilling. When I got it in there the drill was unable to turn any further and I switched over to a pair of vice grips bigger than my leg. They couldn't turn the EZ-Out one bit. So, I drilled through with a small drill bit...then a larger then a larger hoping that it would break apart and I could pick it out...NOPE....still won't budge and nothing will break off....might be time for a punch.

Moral to the story...don't use chromed bolts or any type of bolt that might have been weakend due to some sort of heat process...they will snap.
 
Blanca Busa said:
If you drill out hole and its larger than it was simply get a bolt with a head that looks the same only longer and put a nut on end of it. Dont worry about the threads in frame.
Foot peg bracket will cover what we see in last pic so it wont matter. Take one of the other bolts to a place that deals in fasteners and they will either have one or be able to make you one.
I had to have a screw made for my pass foot peg itself. The place charged me $3.00 to make me a custom screw in 10mins while I waited. It was cheaper than ordering online.
The do have unique heads so they will proly need to make you one like 1/2 - 3/4in longer ?




ps...pic above on my 25 inch screen looks 20 times larger than reality so dont sweat it..it aint that bad .
Look at the bright side. Maybe the 'first' scratch can be this and it will get covered up and you will be fine for the remainder..
Click to expand...


Good call Blanca...this might have to be my last option. I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for all the input.
 
Don't know your tool stash, but if you have a small sharp chisel you could try to chisel it counter clock-wise in the larger area of the broken bolt. I think it's one of those deals where once it breaks free, it'll come out with little effort.
 
The place I went to had machines that could copy or make anything.
Like I said I got lucky and rode over with a sad look and the guy said wait here.
I see him out there cuttin and grindin, looking and sandin it. I was like OMG I think I just bought a 50 dollar screw. He came back and said gimme 3 bucks.

Too nice.
Look up some fastener shops you will find one who can custom make one for you.
 
The bolt is still thick enough that you probably won't be able to chisel it out yet. You would have to drill one size bigger, which will start to take out the threads in the frame.

With some heat and cutting wax I still think that would move. Give it a rest and try it again tomorrow.

Absolute worst case, you drill it out one size bigger, punch out the remainder with a chisel, then end up having to heli-coil the frame.
 
A small stick of dynamite should work for you now! Just joking. Be patient and you will get it out. :thumbsup:
 
goblinsix said:
Moral to the story...don't use chromed bolts or any type of bolt that might have been weakend due to some sort of heat process...they will snap.
Click to expand...
So that wasn't the stock bolt? Was it stainless steel? Stainless bolts are generally much weaker than regular carbon steel. Worse, they set up an electrochemical reaction with aluminum, forming a white powdery corrosion in the threads that locks tighter than locktite. I've got an airplane and this is a BIG problem with planes.

Moral of the story: use anti-seize compound on threads where screwing stainless into aluminum

Moral 2: use a torch to heat first.
 
Ok...here is the end result...it ain't pretty but it's out. I need to do some touch-up. One problem however...I threaded the hole with a 5/16 18NC tap & die....it actually is a 5/16 20NC for stock bolts....can I re-thread it?
 
You shouldn't. Not alot of meat there to change threads. Being it's supported with other bolts, you may get away without losing integrity tapping to the correct count. Kinda iffy.
 
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