building a drag bike
- Thread starter busakiller
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Kevin Jones
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I didn't know that either. How devastating is the procedure to make this possible? Is the ecu vulnerable afterward? Without read access, I am looking at a turbo tune as my tuner "lost" the bin file and "forgot" what all the settings were. He did the fuel mapping on a pc5. Nevertheless, I feel any standard flash would botch the tune as he spent 2.5 hours on the dyno building a pc5 map which I don't understand why he had to completely build one from scratch either. I saw hundreds of saved pc5 maps before he selected one that wasn't even close to modify and took him over 2 hours to build. Most absent minded guy, but most well respected by many.
I don't want to hijack this thread, sorry.
Draco1340
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Some thoughts in no particular order:
After the obvious stuff like swingarm and shifter, the next single biggest improvement would be a Hays or MTC convertible (engine driven) clutch. Sometimes called a hand slider. If you gear the bike down to go through the traps at 11krpm, and you have the slide set up to leave around 6k, you should be able to get the 60 down to 1.3X. 2 tenths in the 60 is worth almost 4 tenths in the quarter. That's the biggest bang for the buck you can get, plus they pay for themselves in no time. The clutches last forever with a slider. I measured only .003 wear on my pack after 80 passes this year with no bluing. My motor makes 340 hp, and my shorts are around 1.24 - 1.25 so I don't baby the clutch.
Not a big fan of autoshift. Stabbing the bike into the next gear is the safest way to bring the bike down if it comes up to high. If you always use autoshift, you get out of the habit of using the shifter to bring the bike back under control.
Get your shock revalved. Cheap money. big difference in how much of a stretch your bike can handle.
I have over 900 passes on a BST wheel, and at times have pushed 400 HP to it. I don't know how they could be broken, but That said, I have never seen a MPH or ET difference with Carbon vs. Stock. It should make a difference, but I can't see the difference. Same with Bearings. Save your money on things that make you faster.
After the obvious stuff like swingarm and shifter, the next single biggest improvement would be a Hays or MTC convertible (engine driven) clutch. Sometimes called a hand slider. If you gear the bike down to go through the traps at 11krpm, and you have the slide set up to leave around 6k, you should be able to get the 60 down to 1.3X. 2 tenths in the 60 is worth almost 4 tenths in the quarter. That's the biggest bang for the buck you can get, plus they pay for themselves in no time. The clutches last forever with a slider. I measured only .003 wear on my pack after 80 passes this year with no bluing. My motor makes 340 hp, and my shorts are around 1.24 - 1.25 so I don't baby the clutch.
Not a big fan of autoshift. Stabbing the bike into the next gear is the safest way to bring the bike down if it comes up to high. If you always use autoshift, you get out of the habit of using the shifter to bring the bike back under control.
Get your shock revalved. Cheap money. big difference in how much of a stretch your bike can handle.
I have over 900 passes on a BST wheel, and at times have pushed 400 HP to it. I don't know how they could be broken, but That said, I have never seen a MPH or ET difference with Carbon vs. Stock. It should make a difference, but I can't see the difference. Same with Bearings. Save your money on things that make you faster.
if your feeling gutsy about it.. It appears the busa ECU has same programming port as ZX-12 - ECU hacking
I am not sure who would even do it anymore..
Kevin Jones
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No. $150 versus a $500 tune which I am going to need after I do pistons/rods/spacer/injectors anyway. I can wait. Usually when I try something like that it is because there are no other possible options.
busakiller
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little update.
i got my murray sidewinder last Friday. woot woot.
next iam buying a flat pan.
after that i will look for a swingarm that can go up to 14 inches over stock.
once i get the swingarm i will buy a flat link to lower the bike more and then get my shock revalved.
would like to cut the frame piece out over winter to lose weight.
i want an air shifter and auto shift so the bike will be more consistent and so i can focus on launching and keeping the bike going straight.
once i get all these mod done and the bike working good at the tank i will start spraying the house down.
thanks a lot for your guys help.
i got my murray sidewinder last Friday. woot woot.
next iam buying a flat pan.
after that i will look for a swingarm that can go up to 14 inches over stock.
once i get the swingarm i will buy a flat link to lower the bike more and then get my shock revalved.
would like to cut the frame piece out over winter to lose weight.
i want an air shifter and auto shift so the bike will be more consistent and so i can focus on launching and keeping the bike going straight.
once i get all these mod done and the bike working good at the tank i will start spraying the house down.
thanks a lot for your guys help.
busakiller
Registered
on another not i plan on street racing this bke and doing lsr with it to so iam sticking to hand clutch.
How is that better than a hand slider?
busakiller
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Dennis I dont know what a hand slider is. I will look into it quick.
I know a lot of people have told you to just revalve the shock and that is fine. However when I was debating on what to do with the shock I caleld around. Litz wanted 475 for a revalve and a new spring (yeah I'm a fatty, lol), so for the difference in a JRI shipped for $700, I bit the bullet for the JRI, oh and it's ridiculously less weight than the stocker. If I recall the shock was like 4-5 lbs less weight.
My take on the clutch is this; Yes they are awesome, yes they will make you more consistent. With that said I have been in the 1.3x's consistently with a stock motor, fully dressed busa over and over and over. With the current weigh reduction and improvements (still stock motor) I can almost promise you that it will 60 in the 20's with the stock clutch when I get back to the track. A set of clutch plates don't last me very long, but it's fun!!! lol
So as for speed I haven't been able to justify it yet until I get a built motor. Just my .02
My take on the clutch is this; Yes they are awesome, yes they will make you more consistent. With that said I have been in the 1.3x's consistently with a stock motor, fully dressed busa over and over and over. With the current weigh reduction and improvements (still stock motor) I can almost promise you that it will 60 in the 20's with the stock clutch when I get back to the track. A set of clutch plates don't last me very long, but it's fun!!! lol
So as for speed I haven't been able to justify it yet until I get a built motor. Just my .02A hand slider is like a slider except it has enough static pressure you can ride the bike like normal, with small amounts of throttle. If you lean on the gas too much the clutch will slip. You can ride it on the street and on the return road after a pass. With this type of clutch you can whack the throttle open and throw the clutch lever away at the line and the clutch will engage itself at the right rate to give you a quick and consistent 60'. You can actually go quicker with a "regular" hand clutch because the slider function wastes horsepower but most people (including me) don't have the setup or the skills to actually go quicker with a hand clutch. My clutch has so much dynamic pressure that I can't pull the lever at high rpm's so I'm sure it will take lots of hp and be good for a lsr bike.
busakiller
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Well I wouldnt mind spending a couple hundred more for a shock if going to lose me weight to. I really want to get my bike as light as possible. Stevo80 how fast have you gone on stock motor? You gen 1?
Kevin Jones
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Why not consider a single stage lock up clutch? A compromise between the slider or high $ clutch and OEM. I am either going single or dual, not certain yet. If an OEM clutch can go 1.2 with the right rider but cooks the plates in x amount of passes, you wont have to worry about that with the lock up.
busakiller
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Right now at my power level iam not worried about the clutch. Clutch isnt in my budget or in my mind. I want get the bike set up first before I spend momey on a baller clutch. The guys up here that race are running sliders and all run faster then 8.90s. Iam far from that right now with the bike. If I can get the bike running 9.30s all day I will be happy with that. Then I will spraying it to the moon. I believe with some 1.4x 60 foots it should run 9.3xs on pump gas all day.
Suited I'm 220ish, stock motor, stock clutch, fully dressed, bike went 9.03, thats pump gas and only tuned by me with a wideband. I dropped over 50lbs off of the bike with recent mods, just been too busy with buying a house, getting married, building a shop, etc to get it completely ready to run. I think with a dyno tune of some mr 12 and the current chassis setup I should go considerably quicker. If I could stop eating and become one of those skinny cats I could almost be fast. lol
My bike is a gen 2
My bike is a gen 2
Kevin Jones
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Wheelbase. Get you off the line better and a nice 60 ft. Hell, go bolt ons. I saw a guy run 8.7 with bolt ons, says he been doing it for 2 years.
busakiller
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well little update. I picked up a 12 inch chrome moly swingarm. just looking for a new oil pan now. keeping an eye out for a shock too. cant wait to get the parts installed and spring to arrive. might finish my nitrous set up and start spraying a small 20 shot fo fun
add fuel 
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