Busa overheated

I agree with you guys who are not over heating.
I get stuck in traffic all the time hear in New York city (90 degrees + ) in the summer and never over heat. Something's wrong.
 
have 2 jugs of engine ice in the garage now. will be swapping it out tomorrow night. More than likely gonna put an overide switch on the fan as well. Anybody know of any complications this may cause?
 
No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic. If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.

I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up. The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle. Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions. Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.

For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.

Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow. Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
 
No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic. If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.

I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up. The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle. Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions. Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.

For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.

Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow. Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
I guess I'll be trading for a Honda then-NOT.
Everythings fine with the bike, I checked myself.
 
No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic.  If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.

I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up.  The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle.  Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions.  Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.

For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.

Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow.  Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
I guess I'll be trading for a Honda then-NOT.
Everythings fine with the bike, I checked myself.
Never said you had to trade...if "MY" Busa was a chronic overheater and Suzuki had no fix or solution it would be gone.
I do occasional city riding in Chicago and having to pull over during a traffic jam (and Chicago is one big traffic jam) to let the bike cool down would be unacceptable to me.

If the red light is turning on during a 70º degree day while stuck in traffic there is a MAJOR problem somewhere.

There also has to be a reason others have never had their bikes overheat during severe hot weather. Mine has gone through the torture test of accident rubber neckers on 80/94 from Indiana into Chicago during July without the slightest hint of overheating.
 
We had the same problem in Daytona, my was hotter than ever but never reached the red line. Drew's was getting the hottest, we had to pull over a few times. I told him it was because his bike had to carry so much more weight.
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I hope he didn't take me serious. I WAS just joking.

Kev
 
No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic.  If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.

I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up.  The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle.  Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions.  Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.

For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.

Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow.  Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
I guess I'll be trading for a Honda then-NOT.
Everythings fine with the bike, I checked myself.
Never said you had to trade...if "MY" Busa was a chronic overheater and Suzuki had no fix or solution it would be gone.
I do occasional city riding in Chicago and having to pull over during a traffic jam (and Chicago is one big traffic jam) to let the bike cool down would be unacceptable to me.

If the red light is turning on during a 70º degree day while stuck in traffic there is a MAJOR problem somewhere.

There also has to be a reason others have never had their bikes overheat during severe hot weather.  Mine has gone through the torture test of accident rubber neckers on 80/94 from Indiana into Chicago during July without the slightest hint of overheating.
Are you guys at it again? Is someone going to have to separate you guys?

Kev
 
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
And these detailed bleeding procedures can be found where? I'm gonna be doing the coolant swap and these instructions may be something handy to have. After 2000 + miles and countless curves I find it hard to believe an air pocket can still exist BUT I'd rather be Dayum sure by doing the swap myself. I have to take into account the fact that they could not even install the battery correctly or screw in the fairing bolts without cross threading them on the initial setup so the point MAY be vaild!
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mine did the same thing, less than 200 miles on it. i got stuck in traffic leaving hilton head island(70 degree day) and the damn light came on. i was on a bridge with only a bike path to the left, so i started riding up the path about 20mph and flashing my lights. not the smartest thing i know but they do it in CA and i was not about to let my new bike just sit there and fry. as i was goin the temp went down and after about 10 miles traffic thinned out and i got back in a lane.
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THEN after about 5 more miles i saw the blue lights. SC finest got me to the side of the rode and gave me an ear full about what a dangerous manuver i just pulled. but after handing him my coast guard id and thrown in a few yes sirs, i got out of there ticket free.
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Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
And these detailed bleeding procedures can be found where? I'm gonna be doing the coolant swap and these instructions may be something handy to have.  After 2000 + miles and countless curves I find it hard to believe an air pocket can still exist BUT I'd rather be Dayum sure by doing the swap myself. I have to take into account the fact that they could not even install the battery correctly or screw in the fairing bolts without cross threading them on the initial setup so the point MAY be vaild!  
sad.gif
It's in the shop manual in the periodic maintenance section under cooling system.

I have one of those shop manuals on CD that I bought off Ebay. It's in Adobe format and unfortunately I cannot for the life of me figure out how to copy a section of a page otherwise I'd post it here.

I was mainly referring to brand new bikes when talking about the air pocket, although you will need to burp the system when replacing your coolant.

If the fan didn't turn on or turned on really late I'd check or replace the thermo switch. If the fan was on and the temp kept rising I'd suspect the thermostat or possibly radiator cap.
 
Heh...the adobe file is encrypted
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Basically just fill the radiator up to the inlet and sway the bike back and forth.

Start engine and let it run until no more air is coming out. Top off again.

Put the cap back on. Run the engine to full temperature and let it cool down and finish adding coolant to the reserve tank.

It says to repeat the procedure several times.

Full capacity should be 3.1 quarts.
 
I don't know what the deal is with this......I bought a brand new 03 and all last summer there were times when I sat in traffic riding for about an hour in 90-95 degree temps. Even with that high of temps and all that blacktop heat.....my temp range was BARELY higher I mean you didn't really even notice that much and my fan would kick on more often but once the fan was running all was good. Sorry to hear some of you are having probs like that but mine is doing fine (knock on wood)
 
It gets a little warm in Houston!!!!!!! But thankfully I have never had an overheating problem. And I have sat in traffic for long periods in the 4th largest city in the U.S. Traffic sucks here!!!!!!!!
But when the temp gets higher the fan kicks on and you can see the gauge get cooler.
I haven't looked at my manual but when should you flush your antifreeze? Maybe I will try the Engine Ice when it's time.
 
Engine Ice and a Muzzy Fan should keep things cooler.

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...Thats what I have learnt being on this board! Ordered a Muzzy muself
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Yep, mineruns warm after about 30 min. idle also, but I NEVER let it get into the red. I just pull over and have a smoke, and by then its cooled down.
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I had my bike over in Daytona all week, in the stop and go traffic, and mine never got above the mid point on the gauge. The fan would kick in and it would drop to just below the line. Never came close to over heating but my legs sure did feel the heat coming off the engine. I am running the stock fan with stock coolant in it. Maybe the guys that have the over heating problem should have there thermostats checked out.they might not be opening up all the way, and preventing the coolant from flowing properly.
 
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