just a dead batt. if you forget to turn it offhave 2 jugs of engine ice in the garage now. will be swapping it out tomorrow night. More than likely gonna put an overide switch on the fan as well. Anybody know of any complications this may cause?
I guess I'll be trading for a Honda then-NOT.No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic. If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.
I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up. The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle. Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions. Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.
Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow. Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
Never said you had to trade...if "MY" Busa was a chronic overheater and Suzuki had no fix or solution it would be gone.I guess I'll be trading for a Honda then-NOT.No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic. If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.
I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up. The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle. Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions. Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.
Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow. Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
Everythings fine with the bike, I checked myself.
Are you guys at it again? Is someone going to have to separate you guys?Never said you had to trade...if "MY" Busa was a chronic overheater and Suzuki had no fix or solution it would be gone.I guess I'll be trading for a Honda then-NOT.No new vehicle, especially a liquid cooled Jap bike should overheat in traffic. If that ever happened to mine and the dealer told me it's normal, I'd be trading it in on a Honda.
I've noticed people mentioning "NEW" Busa's overheating.
The bike is shipped without fluids so of course part of the dealer prep is filling it up. The problem could be as simple as an air pocket which can't be overcome by the water pump at idle. Eventually the air gets worked out and the bike never overheats again even in the same conditions. Now you got an owner confused and paranoid that it may happen again.
Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
For an older bike the problem can be anything from faulty fan switch, bad coolant thermostat, weak radiator cap, plugged fins, or plugged passages from not using distilled water.
Not having the proper idle speed will also cause the oil and water pump to run too slow. Furthermore the bikes charging system won't keep up and if the voltage starts to drop the fan won't come up to full speed.
Everythings fine with the bike, I checked myself.
I do occasional city riding in Chicago and having to pull over during a traffic jam (and Chicago is one big traffic jam) to let the bike cool down would be unacceptable to me.
If the red light is turning on during a 70º degree day while stuck in traffic there is a MAJOR problem somewhere.
There also has to be a reason others have never had their bikes overheat during severe hot weather. Mine has gone through the torture test of accident rubber neckers on 80/94 from Indiana into Chicago during July without the slightest hint of overheating.
And these detailed bleeding procedures can be found where? I'm gonna be doing the coolant swap and these instructions may be something handy to have. After 2000 + miles and countless curves I find it hard to believe an air pocket can still exist BUT I'd rather be Dayum sure by doing the swap myself. I have to take into account the fact that they could not even install the battery correctly or screw in the fairing bolts without cross threading them on the initial setup so the point MAY be vaild!Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
It's in the shop manual in the periodic maintenance section under cooling system.And these detailed bleeding procedures can be found where? I'm gonna be doing the coolant swap and these instructions may be something handy to have. After 2000 + miles and countless curves I find it hard to believe an air pocket can still exist BUT I'd rather be Dayum sure by doing the swap myself. I have to take into account the fact that they could not even install the battery correctly or screw in the fairing bolts without cross threading them on the initial setup so the point MAY be vaild!Blame it on the dealer grease monkey that didn't bother to follow the detailed air bleeding procedure.
Glad to hear you didn't overheat. I'm in Woodbridge Va and you know the Humidity we get here! Getting my Busa in a few weeks.I get stuck in traffic all the time here in DC however, my Busa never overheats. The fan kicks on and that's just about it.