Can u fix problems turning after lowering bike?

Mine was lowerd before 1 1/2" front and rear... buy some cheap handlebar plate risers...then you can lower the front to match the rear.. I track dayed with this.. but was dragging the Fairing and mid pipe on the track.
It handled just fine.... But like the other member said [ who are we to try and out engineer what the factory gave us]
 
1)Lowering a bike does not change it's ability to handle....maybe in your world

2) Excuse me.
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Many things change when ride height changes. Center mass, lean angle etc.

If you decrease lean angle you change the way the bike handles. IE: it can't handle the same curve at the same speed it did before it was lowered. Different parts will probably scrap now.

To each his own, this is America!!!!!

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Lowered mine with a set of Soupy's front and rear. I honestly did it for the look. It did effect handling a "Little",but I never though of reverting back and haven't had an issues.

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I used to be able to take both hands off the bars to adjust my jacket or helmet, but this bike turns which makes no sense.
This is what caught my eye. Hard to turn but turns on its own when you let go of the bar? Sounds like something out of kilter besides being lowered. Did you get this fixed too?
When I tested it in the parking lot, I didnt try it. I was too freakin excited I could turn. I can see how that particular problem, no air pressure, might cause the bike to not ride straight.

I left it idling for too long and blew the water out of the radiator since it over heated. I need to find what broke before I go test the high speed with no hands. If your wondering why, I was running some Lucas cleaner through the gas since it had been sat up for so long.

Maybe the engineers didnt count short people in there equations. The never sold mens platform shoes with the bike.
 
Mines not stretched and its not on the ground, the bike in that little picture to the left is mine and how it sits.  I am vertically challenged, 5'7" on a good day.  Its at the first notch, but I dont care if someone puts it on the ground and cruises the streets, just like I don't care if someone puts there car on the ground.  If I had the money, I might put some serious money in it.  I ride long distance though and like it comforable.
FWIW sir:
I bought my bike n rode it stock-height for the first 2 years, then last year swapd to a +9" SA and lowered the bike 2" rear & .5" up front. I changed to a new rear shock/spring n IMO??
*AND my wifes, BTW, she likes to ride 2up*
My bike handles GREAT the way it is-better overall on freeways, and not at all difficult to manuever *but I am 6'7", so that def. helps* downtown in heavy traffic, I can pull u-turns on a 2-lane in one turn, if I can go edge-to-edge on the lanes. 4-lane roads are no prob...even slow, I never have to put a foot down in turns
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Nobody in their right mind will try to argue that a bike HANDLES better when lowered, because we know what it does to the suspension...but if you tweak the suspension for your weight/riding style, even a lowered bike can be TONS of fun even in twisty stuff at speeds that are still 'interesting'
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My
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. When I lowered the bike 2 inch front and slammed with air-ride in the rear. I did NOT feel any diff in handling. BUT when I stretched 10 inch and 330 rear...yea big big diff. First ride was with broken air-ride ( unknown at the time ) the bike would turn its self at low speed, and would not turn at higher speed. You have to learn it all over again. NOW with air-ride working all at 100%, my ride setting is actually higher than stock setting in the rear and still lowered 2 inch front. Having the tail up higher helps with the turn in of a turn. Throughing a steatched big tire bike back and furth in the turns will where you out, BUT can be done. Just takes more work from you to do it!
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only have 1/4 inch of chicken left unmarked on the 330. Still looking to find the edge.

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55 profile tire will help with the turning...to clean the K&N just go to the parts store and buy the cleaning kit or give it to me and buy a new stock one..cant get any easier then that to clean the filter..
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I bought the air filter cleaner and took care of that.  It took longer to get all the crap out of the inside since I had carbon build up.  I would hit on the ground (and did for 20 minutes) and all this flake crap came out.  I had to get it all because it would have went right into the engine. Its at 15k miles and I need to check the gaps and valves.  I got the manual to do it, I just don't really know what to do and what not to do.  I need some specialized tools like gauge checker and some other things that arent normal if the gaps aren't right.

She rides good now with air in the tires and even better when I dropped the front end an inch.  I just don't have anything to put on the back to keep it stable like BigRod1300.

Hey BigDiesel, your bike looks its suppose to with it lowered, like both front and back are down the same amount.  You must have strecthed the pic at one point because loading your pic doesn't change the size unless you have that option to choose.  Who did the mural on your bike, and how much was it if you don't mind me asking.
thanks everyone
 
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