Checked valve clearances today - need advice.

[Kevin Jones]

inch lbs, sorry

 

[clean]

inch lbs, sorry

book says 7 ft lbs, will go to 84 inch lbs which is equivalent . A couple of them are too hard to get to with the torque wrench so will have the estimate on those.

 

[Kevin Jones]

book says 7 ft lbs, will go to 84 inch lbs which is equivalent . A couple of them are too hard to get to with the torque wrench so will have the estimate on those.

I do mine at 89 but that's so close, a lot of things on a gen 1 motor are 89 in lbs and for a while I was doing stock rebuilds with a core exchange. Just couldn't make any money.

 

[clean]

Here's a pic of the exhaust cam mark that should be dead level with the cylinder head surface. As you can see its its not "exactly" perfect. this is of course with the crank marks lined up and cylinder #1 @ TDC confirmed with dial indicator. the tensioner is installed so there is no slack in the chain. If I move the crank ahead so the cam mark is perfectly level with the head then the crank marks are off about 3/16" or so.

am I overthinking this or is that mark too far off? the timing chain is used with 23K miles. @c10 @Kevin Jones @Kiwi Rider

thanks guys for your input.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Here's a pic of the exhaust cam mark that should be dead level with the cylinder head surface. As you can see its its not "exactly" perfect. this is of course with the crank marks lined up and cylinder #1 @ TDC confirmed with dial indicator. the tensioner is installed so there is no slack in the chain. If I move the crank ahead so the cam mark is perfectly level with the head then the crank marks are off about 3/16" or so.

am I overthinking this or is that mark too far off? the timing chain is used with 23K miles. @c10 @Kevin Jones @Kiwi Rider

thanks guys for your input. View attachment 1615070

That is fine.... think about it.. if you move the cam or the chain by one tooth either way the arrow will be a lot further from level position than that photo shows, so yes, you are being too pedantic about it.
Provided the crank mark is lined up, and the tensioner is fully extended to tension the chain, and you have the pin count correct, that cam timing you have there is good to go .

 

[clean]

That is fine.... think about it.. if you move the cam or the chain by one tooth either way the arrow will be a lot further from level position than that photo shows, so yes, you are being too pedantic about it.
Provided the crank mark is lined up, and the tensioner is fully extended to tension the chain, and you have the pin count correct, that cam timing you have there is good to go .

My thought was that the 3/16" on the crank to get the arrow dead on could represent 1 tooth off on the crank sprocket - but yes....I think its good to go.

 

[c10]

Run it

 

[Kiwi Rider]

My thought was that the 3/16" on the crank to get the arrow dead on could represent 1 tooth off on the crank sprocket - but yes....I think its good to go.

It's just a bit of chain stretch, if that was a brand new chain the arrow would line up dead on.
As Bryan said " Run it " lol.
blinkin rookies . . . smh.

 

[clean]

Will be flashing her up in the morning

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Will be flashing her up in the morning

Cool, let us know how it goes, she’ll be good mate!

 

[xc700]

trust your work and start it ,if you rolled the motor over by hand should be no problem. its always makes me nuts until it starts and runs.

 

[clean]

Thanks guys, runs like a swiss watch. Now I want pair block off plates, full exhaust and tune.