Clear Clutch Covers/How do you stop them from LEAKING!!!!

webbashl

webbashl

Registered
I have torn this thing apart and redone it already and it held up about a 500 miles before it started back leaking again. It leaks from the top where my wires come out for the leds and some around the ring. Yes the bolts are tight and when I redone it, it was sealed up really good.
 
Make sure ALL the surfaces are clean (use some brake cleaner) it does not leave a residue...apply some RTV, reassemble the parts...then let it set up overnight, at least 12 hrs.
 
I would maybe try some sort of threaded electrical connector/bushing or something like that...and put some good sealer on that...just my .02 cents worth since i dont have a picture to go by...good luck...I'm glad you posted as this is one of the mods I have been thinking about, but I dont want to be having oil leak issues!!!!
 
djsin said:
I would maybe try some sort of threaded electrical connector/bushing or something like that...and put some good sealer on that...just my .02 cents worth since i dont have a picture to go by...good luck...I'm glad you posted as this is one of the mods I have been thinking about, but I dont want to be having oil leak issues!!!!
Click to expand...

RTV is oil resistant and there is no 'pressure'...only splash.
 
BA BUSA said:
Make sure ALL the surfaces are clean (use some brake cleaner) it does not leave a residue...apply some RTV, reassemble the parts...then let it set up overnight, at least 12 hrs.
Click to expand...

I too feel this is one of the key points that is overlooked...speaking of my own experience especially...RTV is important, clean surfaces obviously...good and tight of course but set up (cure) time is often overlooked..gotta let this stuff cure...the longer the better in my opinion...I went a couple days this past time and along with a few other lil tweaks, knock on wood its been no bubbles no troubles :thumbsup:

FYI...I used a two part epoxy (similar to plumbers putty) around the hole where these wires come out...had great success thus far
 
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ive had this problem a few times, and thanks to someone for their info, it was fixed. take the ring/glass out, scrape all the rtv out. if urs has that rubber o-ring thats the size of the glass, throw that away. once all the surfaces are clean, get a tube of black (or silver) RTV.. and just cake it on. now bput the glass back on, and the ring back on (try 2 leave a hole or 2 open so i can line everything back up). now put the screws back in and tighten them down (u dont need to go crazy tight and try to crack the "glass" or bend the ring, but a good hand tight. then let it sit over night (24 hrs is best). did that to mine and its been about 1000 miles and ZERO leaks (i was going thru a qt-1 1/2ts of oil every 2000 miles from leaks).

as far as the LED wire/hole. all i did for that was take the old stuff out, but the black RVT in the hole with the wire, gave the tube a little squeeze, moved the wires around some (so the rtv coats all the sides and the wires dont create a "hole" by rubbing up next to the sides. just try 2 do it clean so u dont have RTV all over the cover. ive seen some covers that have a rubber grommet 4 the wires. just take that out and add the rtv to the grommet, put the grommit back in, put some RTV on the inside of the cover where the grommet is, and then alittle where the wires lay. set for 24 hrs. good to go.
 
I used the black RVT, and got every stinking little piece of old rtv out. I cleaned and prepped to the point i would have eaten off it reassebled, sat for two days inside. Filled it up with water and it sat another day and no leaks. But now she is back at it.....
 
djsin said:
I would maybe try some sort of threaded electrical connector/bushing or something like that...and put some good sealer on that...just my .02 cents worth since i dont have a picture to go by...good luck...I'm glad you posted as this is one of the mods I have been thinking about, but I dont want to be having oil leak issues!!!!
Click to expand...

Electrical and plumbing fittings are different in that electrical threads remain the same and plumbing threads change and tighten to seal. But a good sealant should take care of it.
 
DO NOT USE BRAKE OR CARB CLEANER!!!!!!!!!!! Unless it is actual glass. If it is plexiglass or lexan, the chemicals "eat" into it, making it look hazey. Don't ask me how I know. :whistle:
 
go down to your local auto parts store.. buy a tube of "Ultra Black"

disassemble the unit entirely and make sure it is spotless clean (any oil reside will probably foul the repair, soap and water are fine, there are brakecleans that are fine but you need to know which is which.. stick to the soap and water)

on the housing put a nice bead of the Ultra Black on the housing, lay the lexan down, and then the cover.. put a small amount of the Ultra black on the screw threads as well..

assemble and allow to set for 24 hours.. should be just fine..

DO NOT USE regular gaset silicone, the stuff is destroyed by oil.. The ultra black is a different compound and will stand up to the oil.. (but will melt if not allowed to fully cure before use)

if you give up, ship me the cover and I will fix it for you..
 
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Mr Bogus said:
go down to your local auto parts store.. buy a tube of "Ultra Black"

disassemble the unit entirely and make sure it is spotless clean (any oil reside will probably foul the repair, soap and water are fine, there are brakecleans that are fine but you need to know which is which.. stick to the soap and water)

on the housing put a nice bead of the Ultra Black on the housing, lay the lexan down, and then the cover.. put a small amount of the Ultra black on the screw threads as well..

assemble and allow to set for 24 hours.. should be just fine..

DO NOT USE regular gaset silicone, the stuff is destroyed by oil.. The ultra black is a different compound and will stand up to the oil.. (but will melt if not allowed to fully cure before use)

if you give up, ship me the cover and I will fix it for you..
Click to expand...

Is this what you're referring to, Mr Bogus?

Ultra Black
 
Yep.. the key to the stuff is to let it cure for 24 hours.. it is thermally sensitive and will quite literally "melt" out.. (GM developed this sealant as GMS) as soon as you have the unit reassembled.. clean off the excess in the "visible" areas..

do not worry about the spots you can not see, the stuff will stay put..
 
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